Spectacular camp in Darwin Canyon and a great trip up the snow to the west ridge. The snow on the gully leading turned super soft on the descent, providing much more of a challenge than expected. I returned to North Lake via Alpine Col and Piute Pass. Such an amazing area to explore!
I checked the successful box because we made it to our intended high point, which was the top of the North Couloir. I was literally just a couple feet short of the summit plateau, and we climbed to to top of the little spur next to the couloir. It would have been a serious detour and quite a bit of extra time to go to the true summit block. As it was, we made it to our intended camp above the lake south of Alpine Col just as the sun slipped behind Mt. Goethe.
West Ridge, with René Renteria. Getting to the notch is loose and circuitous, but the ridge climb is very pleasant and the summit block spectacular. Trip report.
Dayhike from North Lake via Darwin Glacier and West Ridge with Iris Ma. Long day (17 hours 10 Minutes), but lots of fun. Good route finding above the glacier, a bit loose in places climbing up to the west ridge, but no serious issues. Fun scrambling along the ridge itself, plenty of ducks to guide us. The summit block was a little tricky since we had 2 pieces of beta telling us to go around the right side (Secor, and this website), but I could find nothing that looked good. Makes me wonder if something has fallen down in recent years. The left side was much easier. Just drop down less than 50 vertical feet into the chute, then traverse clockwise around the summit block, climbing another chute with a chockstone at the top. That brought us to the final class 3 moves on the back side that let us finish the climb. Got to do a little glissade down the glacier on the return too!
My video is here:
With Suzi from Midnight Lake.
Fun route, nice summit.
Dayhike from N Lake, started up NE ridge but even after the spicy start a whole lot of it looked harder than class 4, so ventured out onto the east face. Eventually ran back into the top of the ridge and crossed over to gain the summit plateau. Down via N face (the east rock rib, not the ice chute), where I was treated to one of the best sunsets I've ever seen, without even being able to see the sun itself.
From Evolution Lake with Gordon. Did Mendel in the afternoon.
From upper Darwin Lake. Climbed the summit block via dropping to a small "V" chute on the left side. Felt like class 3.
Climbed with Hakan yalcin, Vladimir ulyashin , and Mike Chen, via Lamarck Col. Most difficult was climbing the nasty chute from Darwin glacier to the West ridge, probably class 4. We belayed the summit pinnacle from the nearest side via a 5.6 finger crack.
27 hour c2c climb of Evolution Traverse.
Climbed snow/ice to 50deg w/ Chris, Reza and Sung
With Dunbar Carpenter. Camped at Evolution Lake, up & down via W Face gullies. A tribute to Chas Darwin on his bicentenary. Summit block was a bit of a challenge for me, but none at all for Dunbar...
The ridge was fun cl. 3 The chute above the glacier was an interesting mix of snow and ice, not bad going up,coming down a little sketchy
need ice axe/crampon to the notch. Wish we brought a rope for the summit block, very exposed.
From Tom Ross for the Sierra Challenge. A bit of loose stuff, but mostly fun class 3. The snow couloir would have been better, but I had neither axe nor spikes. Trip report
cool summit block, cool summit plateau. traverse via mendel and peak 13385 (north ridge aka evolution ridge); 8 hours from base of route with doug
climbed with Chad via west ridge
Very enjoyable climb with a lot of variation. Needed crampons for the glacier, route finding not too difficult up to the ridge, and climbing along the ridge enjoyable. The summit block was a nice little problem, went via the exposed route to the right side to reach the top.
Obnoxious scree ascent in certain areas, but cool (alternate) summit blocks