Morro dos Cabritos

Overview

Morro dos Cabritos ( Little Goat Mountain ) is a great mountain ( 1796m ) with big walls, very smooth and has hard routes to climb. The mountain is inside Tres Picos Group – Serra dos Órgãos – Rio de Janeiro. Formed in Pre Cambrian Era, is a remanescent of the highest range in the ancient world, Brazilian Sea Range, reaching 13000m ( 39,400 feet ). From Frades Valley, Morro dos Cabritos is an imponent mountain close to Tres Picos, Pedra D’Anta, Branca de Neve Peak and Fonsecas Mountains. “Every boy dreams to climb this peak some day here” – Salinas Climber’s Proverb. Looking to the East, as possible to see the majestic formation of the great Tres Picos; Looking to North, Fonsecas Mountains and Frades Valley; Looking to South, Mulher de Pedra Mountains and, to West, Rio de Janeiro backcountry. The hard routes to climb Cabritos localizes in the West-North edges.

Getting There

Morro dos Cabritos is localized in Teresópolis Town, 130 km from Rio de Janeiro. The best way to access this mountain is: By Car: Drive to BR-040 ( to North ); Plates indicates the entrance to BR-116 to Teresópolis; Arriving in Teresópolis, continues on this road till the entrance to RJ-122 to Nova Friburgo Town ( Circuito TereFri ); At km 30, turns to right to Frades Valley, taking a land road to the base of the mountain. By Bus: From Rio de Janeiro Terminal Bus, take the line bus to Teresópolis ( ViaçãoTeresópolis ) and when arrives there, take another bus line to Vieira or Bonsucesso district and, start walking from the road, ever seeing the great West edge of Morro dos Cabritos. It’s very easy to go there and, you could ask to everyone in Teresópolis how to get there.

The imponent Morro dos Cabritos from Pico Médio.

Red Tape

No fees or taxes to climb Morro dos Cabritos. Please, call the owner of the farm in the base of Morro dos Cabritos and, tell him that you desire to climb the mountain.

Camping

There aren’t official places to camp, but is possible to bivy in the base of the mountain. There are hotels in RJ-122 ( TerFri Road ) only 25 km of distance.

Best Season

The best season to climb or visit this natural monument is April to September, winter season. The best period to climb the great walls is at early morning, because the Sun shines at evening and, the rock turns very hot.

Routes to Climb

There are around of 20 routes to climb, varying from easy to hard routes. Most important routes in Morro dos Cabritos: Cabritos North Face 7º VIIb A1 E2 / 5.11a Protection: bolts, big cams(1 camalot # 5) Description: very long also, two piches of A1 Route by: André Ilha, Flávio Wasniewski, Guilherme Conde and Paulo Chaves-2001. Fenda Ardente Route 4º VI Route by: Marcelo Kallman and Maicon Lisboa - 1994. Mário Arnaud Route 5º VI A0 E1 Route by: Mario Luiz Rodrigues Arnaud, Oswaldo Pereira and friends – year ?? O Céu é o Limite 7º VIIb E2/ 5.11b Protection: Bolts, cams, trican Description: long, hard, sunny....need to tell more? Route by: Antonio Paulo de Faria e Daniel Guimarães – year ??

Weather

Current weather and forecast to Teresópolis