Mount Abbot Climber's Log

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kleberr - Jun 14, 2022 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2015

NE Couloir from Mosquito Flat  Sucess!

Quick dayhike from Mosquito Flat. Due to the lack of snow in/below the Couloir the ascent was very tedious and loose and another party ahead of me caused permanent rock fall. Nice, exposed traverse to the summit plateau. Unfortunately no register in the box.


AceSierra - Jun 30, 2018 10:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2018

NE Couloir dayclimb  Sucess!

I can see why this is considered an Emblem Peak. Classic Sierra route. Thought this was easier than Dade, done the same week a year ago. No register on the summit, wtf?! Has there been no register since the 2014 report?


colinr - Oct 6, 2017 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017

With Mills  Sucess!



Bill562 - Sep 18, 2017 3:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2017

NE Couloir  Sucess!

Team of three, camped at Mills Lake


CWessels - Aug 22, 2016 2:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2016

NE Buttress  Sucess!

I climbed what Secor calls the "northeast buttress" (class 4), which is the ridge just south of the north couloir. This allowed me to bypass the snow entirely. He says there is a lot of loose rock on this route, but I found the loose stuff to be avoidable and the underlying rock to be very solid. As a result, I enjoyed this climb very much. I descended the north couloir, which was a dreadfully crappy rock-sand-scree slipfest; I must say that the buttress was far more pleasant, and in hindsight I wished I had used it for descent as well. The buttress wasn't very difficult or scary for a class 4 route. I would not hesitate to recommend it to people who usually stick to class 3 (like myself), especially considering the alternative couloir which, as I said, was a loose and unpleasant route.

But the one good thing I'll say about the north couloir is that the upper ridge section is pretty nice (albeit short).


mengbo - Jul 18, 2016 2:44 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2016

NE couloir  Sucess!

an enjoyable trip with jean.


Fairweather - Oct 17, 2015 7:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013

NE Couloir day hike  Sucess!

Fun day, with minimal snow/ice.
Perfect weather. Solo.


BobD3 - Oct 5, 2015 9:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014

NE Couloir  Sucess!

Mud soup in the couloir, sandy rounded ledges on the traverse out of the couloir that were absolutely horrible, very nice upper half. Register was missing. Views were absolutely stunning thanks to great weather.


charitydominic - Oct 30, 2014 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2008

Fun in Spring!  Sucess!

What a fun climb! Time it just right so you can use the snow rather than the gravel slog.


Hohniker - Sep 25, 2013 6:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

Slushy mess coming down  Sucess!

Climbed NE couloir solo during a california heat wave. Got an early start at 4am but snow up the couloir was soft enough not to need crampons. By the time I came down, the snow was so soft and unstable that I had to arrest myself twice. Other than that, beautiful climb.


Romain - Sep 17, 2013 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2013

Northeast Couloir  Sucess!

With Robert Zeithammer. Nice route in the early season. Trip report


Donno - Aug 13, 2013 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2001

NE Couloir  Sucess!

W/ Laura


Deb - May 19, 2013 1:22 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2013

Awesome!  Sucess!

Fantasticly hair-raising day with Patrick and Pat doing the NE couloir with soft snow, then the sketchy Class 3/4 loose mess. Descending the same way and it wasn't so scary... ? Glad to have finally tagged this baby via the couloir.


jonclimbingon - Sep 16, 2012 12:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

NE Couloir  Sucess!

Camped at Mills Lake. The low snow made crossing the moraine a real chore. The couloir was icy in sections but easily avoidable, rock fall was minimal. Weather was perfect, clear skies, calm breeze. Summited with Michael, both our first 13K. Awesome route.


Darren9 - Mar 8, 2012 10:05 pm Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2012

NE Couloir  Sucess!

Great moderate route done in winter, provided fun snow climbing, mixed scrambling and some great exposure and amazing views.


WayneFry - Mar 7, 2012 12:21 am Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2012

NE Couloir from Mills  Sucess!

We started our trek from Rocky creek sno-park. Hiked in four miles to Mosquito flat, then another two miles to base camp (Mills lake). Hit the trail at 5am the next morning and summited Abbot by 1pm. Great climb with some steep sections and good scrambling near the top. Looking forward to coming back some day to take a shot at the Abbot direct route or Mills.


MarekB - Mar 6, 2012 2:00 am Date Climbed: Mar 3, 2012

N couloir  Sucess!

Excellent climb with SMG


krrt2000 - Feb 16, 2012 11:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2011

NE Couloir



seano - Feb 4, 2012 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2011

North Couloir solo  Sucess!

Mostly snow and neve, with a spicy rock finish including a cool tunnel. There was a bit of fresh snow on the rock, so I climbed with my crampons on. Trip report

router1998 - Sep 21, 2011 2:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2011

North Couloir from Mills Lake  Sucess!

We planned this climbing for our SW release name Mount Abbot. The weather is great after a week of storm weather. There are good snow coverage from lake.
We started from Mosquito flat trail head at noon time and camped in Mills Lake. The campsite is pretty good.
We started the hike at 7:00am. We tried to walk on left side of lake and tried to avoid the snow. It is a mistake. We have to walk down to snow bank and put the crampon on.
The snow is soft under sunshine and I slipped once and self arrested. The scrambling part is ok in general. I lost the cairnes couple times and have to go back. After the exposure bridge area, the top part is easy. No wind and a beautiful day.
back to trail head at 5:30pm and drove back to Bay area.

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