Soloed and simul-climbed to the first tower, then did the rest in 6 pitches with a 50m rope. Trip report.
We hiked to the base of the climb the day before and stashed our climbing gear. When we arrived the morning of the sixth, we found rockfall hit my helmet and crushed it. After climbing about 500 feet, we roped up and continued to the summit. I found the Contact Pass descent to be the most challenging part of the day. There was tons of loose rock and boulders the size of VW vans that would shift when you stepped on them. It was crazy.
A really long day but well worth it. Great climb.
Original plan was Temple/Galey/Sill but once we summited Temple the winds picked up. Soloing Galey is sketchy enough without gusts so we bailed.
Unwilling to slog in to do T-bolt to Sill so sadly doing laps on Temple.
Climbed with Justing on a perfect summer day. Left camp at Third Lake at 5:30am-ish, simulclimbed first 4 pitches or so. I led the Tower Traverse and both 5.8 pitches on the Ibrium. We mostly swapped from there. Some loose stuff on supertopo pitch 11 (5.6 "gully"), but a lot of fun nonetheless.
After 15 pitches, the trudge to the summit and back down to Contact Pass seemed to take forever .. rapped off around dusk. Happy for the light of the Moon Goddess as we stumbled back into camp @ 10:30pm !
Climbed with Crit. Very enjoyable and long. A lot of snow at the base made for an interesting approach and the river crossing was quite the obstacle. Very nice summit.
Still a fun solo. Didn't seen another person all day on any of the routes.
Soloed to the first tower and climbed the rest of the route in 6 pitches. Lower half of route is quite solid, but upper half is quite loose as advertised. Brilliant exposure on upper arete above Ibrium tower.
Full day, completed route, but did not summit due to darkness
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the Moon Goddess Arete in full winter conditions on March 19, 2010. Because the initial traverse and the rib above were mixed snow and ice, we had to belay all the pitches to the 1st Tower as well as the more technical terrain above: all in all, some 21 pitches. The weather was nasty, a strong wind tested our resolve all the way. This was the coldest winter climb I have ever done in the Sierra. It took us 26 hours RT to/from our tent at Third Lake.
Sunny August Saturday on Temple Crag with my mp3 player. Only one other 2-person party on Dark Star (?). Maybe the weather predictions of summit temp highs in the 40s kept people away (more like 60s fortunately for me). Much more entertaining than Venusian. Just under 11 hours car-to-car.
climbed with partner tyler 3 months after my tonsil surgery. camped at 3rd lake. used sharp rocks to chop steps on hard snow at base. tyler led majority of route. beautiful weekend, no crowds. only party that day was 3 guys headed for base of Dark Star.
We simul-climbed the lower section, and got off route doing the traverse from the tower. We had camped at third lake, and hiked out after the climb. It was a perfect day of climbing.
Long ass day with Brad. 19 hrs car-to car. I agree with 'sampage' below. Hardest move is the 5.7+ offwidth near the top (P14 on supertopo).
Did this in a day from the road with John Rehyer back in the late '80s or early '90s. A most excellent adventure. We just had a general route description from the Roper guide and ended up climbing it at 5.9+. I later made a topo of this for an article in Rock & Ice that looks like it later became the basis for the Supertopo version (with the exception of our off route 5.9 sections). The crux was hiking out in the dark from Third Lake after our headlamps pooped out.
my bighornmonkey :)
Did this route with Shirley Lam, Simul-climbed the first 4-5 pitches.
Beautiful route with fun simul-climbing sections. Made for a long day in cotton pants going down Contact Pass in the snow back to camp though!
I climbed this route with Steve Aho, Jack Cronk, and Jan Lorenzen over three days in May 2001. Because of the spring conditions, I carried mountain boots, crampons, and an ice axe on the route, which made the climbing somewhat strenuous. For me, the crux was the 5.8 offwidth near the end of the climb. A great alpine outing in the Sierras.