REALLY long 'day' for a climb. After leaving a little late and getting a slow start on the ridge, we got caught in the dark after the first 3 or 4 pitches and had to climb the rest of the ridge in the dark. As a result, we belayed all of the pitches until the final 300 feet of 3rd class scrambling, with us summitting at 5am the following day. By the time we got back to the car, we'd been on the move for 24 hours.
My very first free solo! It was awesome! We climbed North Peak first, from Saddlebag Lake, then hiked down its south ridge and up Conness' north ridge. Killer!
Summitted with my girlfriend Etsuko via East Ridge. We took the variation between East Ridge from Alpine Lake and East Ridge routes. It turned out to be an easy Class 3 going and more direct and pleasant than from Alpine Lake. We made it to the top in ~3 hours from the parking lot at Saddleback Lake. Weather was surprisingly stable and rain-free after many days of violent thunderstorms above the Sierra crest. Views from the summit are incredible! On the top we've met a chef of Tioga Pass Resort who free-solo'ed West Ridge.
On the way down, we took some harder Class 3 - borderline Class 4 slabs to Alpine Lake where we spent an hour enjoying the sun!
By way of Alpine Lake on one of those cloudless days with views beyond dreams.
One of the great ones, Bob Cable and I climbed this route as a finale to the greatest sierra season ever. I'm suprised I've still got a wife. Pitch 2 may be the crux but whoever leads pitch 5 knows where the crux really is.
fine sierra ridge scramble. day trip from saddlebag lake. the crux is a steep downclimb which can be rapped if you have a rope. long descent.
An awesome day! forjan, jimconsid, Will and myself climbed Mount Conness on what could be considered a perfect day. Left our campsite at Saddlebag Lake shortly after 6:00 AM and hiked cross-country to Alpine Lake. From there we picked up the East Ridge Route, scrambling up fun class 3 rock to the summit plateau. From there another short and somewhat exposed class 3 section brought us to the spectacular summit. The views in all directions where outstanding.
I climbed this for the second time with my good friend, Sam. She wasn’t feeling 100% because she spent part of the day before swimming down a class 5 rapid. Nevertheless, we both made it and afterwards had a nice swim and a few shots of scotch at Alpine Lake and walked down happily buzzed.
This is a nice, clean route (not much slogging). A few years ago I climbed the South Slope from the east route. Great route description.
I have climbed the East Ridge twice, and the first trip, with my friend Craig Watkins, was uneventful but fun. The 2nd time, with ScottyS while on a geography field trip with UNR, was a full moon night time ascent. We left Saddlebag just after dark, and summited to crystal clear views in all directions at about 10 pm. Back to Saddlebag by 1 am for some sleep. The moon was so bright on the white granite that a headlamp was unnecessary except in the trees on the approach.
August 9, 2006: West Ridge with Dave Michalski, ctc in around 11 hours, we belayed the first two pitches, and simul-climbed the rest. Two simul-solers climbed ahead of us, and they they proceeded to simul-solo down the North Ridge. We descended the East Ridge.
August 28, 2006. Climbed the North Ridge from North Peak with D-Rod and ScottyS. An enjoyable day of scrambling, starting with the NW Ridge of North Peak.
August 8, 2009
Climbed the NW Ridge of North Peak, then the North Ridge of Conness, then the West Ridge of Conness, then back to the car just at dark
Nice hike - except for the boring scree above Alpine Lake. The lake itself and then the summit ridge were the highlights. I was not expecting a "real" mountain, but it was...
With Sven Feldmann, 6 hours CTC at a leisurly pace, including lunch at Alpine lake (with a swim therein for Sven) and over an hour spent on the summit.
Climbed at night with bearbnz under a full moon. Had headlamps, but didn't need them. Since we were on a class field trip, we mentioned to the instructor that we would "be taking a little walk". Needless to say, we were treated to awsome views of the Park at night, with the Sac valley city lights as a backdrop. Sticking our heads up over the buttress and seeing the imposing summit mass at night (with the glacier just to the right and down!) was a thrill that will stay with me for a while. We did the round trip in something like 7hrs.
This was our second multipitch climb, after the south slopes of Mount Starr King. Considerably more committing! Although we made pretty good time to the start of the ridge (~ 2 hours from the car), I believe we spent about 8-9 hours on the windy ridge. This was due mainly to unnecessary use of the rope! Other than the downclimb/rappel on the second tower, the climbing never seemed harder than 5.2-5.4. To top things off, we got off-route on the descent and ended up doing much of it with headlamps. BTW, the register is full, for people who sign it.
Read my trip report
Conness is a great day climb in the Tioga Pass area. The summit block was fun, similar to Matterhorns. A bunch of marmots were up there. The basin from Sawmill campground to Alpine Lake and up to the saddle between Conness and White was filled with killer mosquitoes, I didn't stop till I got to the saddle where the wind kept them at bay. Solo
Summitted Conness via the far right chute on the glacier route. Main purpose was to ski that chute and the bowls off the east ridge. There was still a fair amount of snow heading into July, although getting very suncupped. Click here for trip report
After bagging North Peak, I traversed over to the summit of Conness. 5.6 is a very generous rating for the North Ridge. IMO, it's more like 5.2. I saw that Joe Hanssen had been there the day before. It's always fun to run into SP people's log entries. Car to car in 4:55.
We took the slow long way. Hiked into Youngs Lake from Lembert Dome. First night out we heard a bear running by as other campers banged pots and shouted.
Next morning we took off, overlarge rack clanking away, and climbed one of the finest ridges in the Sierra's. It was a great mix of easy simul-climbing with shorter, harder belayed sections. We were S-L-O-W. Fervent promises were made to go faster and lighter in the future. Surprised at how many other parties were on the route. Finally summited and ran down the sandy slopes back to camp.
That night the camp was cleared out, and the bear harrassed us until 4:00am. In case you're wondering, no, we had nothing close to camp to attract the bear, except our own BO. It's an overused area, so she's conditioned to keep looking for food 'till she finds it.
a great day
Climbed the W. Ridge on a beautiful Fall day with my partner Larry. It was a fourteen hour trip from car to car. Included in that time were a couple of questionable decisions on the approach such as decending from the plateau into the notch closest to the SW face. I suspect much time would be saved by decending the notch located much farther to the South.
I don't know how mother nature managed to sneak one last perfect day into the mix before she let loose with more typical October
weather, but I know that we were lucky to have it. Even on the exposed ridges and on the summit itself, the sun was coming through with nary a breeze to pierce it's veil of warm comfort.
The climb itself was more sustained that I suspected in that I perceived that after the first few hundred feet the terrain would taper off to easy third class climbing. This was not the case at all and we encountered solid fourth and moderate fifth class here and there until high up the route. Since we were soloing with a lot of weight on our backs, we were looking forward to the route easing off, but we were not able to take off our climbing shoes until only a few hundred feet below the summit.
The trip back was thankfully uneventful, except for meeting a fellow climber named John who had climbed the East Ridge. He told us about this great site SummitPost.com.
A truly great route with magnificent exposure.
After a very short bouldering session at the Volcanic Tablelands near Bishop, I drove up to Saddlebag Lake. I left my car at 12:15, intending to run a few laps around the lake for exercise. But when I caught my first view of the North Ridge of Mount Conness from the NW corner of the lake, I decided to go check out the route instead. Before I knew it, I was at the base of the North Ridge. After a few minutes of thought, I decided to go for it. I was wearing running shoes, shorts, and a button-down-the-front, short-sleeve shirt. I had no food, water, backpack, or rope...nothing but my car keys, which I tucked into my sock.
After gaining the ridge via some nice 5.easy rock, I cruised the knife edge on terrain that started at Class 2, then increased in difficulty to Class 3/4. When I reached the "tower," I downclimbed some fun Class 5 rock, then cruised up to the summit. I stayed close to the ridge so that I could enjoy some of the excellent exposure. Near the summit, I encountered some hysterical women who commented on my attire and the fact that I had no water with me. I mumbled something about "deprivation training," but what came out of my mouth was probably incoherent. I descended the Alpine Lake Route, getting back to my car at 4:25pm. Car-to-Car time: 4 hours, 10 minutes.
North Ridge of N Peak to N Ridge Conness, car to car from Saddlebag in 9 hours.
Only challenging climbing is the downclimb on Conness, blood, gore, and death potential. If you're not comfy soloing 5.7, take a rope, and you'll probably only use it for this rap. A 100 foot rope would do it.