Day hiked the glacier route from Saddlebag Lake. Came down the Carnegie Institute side. Very hard and icy couloirs off the glacier. Loose rock to get around the Bergschrund. Overall a fun climb - but a long day.
we climbed it, took the east ridge to the summit and descended down the east ridge route
Climbed with cousin Lucian from Upper Young Lake. Round trip in just over 4 hours. Finally reached the top after a few false summits.
This was my favorite peak for a while. I used it to measure my acclimatization. I know I did it five times, maybe more. I love that peak.
The first time was a Ragged-Conness-White dayhike with Bob out of Tuolumne Meadows. The West Ridge is an awesome climb, great fun even with a rope--we simulclimbed most of it, but it would be cool to come back and solo it... if I can find a way to bypass the first couple of pitches! Those are beyond my limited soloing skills. A dusting of snow from a storm the day before made the 5.6 crux a bit spicy for me, as the snow tended to accumulate in all the holds.
The second visit was on the first day of Bob's Sierra Challenge, when we soloed the North Ridge (except for those darned rappels). Linking up that with the NW Ridge on North Peak was perhaps the most enjoyable day in the Sierra yet. Fantastic rock with bomber holds the whole way. I'll definitely be doing that one again.
Started from Saddlebag Lake at 7:40am and reached the summit at about 12:30pm . Great weather. Climbed w/ 2 friends. There was another group of two who started off later but overtook us on the way up. They then led us on an interesting variation that bypassed Alpine lake on the way down. There is almost no more writing material in the summit ammo box. Do bring a notebook up if you're heading up there soon.
Day 1 of the 2004 Sierra Challenge, traversing from North Peak up the very fun North Ridge. We had 10 climbers on the route at one time, all soloing except for the two rappels - an amusing sight. Four of us took the not as great, but still fun East Ridge on the way down. Trip Report
fun romp. the approach is the crux. can move fast simul-ing, which I recommend.
Some of the most amazing climbing I've done in the SIerras, esp. combined with North Peak... Day 1 of the Sierra Challenge.. :)
We started at 5am from the Sawmill campground, hoping to climb the West ridge. After hauling all our climbing gear to the East ridge, we realized that the weather that seemed so nice and peaceful in the morning is turning ugly. After deciding against the West ridge in such conditions, we tagged the summit as a consolation prize. This is the 2nd time this route defeats me... 3rd time is the charm!?
Day One of the Sierra Challenge. Traverse from North Peak. Perfect Weather; Great Day! Click on thumb for trip report:
Great trip to ski the Conness Glacier. Left from 120 (road was still closed) with full packs, dropped them at Greenstone and continued up glacier to summit. Camped at Greenstone and skied North Peak the next day. Click on thumb for trip report:
From Saddlebag Lake, I followed the creek drainage past the Carnegie Research station and ascended the south ridge from the east about two miles south of the peak. There, I caught the trail to the peak. Great views of the Yosemite area. I followed the same route both ascents.
"Bag it, tag it, sell it to the butcher in the store."
The second peak of the day for the first day of the Sierra Challenge. The solo climbing was fun and very solid.
Afternoon start provided nice alpenglow descent. I was surely "shot down" by a fighter jet giving thumbs up sign then banking towards Cathedral Peak. Great day....
Somewhere I got the idea that there was a class 3 route to the right of the glacier. Nope. Got stopped out near the top of the glacier. Went back the next day and did the easy class 2 route up the south slope.
Pics are here
We got off route at the begining and had to climb the cliffs to gain the ridge - this cost us maybe 2-3 hours of time. Got to the summit at 8pm - great climbing all along and the views are awesome! Descended via East Ridge and Alpine Lake - we got a little lost in the dark... back at car at 3am...
Climbed this route with Bob Burd and his group on day one of the 2004 Sierra Challenge. We started with the Northwest Ridge of North Peak and linked it up with this route. Climbed without ropes except for the rappels off the second tower. Descent via the East Ridge.