Middle Teton Climber's Log

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Alcas24

Alcas24 - Oct 25, 2005 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2005

Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: July 18, 2005  Sucess!

Solo climbed standard route, about 5 hours to summit from trailhead. Ice axe was helpful but not required. Fun climb, probably my favorite to date. Amazing views from the summit.

asmrz

asmrz - Oct 23, 2005 5:07 pm

Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: August 20, 2005?  Sucess!

Penelope May and I hiked up the SW Couloir from our car, parked at Lupine Meadows. I took us a little over 11 hours RT. Found a lot of boulder and talus hopping, large ammounts of scree to cross and fairly long distance to the summit. But the views along the way were wonderful.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:19 pm

Route Climbed: Chounard Ridge Date Climbed: July '04  Sucess!

Fun climb. Only a few pitches worth of roped climbing. Pretty laidback route.

tdoughty

tdoughty - Sep 4, 2005 9:37 pm

Route Climbed: Glacier Date Climbed: August 1985  Sucess!

With James Barnett. Nice ice in upper reaches. Interesting route finding on the descent.

mountainTRIALS.com

mountainTRIALS.com - Jul 26, 2005 1:17 pm

Route Climbed: Southwest Coulior Date Climbed: July 23, 2005  Sucess!

Time from Lupine trailhead to summit marker = 2:45:08 hrs. Straight forward. A tiny bit of ice and snow in the coulior, but not bad. Perfect weather! Fun! Headed up the South after summitting the Middle. Saw one bear on descent.

dukehiker - Jul 21, 2005 8:17 am

Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: July 19, 2005  Sucess!

Camped overnight in a beautiful grassy spot high in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. Route to the summit from there was a mix of snow and rock which was a little edgy for this 50+ eastern hiker, but ultimately doable.

althegreek

althegreek - Jul 12, 2005 7:07 pm

Route Climbed: glacier Date Climbed: may 2003  Sucess!

nice and straightforward. uncrowded in early season, made for a nice climb. deep snow though. shouldve brought the skis.

Joseph Bullough

Joseph Bullough - Jun 21, 2005 5:12 pm

Route Climbed: Glacier Route Date Climbed: June 18, 2005  Sucess!

Summited via the Middle Teton Glacier route. Lots of snow for mid-June, so we were able to crampon all the way to the summit. Just under 11 hours R/T from Lupine Meadows. Excellent route.

mountaingazelle

mountaingazelle - May 1, 2005 7:21 pm

Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: July 25, 1995, Aug 1, 1998, July 21, 2001  Sucess!

I never get tired of climbing this mountain. It's a great climb with a awesome view of the Grand. First time there the couloir was icy and filled with snow. It was a challenge to climb. Second time we had white-out conditions on the summit. Third time we had perfect weather and climbed it with the South Teton in one day.

dunsum

dunsum - Apr 7, 2005 4:33 am

Route Climbed: several Date Climbed: July '97  Sucess!

Northwest Ice Couloir, 8/2/97

Southeast Ridge, 6/12/99

North Ridge (solo), 8/27/00

Chouinard Ridge, 8/10/03

Glacier Route, 6/18/05

mr kieran - Mar 19, 2005 6:09 pm

Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: September 2003  Sucess!

Climbed solo. Technically an easy climb, but physically very challenging as a day hike. An an incredible view from the top, and an incredible experience all around.

Andinistaloco

Andinistaloco - Sep 7, 2004 12:07 am

Route Climbed: Glacier route Date Climbed: fall 2003  Sucess!

This was a good climb - although it might've been better if we'd made a high camp instead of doing car-to-car. The glacier's a lot of fun - a few pitches of snow and ice that aren't too steep. Above the rock work is mid 5th class at the hardest if you're on route. Meaning, if it's harder, you're off route!

I think this one would be better earlier on in the season, when the upper portion of the route is covered with snow or ice - the mixed climbing sucked some serious time out of our schedule and we ended up stomping out in the dark. Luckily the Village Inn in Jackson was still open for an 11pm grease-fest....



sskeep

sskeep - Aug 24, 2004 10:47 pm

Route Climbed: Middle Teton Date Climbed: August 20, 2003  Sucess!

Stayed at the Platforms. Not as high on the mountain as others but a nice place to stay. Usual crew, Scott, Steve Pat and me. Great day, great mountain, great friends. Nuff said.

Scott Pierce

Scott Pierce - Jun 29, 2004 8:41 pm

Route Climbed: South West Couloir Date Climbed: August, 1982, August, 1983  Sucess!

I used to be a camp counselor at a Boy Scout Camp on the west side of the Tetons. Each year, at the end of the season, we counselors would hike the Middle Teton. We'd leave our musty tents in Teton Canyon in the middle of the night, cram into a junker van and a couple of station wagons, and depart Lupine Meadows well before dawn. We knew we had to be on the summit and down before the afternoon thunderheads rolled in from the Idaho desert.



No ropes, no helmets, no ice axes. Just hiking boots, shorts, a water bottle and a cheese sandwich, and the fitness that came from the preceding weeks of hiking, backpacking, swimming and running. The snow was always just right to kick steps in on the way up, and soft enough to safely glissade while going down.



I remember downclimbing from the summit on easy 3d class past a couple of guys, all decked out in brand new, bright blue matching shells and pants, with "The North Face" plastered across their chests. They were rappelling, and their faces bore the serious look of hard men doing man's work in a dangerous, manly environment. Their expressions changed to one best described as "mightily annoyed" as the Boy Scouts tripped past, intent on getting down to the thousands of feet of fabulously fun boot-and-butt sliding on the early afternoon snow, on a late summer day in the Tetons.









Bootboy

Bootboy - May 29, 2004 2:45 am

Route Climbed: SW couloir Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!

Did the Middle and the South in one day in about 11 hours. Good weather and tons of snow. From the meadows we used our axes about 2/3rds of the way up. All the snow made for a fast descent

bteddy - Apr 19, 2004 11:53 pm

Route Climbed: SW couloir Date Climbed: july '03  Sucess!

Climbed in conjunction with S. Teton in about 12 hours total

TDRoberts

TDRoberts - Oct 20, 2003 9:30 am

Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 04 '03  Sucess!

Fun climb - except for the weather. Forecast called for mostly sunny skies with chance of late afternoon thunderstorms (sound familiar?). Awoke at camp in Meadows with very overcast skies. Climbed with on-again, off-again showers, wind, and a little sleet. Didn't spend much time on summit as weather continued to deteriorate and it was appearent the afternoon thunder would soon begin.

Hendere

Hendere - Sep 8, 2003 6:16 pm

Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 2003  Sucess!

Had a great time climbing with Alan Ellis and Iceaxeman. Perfect weather and rock. Only downside was a few REAL MOUNTAINEERS (I know they were real because they told me) sending rocks down the couloir towards us.

Jerry L

Jerry L - Sep 8, 2003 4:35 pm

Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 2003  Sucess!

Awesome.

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Sep 6, 2003 10:12 am

Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 2003  Sucess!

This climb is an absolute joy! After a long approach, the couloir itself is wonderful. With mostly 3rd class scrambling, and a few class 4 moves, it's a blast.



The best part of my day was the birthday party on the summit. Jerry (Iceaxeman) turned 50 on our summit day. Eric (hendere) burned a match in a Clif Bar for a cake and gave him an old 'biner for a gift. We all sang "Happy Birthday" and enjoyed the summit with perfect weather and no wind. Thanks to Eric and Jerry for making this one of the highlights of my trip.



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