Mount Edith Cavell Climber's Log

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SnowRider - Aug 11, 2019 11:15 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2019

Mt Edith Cavell East Ridge loop  Sucess!

A furious thunderstorm the evening before, but finally stopped raining; we left the upper parking lot at 4:30 AM, hiked in the dark to the col ~6 AM emerging above the clouds. Scrambled up the East Ridge to the summit ~11:15 PM in glorious sunshine, a wonderful view of peaks poking up through the clouds. Descended the West scrambling route, then the long hike back around to the parking lot, 14 hours including lunch & picture stops. A fabulous day.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Aug 5, 2017 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2017

Solo east ridge  Sucess!

Solod up the east ridge in 4.5 hours from the car. Beautiful sunrise on route, but fogged in on the summit. Waited on top for 2 hours to no avail. Descending the west ridge, it quickly cleared up and the views were stunning.

Old School WB

Old School WB - Oct 6, 2011 5:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008

East Ridge   Sucess!

Dry rock, but lots of snow on final summit ridge. Great day trip (11 hours car to car) with Trevor Bueckert and Steve McCartney.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Aug 8, 2010 12:08 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2010

North Face  Sucess!

A 17-hour extravaganza with Barry Blanchard in the lead. Topped out after midnight by headlamp. Descent through the night and into the next morning. Back up to the Angel Glacier the next day to retrieve our bivy gear.


Shano - Apr 9, 2012 8:35 pm

Re: North Face

wow, thats badass. After reading about the descent I'm having second thoughts about going back for this one. I dont think we got more than about 500ft up the face before getting BOMBED off. Would you call this a recommended route?


Shano - Aug 23, 2009 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2009

failed N. Face

date uncertain (hey, i was on vacation!...)

After a 3am start w/ Aurora Borealis overhead (spectacular!) and getting thru the approach cliffbands (not too bad) we made it to the start of the N. Face route ~0730. High pressure overhead and a bright sunny day led to D-Day CanRockies style. We got about 500ft up before deciding we weren't that enthused about dying on vacation.
Both of us experienced too-close calls with bombs raining down perpetually. Bad scene, bad timing.

Bailing from that point wasn't much better but at least we were out of the line of fire and alive.

Note to self - pray for cold weather next time (and there WILL be a next time.)


ArankaP - Mar 5, 2009 12:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2008

Route Climbed: East Ridge with Brian (Dunsum) and Lubos  Sucess!

We climbed on a stormy day in early season conditions with lots of snow and ice. Descended the West Ridge which was a long slog, but under the circumstances, better than trying to go down the East Ridge.


caputaka - Aug 21, 2008 10:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008

East Ridge - again

Car to car 10.5 hours, shaved off 5 hours from trip 4 years ago. Mostly due to better route finding, short roping/simul-climbing and unroped climbing. 19C at 3300m, on such a hot day, there was soft snow and the crampons stayed in the bag. Despite the loose rubble, I still enjoy the descent down the West Ridge for a complete traverse.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Aug 6, 2008 12:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2008

East Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed in less than optimal conditions with Bill Nootens. The upper ridge took a while, though we simulclimbed most of it. Lots of snow that could not be avoided. Kept having to pull the axe out and put it away to negotiate the bigger drifts. A beautiful day out though.Need I mention how tedious the West Ridge descent is?


dunsum - Jul 27, 2008 4:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2008

East Ridge  Sucess!

Fantastic route! We climbed on a stormy day in early season conditions with lots of snow and ice but, fortunately, dry rock. Decscended the West Ridge which was a long slog, but under the circumstances, better than trying to go down the East Ridge. This is a great route.


MtnMagic - Oct 14, 2007 1:21 pm

East Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed this during a very warm summer. Almost no snow on route. Did not use crampons or even ice axe. A great route although there was a large quantity of loose rock above the solid quartz crux step (5.3 climbing on large positive holds). Long slog back after downclimbing the West Ridge.


Geofflamp - Mar 11, 2007 3:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2006

W Ridge...hmmm  Sucess!

Lousy weather, went up the W Ridge tourist route. Won't do it again. Long, not much for views until you hit the ridge, and then it's less-than-stellar shale to the top. Although the 'quartzite gully' rock was solid, it was primarily big, tedious, rickety boulders. Nevertheless, still a grand day out... albeit long...


chrisferro - Jan 11, 2007 4:00 pm

E. Ridge Simul-Solo  Sucess!

Pedro Espina and I left the hostel at the bottom of the mountain at about 4:00am and in about 2 hours we were up at the col where the East ridge starts. We brought harnesses and a rope but never put them on. The climbing was hiking at first, then scrambling, and the upper portion was easy 5th class for 200 feet or so, but we just kept moving and we were on the top by 10am. The really long part of the day was the descent down the West ridge and the long, long hike back. It's a great route, with nice exposure in spots and beautiful views in all directions.


climbwild - Apr 15, 2006 7:00 pm

E Ridge Solo attempt

Failed when storm moved in and forced me to downclimb in a whiteout, trail blown over, zero visibility. Nearly fell down the North Face, resulting in sphincter lock for the next 3 days.

For a comprehensive study of Mt. Edith Cavell with many photos, see Mt. Edith Cavell on my personal adventure website,


Rileywyna - Dec 19, 2005 5:58 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002

Got a late start and once my sister saw the ridge from the base she got a over whelmed. So we turned right and bagged a few peaks instead. Now that she has soloed Sir Donald I want to go back with her and summit this spectacular mountain.


Andinistaloco - Aug 11, 2005 8:11 pm

Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: summer 2002  Sucess!

Bad weather forced me to abandon the east ridge and go this way instead. Still, a long, aestetic route... incredible views down the north face!


brandon - Jul 30, 2004 4:46 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!

Solo with Andrew in 4:40 from the car. Lots of folks behind us, but we had the mtn and summit and descent down W Ridge to ourselves. Beautiful climbing.

jeffn - Sep 7, 2003 6:08 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 26, 2003  Sucess!

Never saw the peak until the way down. Worth all the moraine scrambling on the way in.


e_wire - Jun 10, 2003 11:56 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 2001

Straight forward climb. Approach took some 3 hours. After a large boulder felt on my partners hand, braking 3 fingers and exposing a lot of skin, we had to turn around. We reached the last big plateau (seen on the picture). Return proved to be a challenge with a broken hand! It was a long day, including the wait at the Jasper hospital...


aboga - Aug 26, 2002 1:53 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: Summer of 199?  Sucess!

Really sweet ridge, apparently with wonderful views. Unfortunately we spent the day in clouds and never had more than a hundred or so meters of visibility.. doh!

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