We did this climb with our friends from the Mazamas. Crappy weather on the approach foreced us to bivy low (~5400') next to the Railroad Grade. 1am start the next morning under clear and calm conditions. Got to summit at 7am. Crowded. Quick photo and a quick upchuck (felt bad for some reason) and we hiked down/out. Headed down to L-worth for some approach-free cragging.
Quick weekend up and down, great weather, great views, good times.
What a fantastic mountain! Weather was good, route was great.
Alpine Ascents 7 days climbing course.
Second summit of Baker. We left at 2:40 am and reached true summit at 6:20 am. We took a couple of long breaks. Beautiful summer day with no wind at all.
We were a two man team but never felt uncomfortable on the glacier. The route stays in the shade till late morning (10 am in our case) so the snow stayed firm through the entire descent back to camp.
We couldn't have climbed any later in the year. Super hard ice. The icefall section above Hogback was a total nightmare. Super strong winds but actually a beautiful day. Routefinding a bit of a problem but the beautiful thing, my partner and I on the mountain alone for two days without seeing anyone!
Took AAI six day course. Rain & sleet the entire week & a total white-out at the summit, but loved it!
A truly awesome climb. We slept at the foot of the glacier and left at 430am in poor weather. Almost bagged it, but decided to see what happens a bit further up. At 9k ft, we broke through cloud deck into glorious weather. The incredibly aethetic view of Baker's heavy glaciation and nearby peaks poking through the cloud deck was incredible.
Nice easy climb on hard snow.
Lots of beautiful ice forms and crevasses. Fun, relatively easy route on a beautiful day.
Memorial weekends always helpful by adding up some necessary vocation time in our bussy life style. It was early in the season, thus most of the roads leading towrds the trailhead were completely covered with snow. Once we found a spot where to leave our car we started to go up the trail. The weather was buitiful in the morning but was rotten by the heavy rain later in the day. After a nasty day of hike we did not hope to see a clear sky, but fortunatly the next day became very promising. The summit condiitons were perfect and we summited via the Normal route with some littel variations(45 deg ice climb) to make the summit day more remarkable. It took us nine our total from the base came and back.
Went up with the promise of a dusting of new snow, bought my snowboard and rode down the majority of the Coleman-Deming route. We found shallow powder/corn down to 8000 feet. Perfect weather for the third time in a row.
Once again, perfect conditions and amazing weather. The route was very busy on the weekend. We camped at the high camp up at 7000 feet, which in hindsight is not a very good idea. The glacier begins at 6000 feet, and the first section is steep and heavily crevassed. A fall with a full backpack on this section would not be pretty. It's a short climb anyway, so the low camp on the rocks at 6000 feet is perfectly suitable.
An amazing climb...can't wait to go back and try one of the other routes.
Left TH at 12 midnight for a one day ascent of the north ridge, and a ski down the coleman deming route
20 Hours RT, too many running belays above ice cliff due to fresh snow and balling up of crampons.
Good ski down on corn.
TR and images:
Part of an AAI mountaineering course. Spent 5 days up on the mountain. The weather cleared on or summit day and gave us nice crisp snow and great views.
- We camped @ 6,500'
- Got up @ 1:00 am
- Started climbing @ 2:00 am
- Snow conditions were excellent
- Sun rose up @ 5:30 am
- Reached the summit @ 5:45 am (good pace)
- No wind on the way up but cold brisk and blustery on top (take layers when you stop).
- Stayed for an hour and had fun on the glacier on the way down.
climbing partner JW Port
Partners: David Morgan, Hubertus Guenther, Joe Nappi, Erich Guenther.
Baker can be done in one day as an option. Leave cars from Heliotrope Ridge trailhead about 1:00AM, summit by 9:30AM and back to car by 3:00PM. We have done it the last two years as a warm up for other climbs. Just an option, but the packs are sure lighter.
Glacial Core Samping