Initially planned as a three persons effort, one got sick on the shoulder of Tacul (minor HACE) and we had to take her back to the Cosmiques hut. The other teammate stayed with her and I restarted alone. Slow progress and somewhat scary ice on the col du mont maudit, but finally summited at 11:20, completely alone.
Descent via the goûter, I barely caught the last TMB down after a 16h day.
A great day out.
Perfect weather , not too crowded either. Descended the same route.
After leaving my brother Gabriel in Geneve airport, in the way back to Chamonix, I decided to try Mont Blanc in "solo". I called the Gouter Hut to see if there was room and they confirmed there was. I arrived in the "nid d'aigle" at 2h30pm and reached Tete Rousse hut at 4pm and Gouter hut at 6pm on Aug. 20. Then departed for the adventure at 2h30am reaching summit at 6h30am with strong wind, cloudy and bloody cold. I was back in "nid d'aigle" train at 11h30am... A very thrilling experience, some tears in the summit and my 1rst Solo alpine climb.
Take a look to this trip report and let me know your comments
Met Adam and Graham via a SummitPost forum and climbed this mountain just last week. We hiked from the Valley to Eagle's Nest, then to Toute Rousse, then a big push up to the summit and back down to the train. Also joining us was Lord James, of Her Majesty's Royal Army. Awesome trip folks =)
Afternoon tram to Nid d'Aiguile. Climbed to Goûter Refuge, arriving at 20:30. Woke up at 2:00 and reached summit by 8:00. Back at to Goûter Refuge by 11:00. Left Goûter Refuge by 12:00 and back at Nid d'Aguile by 15:00. Our inability to sleep on the floor (I forgot my sleeping mat and the room was quite noisy) of the Goûter hut meant that we were really tired on the summit day and our rate of ascent was much slower than we could have otherwise maintained. Other than that, however, the whole trip was remarkably uneventful and the weather was perfect.
crawled to the top behind our running guide / instructor in >20 cm of fresh snow...
Dan P. and I enjoyed a great climb in perfect weather. Monday afternoon late, hike to Monzino Hut. Tuesday morning to Eccles Bivouac. Wednesday up the route to the summit, reached very late (sunset!). Hiked down to a cold bivy on the Brenva Col. Thursday, leisurely descent to Aiguille di Midi.
A party of three men (me Antonio and Juan Carlos)departed from Gouter Hut at 04:00 am and arrived to the top around 9:15 am.
Climbed with full moon. Once the daylight came there was a perfect clear blue sky and no wind at all during the whole ascent (and descent). We met a lot of people at the top. Even a guy was bringing a electronic keyboard and he was giving a fine concert (singing and playing) from the very top of the Alps. Unrepeatable!!
We climb until Vallot Hut where it was not posibale to due to the bad weather. But it was good climb at least.
We left Tete-Rous and then descended to the train, so a fairly long 15 hour day. Weather was perfect.
I went up the Aiguille du Midi on wednesday the 20th and climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul for acclimatisation and then stayed at the Cosmique hut for the night. The next morning, on thursday the 21st I left for my summit attempt, I climbed the Mont Blanc du Tacul first, and after summitting I climbed Mont Maudit, and after summitting I climbed on to the col de la Brenva and Mur de la Cote and eventually summitted Mont Blanc. I took the same route back, and stayed a final night at the Cosmique hut and went back down to the valley the next morning, on friday the 22nd, via the Aiguille du Midi.
After waiting several day on good weather reached summit at 9:30 a.m. via Refuge du Gouter.
Started from Aiguille du Midi at 2100 hours. Climbed half way up Tacul, but then had to return since a climber got ill. Restarted at 2330. Reached the top around 7. Returned to Aiguille du Midi. Totally crowded on the way back and we had to wait more than an hour getting down Mt. Maudit. Back at Midi around 14. Dead tired but great trip!
Strong wind, mist and cold, but it was worth, anyway. I would do that again.;-)
Climbed up to gouter hut on 14/9 but on 15/9 the weather was to bad for a summit attempt and due to lack of time I had to turn back.
Via Three Monts route. Really nice views and a long and tough day to the summit after 3 nights sleep at the glacier.
via the 3 monts route. took the first cable car in the am and the last down (weather coming in)the same day. A huge effort but a beautiful peak.
Went with a group of 14 Icelanders. After acclimatisation trips on La Tresenta and Grand Paradiso in Italy we went back to France and arrived at the Cosmiques hut around 5pm on July 16th.
After trying to sleep from 9pm-01am we got up, ate "breakfast" in a hurry (dry bread with jam + tea) we were ready go to at 1:30am.
The trip started in good weather, light wind and we could see the stars. Going up du Tacul was wonderful, you could see the stream of headlights coming from the hut and snaking slowly up the mountain. After walking beneath big seracs we finally cleared Mont Blanc du Tacul on were on our way to Mont Maudit.
We went up Mont Maudit, our guide sped up and fixed a rope for us to ascend with. I was completely breathless when I sat on the crest of Mont Maudit after negotiating the steep slope. Our guide was for some reason in such a hurry that we were pretty tired at that point. On the crest we found a large piece of human excrement, don't know why people don't bother to at least bury the damn thing.
Then it was onto the final slope. It was deceptively long and the wind was pretty strong at this point and snow blowing all over the place. The guides were actually thinking about turning back at this point, but our group leader chose rightly to go on.
We summited Mont Blanc before 9am. Just had time to enjoy the view for a short while because our guide was anxious to get down quickly because the weather was turning. We got less then 10 minutes on top and there were only 6 people on the summit when we got there. The view was beautiful but I did not feel any joy at that moment because of how tired I was. Fortunately I did not experience any sort of high altitude sickness.
We went down the beginning of the Gouter route and stopped for half an hour or so in the Ref. Vallot bivyhut. By the time we started descending the Grands Mulets route we were completely engulfed in clouds and it was impossible to see where the snow ended and the clouds started. It took a long time to descend the Grands Mulets route because of crevasses. It was also a difficult descent because the snow was very soft and we sank up to our knees and thighs in every step.
We stopped for a short while in the Grands Mulets hut. I climbed up the rock to the hut to buy something to drink.
Short while later we continued the descent and finally arrived to the Plan de l'Aguille cable car station in thick fog and rain just before 5pm.
The group was extremely happy, 12 of us made the summit. Two of the group turned around on Mont Maudit and went back to the Cosmiques hut.
Great experience, I would like to go there again someday so I can spend more time on the summit. :)
You can see pictures from the whole trip here:
It includes La Tresenta and Grand Paradiso in Italy.
From Tete Rouse, to the summit, back down to Chamonix in one long, exhausting, 14 hour day. Worth it though.
7 of our party of 8 to the top. Claire Rechatin, Delphine Renaudin, Paul Rechatin, Pierre Rechatin, Alexandre Bolze, Ivan Renaudin, Pascal Rechatin.Perfect conditions we stayed a long time on the top to enjoy !. A dream of a descent on the Arete des bosses overall surprisingly uncrowded for a August day.
One mountain sick stayed at the Refuge des Cosmiques this will be for next time for Thomas.
This was the first time for Delphine, Ivan, Pierre, Paul and Alexandre, second time for Claire and 12th time for me.I Had not been there for several years.
The Refuge des Cosmiques is really very nice and people extremely welcoming and professional...what a difference with several other huts in the Mt Blanc massif on the french side!
This year (2008) there were pretty dangerous crevasses on the Mt Blanc du Tacul climb. Really requires attention especially by night.
The Mont Maudit Bergshrund/rimaye couloir is the only place where we found some ice, rest of the route was in perfectly good snow. Two fixed ropes have been left in place by mountain guides there which is quite convenient.
Very good conditions on the arete des bosses and all the way down to the Aiguille du Gouter with very few crevasses.
The face and couloir de l'Aiguille du Gouter are becoming more and more dangerous...Helmet highly recommended there are really bad rock falls which are not anymore just started by careless climbers near the Refuge de l'Aiguille du Gouter but are initiated it seems as a result of accelerated warming of the mountain. It is advisable to stay on the slightly protruding rocky ridge in the middle of the face as opposed to going to the right or to the left despite several well marked trails as the sides are much more exposed to rock falls.