Mount Baker Climber's Log

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BTftomBC - Jun 11, 2024 7:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2024

Coleman Deming summit

June 7&8 summit attempt in a group of 6. Day 1 made good time to Hogsback camp where a half dozen tents were established. Snow line was 100 or so feet below the second major creek. Travel up to the camp had good traction. Sunny Bluebird day made he views spectacular.

The plan was to camp up at Black Buttes, so on we went. What happened next was 2km and 1000ft of steep post holing in soft snow. Brutal but we made it. Camp was set up quickly, some skills practice, dinner and bed by 8pm.

Woke at 2am, roped up and started walking at 3am in 2 rope teams. Travel was excellent on supportive crust. Made good time up to the Deming Colfax Col. The only crevasses were the exceptionally large ones that were easy to see and avoid. No activity from Colfax either.
We unroped for the ridge and Roman Wall climb. Excellent crust with good traction on crampons but not great boot pack steps so slow going. Summited at 730am behind 2 parties. Clear views all around, Rainier & Glacier Peak visible through haze.

Climb down the Roman Wall dicey as it hadn't received sun and softened. Again did it unroped until the Col. Temperature climbing to 10 C, relentless sun back on the glacier.

On the descent we probably saw 150 climbers in multiple parties. Many roped up for the climb and descent creating considerable hazard. Below the Deming-Colfax Col we had relentless post holing through breakable crust. Miserable. Got roasted by the sun and snow. Avalanche activity noted several times from solar exposure.

Back in camp at 12pm. Packed up and out by 1pm. Negotiated relentless post holing all the way to the treeline, but no crust. Some glissading helped speed things up! The crowds of people was astounding. Clearly the big starting weekend of the season!

Made it to the trailhead by 4pm. Exhausted but elated at our accomplishment!
I'd wait at least a month for the snow to consolidate.

ambassador magma

ambassador magma - Apr 10, 2024 8:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2023

Super Pumpy  Sucess!

Climbed as part of a group of 12; waiting for our turn up the Roman Wall (many parties queue to go up or down here) was the most time-consuming part of the day.

Wheelbarrow

Wheelbarrow - Mar 19, 2024 9:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2021

Gotta love the smell of rotten eggs at the crater!   Sucess!

All my gratitude to the teams that established the route over Easton Glacier. Loved the wild blueberries along the ridge leading up to high camp.

ryborg - Jul 10, 2023 2:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2022

Guided summit up the Easton  Sucess!

Guided group climb with AAI up the Easton. Good climbing conditions (crevasse, weather), cloudy and misty summit.

JRaphaelson

JRaphaelson - Jun 16, 2023 7:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2023

Easton Glacier  Sucess!

Excellent climb and ski! Straightforward route and navigation.

punchline

punchline - Feb 10, 2022 6:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2021

via Easton Glacier  Sucess!

Part of a multi day trip to Baker and Shuksan. Beautiful day great climb - no snow on the summit.

markhadland@gmail.com

markhadland@gmail.com - Jul 12, 2021 1:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2021

Finally Summited  Sucess!

c2c summit from CD. Sunset, moonlight climb, sunrise at 4am, and spectacular descent.

hackerhiker

hackerhiker - Jun 12, 2021 2:33 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2021

Mount Baker  Sucess!

C-D Route: Witnessed a huge serac fall off Colfax Peak. Luckily no one was hurt.

comoqueres

comoqueres - Sep 22, 2020 8:25 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2020

Easton Glacier Route. Smokey day, technical for Mt Baker, loved it  Sucess!

Icy climb. More technical than Mt. Baker usually is. Had two basketball sized rocks falling miss us by four feet on the Roman Wall.

Snofzig

Snofzig - Aug 15, 2020 8:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2020

Lovely Weather and Views  Sucess!

Nice walk along the Easton Glacier.

Alpine Tom - Jul 23, 2020 4:43 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2020

Boulder Ridge - an excellent route!  Sucess!

An excellent day in the wilderness - from the time we passed the little family a mile from the trailhead to the summit, we didn't see another human.
The route is in good condition. The rope at the basalt cliff is stiff and has a couple of knots in it, but was okay for using as pro. We brought at 50m rope, which isn't long enough to rapel from; we had to downclimb the last 20 feet or so.
We camped around 7200' ( I think.) Headed up around 6:00 AM, and roped up at around 9,000' at the top of the cleaver, and got to the summit around 11:30. There were dozens of people up there, it was like a city park - there was even a couple with a dog, who'd come up the Squawk Glacier.

mattsim - Jun 18, 2020 1:17 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009

Mountaineers Int. - Attempt #2  Sucess!

Climbed with SIG group. Vlad, Daniel, and what's her name.

mattsim - Jun 18, 2020 12:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2001

Socked in, bailed out

Seattle Mountaineers outing. We hiked in the Coleman glacier, set up camp in heavy falling snow. Woke up to 2' of fresh cascade concrete. We opted to bail on a summit attempt to climbed up a few thousand feet, busting trail, just for experience.

cascadescrambler

cascadescrambler - Aug 6, 2019 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 1976

Coleman Galcier  Sucess!

Climbed with Seattle Mountaineers

kronshage3

kronshage3 - Jul 31, 2019 8:05 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2019

Via Easton Glacier  Sucess!

I can see why this one is such a popular trainer for Rainier. Good for practicing rope travel without feeling like you are ever going to fall in a crevasse.
This is a very busy route. Kind of takes away from the fun of being in the mountains. But there are no choke points really... maybe by the crater and the section just above the crater.
We camped the night before and managed to find some water on a higher camping area than everyone else. Sure beats having to melt all that snow.
Overall this is an easy route. You could literally not study the route, follow the signs to Railroad Grade, and follow the path in the snow to summit. Not too difficult. I do not suggest that, but you could.

Snofzig

Snofzig - Jul 17, 2019 7:14 pm

Easton Glacier  Sucess!

Beautiful day for a summit. The weather was fantastic, and the snow was perfect for crampons on the ascent. Got to the top at 7:30 Am, and the day was perfectly clear and sunny, with no wind. It was almost spooky without the wind, but a fantastic day for a summit, with an unbeatable view of the North Cascades.

bluecappo

bluecappo - Jun 18, 2019 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2017

Mount Baker-Coleman Deming Glacier Route  Sucess!

Great trip up spending one overnight on the mountain. Conditions were starting to deteriorate and we had to make one adjustment from prior day attempts on the main route. Really surprised by the number of people on the glacier without adequate gear :/

chrisc

chrisc - Jun 5, 2019 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2019

North Ridge Summit!  Sucess!

Summited via the North Ridge June 2019. Gaining the ridge in great conditions and a mixed variation up high! Full trip report here!

huskertriguy

huskertriguy - Jun 1, 2019 5:23 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2019

via Easton

Mountaineers trip via Easton route. Plans were to camp at 6200' but at 1:30 p.m. we called it and set up near a small cluster of trees.

Route was heavily crevassed and snow was very slushy. After some discussion by the leadership it was felt that a successful summit would be unlikely and the objective was changed from Baker to Sherman.

I opted out of the push to Sherman as I was not feeling like anything other than Baker would be worth it, choosing instead to save my energies for a couple longer pushes I have planned in the next couple days.

This was a poor decision on my part, it turns out, because most of the team DID actually summit. Their report is that the snow was quite slushy up to about 8000'-9000', punching through a thin crust 6-8 inches. Some felt it was easier to follow the bootpack; others found the footing better just off it.

Crevasses have already opened up quite a bit.

kbrenneman

kbrenneman - May 28, 2019 10:44 am Date Climbed: May 21, 2019

deep, slow snow

to the Roman Wall

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