Mont Pelvoux Climber's Log

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Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Feb 4, 2021 6:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2018

North ridge (1100 m, IV 5+ D+)  Sucess!

Long route, routefinding in the upper part is not so easy.

Bart

Bart - Aug 23, 2012 3:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2012

Petit Pelvoux > Violettes Glacier  Sucess!

South ridge of the Petit Pelvoux is a fun outing, graded D just like the nearby Sialouze traverse but quite a bit more 'alpine' in setting and feeling. Descent by Violettes Glacier is pretty but very long.

Flachlandtiroler - Dec 15, 2011 8:40 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

Couloir Coolidge  Sucess!

Pointe Puiseux via Couloir Coolidge. Good conditions, few people.

[X] Bird

[X] Bird - Jan 13, 2011 10:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2010

Route: Pelvoux traverse  Sucess!

This was the best trip I made the past summer. The weather was splendid, the food at the hut was superb and we met some really nice Austrian people on the way down. And the scenery is realy one of a kind.

The climb itself is great. First up the Coolidge couloir and down the Violettes glacier. On the way down you have to take care of a couple of abseils in loose rock with other parties above and below.

Probemeister - Oct 6, 2008 8:14 am

Traverse  Sucess!

We went up via the Coolidge Couloir and down the Violettes Glacier, a long and tiring but technically easy trip.

Thomas Gurviez

Thomas Gurviez - Sep 3, 2008 2:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008

pelvoux traverse  Sucess!

beautiful ascent, but very very long descent with a lot of rappels

Modi

Modi - Mar 2, 2008 7:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1991

Normal Route  Sucess!

From Pelvoux Hu; Descent from Violettes glacier.

Whitesail

Whitesail - Apr 9, 2007 7:21 pm

Couloir Coolidge > Glacier des Violettes  Sucess!

One of my first proper climbs. Had a great time and so I repeated it a few years later.

Andino

Andino - Jul 31, 2006 1:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2004

Couloir Coolidge > Glacier des Violettes  Sucess!

Difficulty : PD

We started at 4am. We went along easy rocks first, then walked up to the botton of Couloir Coolidge. The snow was in good condition, it was then easy to climb up the long slope.
We ended on the ridge that led us to the summit.

Beautiful 360° landscape. Big bright sun.
The way down is even more beautiful as you go across the Glacier des Violettes. Unfortunately, one of us broke her ankle, jumping above a crevasse. After the helicopter picked up her, a very long descent was ahead of us (be careful not to get lot, the path is not always obvious or marked by cairns).

We ended in Ailefroide at 8pm.
Long but amazing day.
A great experience in one of the greatest alpine area of France : Les Ecrins

jvdm

jvdm - May 1, 2006 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2003

Pelvoux traverse with summit bivouac

Mont Pelvoux is a mountain with four summits. Between the highest two, Pointe Puiseux en Pointe Durand there is a saddle. It provides just enough flat space for two or three small tents. It is in the centre of a fantastic high mountain atmosphere at an altitude of about 3900m, just below both summits.
The bad thing is that the place is terribly exposed. The wind can be incredible strong, as we found out as soon as the thunderstorm hit. It was like a freight train rolling over the bivouac. We survived
www.mountainpassion.net

Louis - Jun 22, 2005 12:41 pm

Route Climbed: Via Mettrier Couloir Date Climbed: June 2005  Sucess!

The Mettrier Couloir- A superb AD route to the summit, avoiding the crowds on the coolidge couloir. Would not like to do it late season though.

Claude Mauguier - May 17, 2005 8:42 am

Route Climbed: Coolidge couloir Date Climbed: june 1st 1990  Sucess!

We were only 4 the previous evening, in that Pelvoux hut, where only the winter rooms were opened. Started at 4 am, back to hut at 9.45. Excellent conditions, the mountain was excessively dry for the period that year : good and quick ascent along Coolidge couloir, covered glacier on the final ice cap. Back along the same way. Then a nice lazy afternoon, reading, taking pictures and playing with hungry marmots...Decided to spend another night in that now deserted hut.

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