Mont Blanc Climber's Log

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zplustwo

zplustwo - Aug 17, 2009 3:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009

Success  Sucess!

Met Adam and Graham via a SummitPost forum and climbed this mountain just last week. We hiked from the Valley to Eagle's Nest, then to Toute Rousse, then a big push up to the summit and back down to the train. Also joining us was Lord James, of Her Majesty's Royal Army. Awesome trip folks =)

secander

secander - Aug 15, 2009 5:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009

Goûter Route  Sucess!

Afternoon tram to Nid d'Aiguile. Climbed to Goûter Refuge, arriving at 20:30. Woke up at 2:00 and reached summit by 8:00. Back at to Goûter Refuge by 11:00. Left Goûter Refuge by 12:00 and back at Nid d'Aguile by 15:00. Our inability to sleep on the floor (I forgot my sleeping mat and the room was quite noisy) of the Goûter hut meant that we were really tired on the summit day and our rate of ascent was much slower than we could have otherwise maintained. Other than that, however, the whole trip was remarkably uneventful and the weather was perfect.

Ario

Ario - Aug 13, 2009 3:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2002

UCPA  Sucess!

crawled to the top behind our running guide / instructor in >20 cm of fresh snow...

mvs

mvs - Aug 11, 2009 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

Route climbed: Innominata Ridge  Sucess!

Dan P. and I enjoyed a great climb in perfect weather. Monday afternoon late, hike to Monzino Hut. Tuesday morning to Eccles Bivouac. Wednesday up the route to the summit, reached very late (sunset!). Hiked down to a cold bivy on the Brenva Col. Thursday, leisurely descent to Aiguille di Midi.

John Climber

John Climber - Aug 8, 2009 10:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009

Once in a life perfect conditions  Sucess!

A party of three men (me Antonio and Juan Carlos)departed from Gouter Hut at 04:00 am and arrived to the top around 9:15 am.
Climbed with full moon. Once the daylight came there was a perfect clear blue sky and no wind at all during the whole ascent (and descent). We met a lot of people at the top. Even a guy was bringing a electronic keyboard and he was giving a fine concert (singing and playing) from the very top of the Alps. Unrepeatable!!

Mile Bosnjakovski

Mile Bosnjakovski - Aug 4, 2009 5:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2008

Gouter route

We climb until Vallot Hut where it was not posibale to due to the bad weather. But it was good climb at least.

radson

radson - Aug 2, 2009 8:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Fairly long Day  Sucess!

We left Tete-Rous and then descended to the train, so a fairly long 15 hour day. Weather was perfect.

LT89

LT89 - Jun 27, 2009 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2009

Trois Monts route, solo  Sucess!

I went up the Aiguille du Midi on wednesday the 20th and climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul for acclimatisation and then stayed at the Cosmique hut for the night. The next morning, on thursday the 21st I left for my summit attempt, I climbed the Mont Blanc du Tacul first, and after summitting I climbed Mont Maudit, and after summitting I climbed on to the col de la Brenva and Mur de la Cote and eventually summitted Mont Blanc. I took the same route back, and stayed a final night at the Cosmique hut and went back down to the valley the next morning, on friday the 22nd, via the Aiguille du Midi.

ArankaP

ArankaP - Mar 4, 2009 3:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007

Fresh snow and lots of people  Sucess!

After waiting several day on good weather reached summit at 9:30 a.m. via Refuge du Gouter.

damgaard

damgaard - Feb 26, 2009 2:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

long day  Sucess!

Started from Aiguille du Midi at 2100 hours. Climbed half way up Tacul, but then had to return since a climber got ill. Restarted at 2330. Reached the top around 7. Returned to Aiguille du Midi. Totally crowded on the way back and we had to wait more than an hour getting down Mt. Maudit. Back at Midi around 14. Dead tired but great trip!

gusia

gusia - Jan 27, 2009 9:47 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2007

Gouter Route  Sucess!

Strong wind, mist and cold, but it was worth, anyway. I would do that again.;-)

Alexandros

Alexandros - Sep 18, 2008 12:16 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008

Solo.

Climbed up to gouter hut on 14/9 but on 15/9 the weather was to bad for a summit attempt and due to lack of time I had to turn back.

Tuomo

Tuomo - Sep 11, 2008 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2008

3 Monts route  Sucess!

Via Three Monts route. Really nice views and a long and tough day to the summit after 3 nights sleep at the glacier.

klwagar

klwagar - Aug 29, 2008 10:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008

beautiful day  Sucess!

via the 3 monts route. took the first cable car in the am and the last down (weather coming in)the same day. A huge effort but a beautiful peak.

ivarth

ivarth - Aug 28, 2008 5:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2008

Mont Blanc traverse  Sucess!

Went with a group of 14 Icelanders. After acclimatisation trips on La Tresenta and Grand Paradiso in Italy we went back to France and arrived at the Cosmiques hut around 5pm on July 16th.

After trying to sleep from 9pm-01am we got up, ate "breakfast" in a hurry (dry bread with jam + tea) we were ready go to at 1:30am.
The trip started in good weather, light wind and we could see the stars. Going up du Tacul was wonderful, you could see the stream of headlights coming from the hut and snaking slowly up the mountain. After walking beneath big seracs we finally cleared Mont Blanc du Tacul on were on our way to Mont Maudit.

We went up Mont Maudit, our guide sped up and fixed a rope for us to ascend with. I was completely breathless when I sat on the crest of Mont Maudit after negotiating the steep slope. Our guide was for some reason in such a hurry that we were pretty tired at that point. On the crest we found a large piece of human excrement, don't know why people don't bother to at least bury the damn thing.

Then it was onto the final slope. It was deceptively long and the wind was pretty strong at this point and snow blowing all over the place. The guides were actually thinking about turning back at this point, but our group leader chose rightly to go on.

We summited Mont Blanc before 9am. Just had time to enjoy the view for a short while because our guide was anxious to get down quickly because the weather was turning. We got less then 10 minutes on top and there were only 6 people on the summit when we got there. The view was beautiful but I did not feel any joy at that moment because of how tired I was. Fortunately I did not experience any sort of high altitude sickness.

We went down the beginning of the Gouter route and stopped for half an hour or so in the Ref. Vallot bivyhut. By the time we started descending the Grands Mulets route we were completely engulfed in clouds and it was impossible to see where the snow ended and the clouds started. It took a long time to descend the Grands Mulets route because of crevasses. It was also a difficult descent because the snow was very soft and we sank up to our knees and thighs in every step.
We stopped for a short while in the Grands Mulets hut. I climbed up the rock to the hut to buy something to drink.

Short while later we continued the descent and finally arrived to the Plan de l'Aguille cable car station in thick fog and rain just before 5pm.

The group was extremely happy, 12 of us made the summit. Two of the group turned around on Mont Maudit and went back to the Cosmiques hut.

Great experience, I would like to go there again someday so I can spend more time on the summit. :)

You can see pictures from the whole trip here:
http://5tindar.is/myndir/thumbnails.php?album=75
It includes La Tresenta and Grand Paradiso in Italy.

JackCarr

JackCarr - Aug 28, 2008 3:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2008

Gouter Route  Sucess!

From Tete Rouse, to the summit, back down to Chamonix in one long, exhausting, 14 hour day. Worth it though.

pascalrechatin

pascalrechatin - Aug 22, 2008 2:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008

Up from 'Trois Mont Blanc' Down by 'Aiguille du Gouter'  Sucess!

7 of our party of 8 to the top. Claire Rechatin, Delphine Renaudin, Paul Rechatin, Pierre Rechatin, Alexandre Bolze, Ivan Renaudin, Pascal Rechatin.Perfect conditions we stayed a long time on the top to enjoy !. A dream of a descent on the Arete des bosses overall surprisingly uncrowded for a August day.
One mountain sick stayed at the Refuge des Cosmiques this will be for next time for Thomas.

This was the first time for Delphine, Ivan, Pierre, Paul and Alexandre, second time for Claire and 12th time for me.I Had not been there for several years.

The Refuge des Cosmiques is really very nice and people extremely welcoming and professional...what a difference with several other huts in the Mt Blanc massif on the french side!

This year (2008) there were pretty dangerous crevasses on the Mt Blanc du Tacul climb. Really requires attention especially by night.

The Mont Maudit Bergshrund/rimaye couloir is the only place where we found some ice, rest of the route was in perfectly good snow. Two fixed ropes have been left in place by mountain guides there which is quite convenient.

Very good conditions on the arete des bosses and all the way down to the Aiguille du Gouter with very few crevasses.

The face and couloir de l'Aiguille du Gouter are becoming more and more dangerous...Helmet highly recommended there are really bad rock falls which are not anymore just started by careless climbers near the Refuge de l'Aiguille du Gouter but are initiated it seems as a result of accelerated warming of the mountain. It is advisable to stay on the slightly protruding rocky ridge in the middle of the face as opposed to going to the right or to the left despite several well marked trails as the sides are much more exposed to rock falls.

thegoldengriff

thegoldengriff - Aug 14, 2008 12:43 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008

3rd time's a charm  Sucess!

Summited via the Gouter route. Left at midnight and was able to see the sun rise on the summit. beautiful!

Dziku

Dziku - Jul 31, 2008 9:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2008

Via Gouter route  Sucess!

Great weather, beautiful views. My first 4000 peak :)

codelancer

codelancer - May 15, 2008 4:33 pm Date Climbed: Apr 30, 2008

Mont Blanc Traverse

I was trying 3Mounts route at end of April 2008, from Cosmiques Hut. Very strong wind at 4000m, lot of snow and avalanches from Tacul. So, we (i and my friend) was reached only 3800-3900 on Tacul face in one sunshine day (29 April) and was planning another attempt at 30th April, but again - bad weather, bad weather. No success.
I'll try again next time :)
I vs MontBlanc 1:1

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