Mount Abbot Climber's Log

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Climber Dave

Climber Dave - Dec 21, 2006 12:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2006

NE Couloir route  Sucess!

Stayed overnite at Treasure Lakes, good snow, fun climb. Was also expecting a bit more exposure on the knife edge ridge. Overall great climb, beautiful day with great sierra views!!


physics - Sep 22, 2006 2:17 am Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006

Route Climbed: North Couloir direct Date Climbed: Sept 16, 2006  Sucess!

climbed again with SPers oldmanmike, ChuckO, and Chuck's buddy Ken. Part way up the couloir, the three headed for the sandy ledges; I continued with my tools to the top of the couloir passing over some formed water ice and then up the rocky chimney. took my crampons off on a very small 1ft by 1ft ledge (should have kept them on and climbed the rock with them). remet the boys and summited with Ken. good climb


ChuckO - Sep 18, 2006 7:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006

NE Couloir  Sucess!

Great climb. Wonderful leasurely summit rest due to terrific "Indian Summer" weather. Most excellent partners - thanks Mike, Kurt, & Ken!!

Desert Solitaire

Desert Solitaire - Sep 16, 2006 3:36 am Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2006

NE Couloir  Sucess!

4 hrs solo from Mosquito Flats. Great climb, except for the loose crap right above the glacier and before hitting the summit ridge. The airy bridge wasn't quite a knife-edge, only exposed on the right side - i felt cheated! hey, I paid for my exposure on *both* sides! : ]

Matt Worster

Matt Worster - Jul 17, 2006 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006

NE Couloir  Sucess!

From Mosquito Flat. Soft snow from Mills Lake, nice glissade back down. We took care exiting the snow onto the sandy stuff, but the ridge went well. Straight-forward short class three. We downclimbed (as the guides say) to bypass the narrow ridge, just walked over the top of it on the way back. Fun!


soslaw - Jun 26, 2006 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2006

Northeast Couloir  Sucess!

Soloed. Enjoyed the ridge traverse. Summit warm with spectacular vistas of the Sierras still heavily clad with snow. The descent was a suncup snow slog all the way to Ruby lake.


dervin - Jun 20, 2006 3:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2006

Northeast Couloir  Sucess!

Looks like we were the first people up this year. This is a beautiful summit, and we could see for hundreds of miles. Cheers.

Augie Medina

Augie Medina - Feb 16, 2006 9:19 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir to Mt. Abbot Date Climbed: Sept. 30, 2000  Sucess!

We came from our camp at Mills Lake. Conditions were nice on the hard packed snow and then I remember hopping onto the rock section of the route. The next day, we went back to do Petit Grifon.


murraymcleod - Dec 15, 2005 8:24 pm

Route Climbed: Southwest Class 2-3 route from Italy Basin Date Climbed: July 1973  Sucess!

Climbed with Rick Stubblefield after climbing up from Mono Creek via the recesses. Don't remember much else, except that it wasn't as hard as it looked from the bottom!


tdoughty - Oct 16, 2005 12:06 pm

Route Climbed: east chute  Sucess!

mid winter ascent. snow cave camp at base.


ExploreABitMore - Aug 29, 2005 2:25 pm

Route Climbed: NE Couloir Date Climbed: 08/26/05  Sucess!

Day hiked from Mosquito Flat TH - Fun Climb. Really loose rock exiting the couloir, but it got better and better the higher we climbed. I thought the ridge was a blast.


murraymcleod - Jun 23, 2005 3:48 pm

Route Climbed: West (from Lake Italy) Date Climbed: July, 1974  Sucess!

This was a long time ago! But I remember the route from Gabbott Pass being easier than it loooked from the bottom. Climbed with Rick Stubblefield.


DeRanger - Jun 21, 2005 12:03 pm

Route Climbed: chute from the east Date Climbed: Sept, 1990  Sucess!

Great views, climbed with MORT

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Nov 17, 2004 9:40 pm

Route Climbed: NE Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004  Sucess!

Not sure where the class 3 is; this all seemed class 2 to me. There was some crappy rock exiting from the snow, but the rest of the route really wasn't too loose, at least in comparison to Mills from a few days previously. Guess it helps to climb Mills to recalibrate one's expectations for Sierra routes. :-)


mrolph - May 24, 2004 7:00 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: May 22, 2004  Sucess!

A great climb with Sam Mills and Samantha O. Thanks for breaking trail up that nasty soft stuff Sam! The exposed ridge climb was great fun.

Sam Mills

Sam Mills - May 24, 2004 6:51 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: May 22, 2004  Sucess!

A great outting with SummitPoster's Martin (mrolph) and Samantha (Samantha3). We hiked in from the locked gate at the Rock Creek Pack Station and summited on Saturday. We spent the night at high camp, and hiked out Sunday morning.

Rinat Shagisultanov

Rinat Shagisultanov - May 17, 2004 3:11 am

Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: 16-May-2004  Sucess!

We have just retiurned from the trip to Mount Abbot in Rock Creek. The gate is still closed at the pack station, so it adsanother 1.5 miles one way before you reach the Mosquitoe Flat trailhead. Hiked up the Mono Pass to Ruby Lake (still frozen) and camped the small lake higher than MIlls Lake. Summited in 3:30 hrs from the base camp. The snow was well consolidated and there ws postholing at all. The snowline 10800-11000 ft.


RSN473 - Mar 4, 2004 11:15 am

Route Climbed: NE Couloir to western pinnacle Date Climbed: October 1998  Sucess!

Fun climb, can be done as long day trip from Mosquito Flat. As I remember, it was about 3 pitches with the last pitch (the hardest) being 5.5 - 5.7

mtnfoto - Jan 20, 2004 12:58 pm

Route Climbed: Regular Route Date Climbed: August 1995  Sucess!

Climbed straight up chute. Loose and not recommended!


asmrz - Nov 10, 2002 11:46 am

Route Climbed: Petit Griffon Spire III, 5.7 At the Abbot/Mills Notch Date Climbed: August 11, 1996

Miguel Carmona and I climbed this interesting summit from our camp at Dade Lake. The approach couloir is 35-40 degree steep and in late season requires ice axe and crampons. There are really two spires at the col. We climbed the higher, western summit. From the col, climb up and around (steep 4th) to the SW side of the western summit. From the notch between the two summits, climb steep 5.7 edge to the summit. In 1996, the only note on the western summit, was in old film canister. It said that in 1964, Dave McDonald and David Harvey climbed the route. We descended to the Abbot/Petit Griffon Col, scrambled up to the summit of Abbot and went down the NE Couloir which is an ugly pile of dirt and rocks when not covered with snow. This would be a great day outing for anyone wanting to climb a nice, airy, technical climb in the area. Recommended.

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