Eric Sandbo - Aug 12, 2005 2:47 am - Voted 10/10
wow.I wonder if this is the aid pitch Beckey described. He mentioned a pitch with four A1 placements. Derek & I climbed deep in the chimney just right of here, and it was easier, but crumbly at first.
rpc - Aug 12, 2005 1:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: wow.Thanks Eric!
Yeah we saw the chimney you mention about 30 feet above this crack (there's a link in a couple of my captions to a photo on cc.com that shows both this crack and the chimney you mention). Aiding the crack would indeed be C1 today (w/o cams Beckey might have to use a hammer). Rock Climbing WA book by J. Smoot refers to this crack as being 10b. I didn't think it was that stiff but it's highly dependent on the person's hand size (my wife had a harder time wtih the upper portion of this rack above roof due to wideness).
I will try to type up a route/variation description and send it to you in the next couple days.
radek
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