Team of three, camped at Mills Lake
I climbed what Secor calls the "northeast buttress" (class 4), which is the ridge just south of the north couloir. This allowed me to bypass the snow entirely. He says there is a lot of loose rock on this route, but I found the loose stuff to be avoidable and the underlying rock to be very solid. As a result, I enjoyed this climb very much. I descended the north couloir, which was a dreadfully crappy rock-sand-scree slipfest; I must say that the buttress was far more pleasant, and in hindsight I wished I had used it for descent as well. The buttress wasn't very difficult or scary for a class 4 route. I would not hesitate to recommend it to people who usually stick to class 3 (like myself), especially considering the alternative couloir which, as I said, was a loose and unpleasant route.
But the one good thing I'll say about the north couloir is that the upper ridge section is pretty nice (albeit short).
an enjoyable trip with jean.
Fun day, with minimal snow/ice.
Perfect weather. Solo.
Mud soup in the couloir, sandy rounded ledges on the traverse out of the couloir that were absolutely horrible, very nice upper half. Register was missing. Views were absolutely stunning thanks to great weather.
What a fun climb! Time it just right so you can use the snow rather than the gravel slog.
Climbed NE couloir solo during a california heat wave. Got an early start at 4am but snow up the couloir was soft enough not to need crampons. By the time I came down, the snow was so soft and unstable that I had to arrest myself twice. Other than that, beautiful climb.
With Robert Zeithammer. Nice route in the early season.
Fantasticly hair-raising day with Patrick and Pat doing the NE couloir with soft snow, then the sketchy Class 3/4 loose mess. Descending the same way and it wasn't so scary... ? Glad to have finally tagged this baby via the couloir.
Camped at Mills Lake. The low snow made crossing the moraine a real chore. The couloir was icy in sections but easily avoidable, rock fall was minimal. Weather was perfect, clear skies, calm breeze. Summited with Michael, both our first 13K. Awesome route.
Great moderate route done in winter, provided fun snow climbing, mixed scrambling and some great exposure and amazing views.
We started our trek from Rocky creek sno-park. Hiked in four miles to Mosquito flat, then another two miles to base camp (Mills lake). Hit the trail at 5am the next morning and summited Abbot by 1pm. Great climb with some steep sections and good scrambling near the top. Looking forward to coming back some day to take a shot at the Abbot direct route or Mills.
Excellent climb with SMG
Mostly snow and neve, with a spicy rock finish including a cool tunnel. There was a bit of fresh snow on the rock, so I climbed with my crampons on. Trip report
We planned this climbing for our SW release name Mount Abbot. The weather is great after a week of storm weather. There are good snow coverage from lake.
We started from Mosquito flat trail head at noon time and camped in Mills Lake. The campsite is pretty good.
We started the hike at 7:00am. We tried to walk on left side of lake and tried to avoid the snow. It is a mistake. We have to walk down to snow bank and put the crampon on.
The snow is soft under sunshine and I slipped once and self arrested. The scrambling part is ok in general. I lost the cairnes couple times and have to go back. After the exposure bridge area, the top part is easy. No wind and a beautiful day.
back to trail head at 5:30pm and drove back to Bay area.
Climbed from Dade Lake. Traverse to Abbot was pretty straightforward, although there were a lot of annoying penitentes. Scrambling to the ridge was dirty and mostly cl. 2. The catwalk part is fun, then a short slog to the summit. Great views, decent route.
Great daytrip up the NE Couloir via Ruby Lake. Travel above Ruby Lake was on nearly 100% snow.