Summited the west peak in whiteout and blizzard. Previous night spent in a crevasse near the saddle. I climbed the whole route on skis and then descended from the summit (nearly zero visibility until the saddle). Summited the east peak a few days earlier.
Perfect climb to the summit. Two days of waiting paid off. The first day we were surprised by a thunderstorm at 4900 meters and ran down the slope like crazy.
We had really nice weather although a strong and very cold wind.
From the P. Rocks to summit took 5 hours.
Thanks to Pilgrim Tours and our guide Sergei.
After 6 days of acclimatization and couple of days down in the valley with four clients I started the Elbrus ascent from Priyut 11 and climbed the West summit quite easily in 6 hours. The weather was OK, a bit cold (-20C on the Seddle), moderate wind, good visibility. Planty of fresh snow on the Seddle.
Perfect summit day! Gale blowing on top but no clouds! Much better than my attempt in 2002 when we abandoned the climb above the saddle in a really bad blizzard
cold but great summit day. Earlier in the season seems like a great ski down...
Great trip a little difficult to get to the mountain from Aberdeen Scotland though : 3 planes, 1 Bus, 3 cars including taxies, 1 cable car and a chairlift and that’s just to the start.
Acclimatization was done on MT Cheget and at the Observatory.
Ascent after 3 days of fight (on second day I couldn't make a step upstairs on the saddle between W and E summits) with frozen fingers and burnt face, but I was happy on the W summit which is on the edge of former volcano crater.
Summited at 10:58 am. Guided by Pilgrim Tours.
The Caucasus mountains are awesome. I should have brought my skis, this is a skiable mountain from the summit. Summit day was perfect until I reached 5200m. The clouds came in with the winds, visibility was about 5 feet. We still reached the summit though. The Russians were really nice.
Perfect day , 10 hours to reach the summit from high camp at about 3650m.
Started at 02:00 from the campsite above the barrels. Reached the summit in excellent weather with spectacular views of the Caucasus at 11:00.
Camped at 4400m. Excellent weather, but too hot all the way to the saddle. This time I climbed the peak all the way from Azau. No cabin, no lift.
We left the Priot huts at 3:00 AM and reached the Western Summit at 10:30 AM -- We were back to Priot huts by 11:00 Am and drinking beer at the bottom of the mountan by 2:00 PM.. Tempertures when we left for the summit were very cold and windy just before saddle - But when we reached the top it was warm 35 degrees F -- a great day! - Marc Goddard / Bio Bio Expeditions
Perfect summit day. 10 hours round trip from the Barrel Huts. Thanks Pilgrim Tours!
First I have to say that this is a mountain very windy. Second, if you go in Caucasus only for Elbrus it`s a shame because in that area you have alot of peaks that are more beautiful than this one.
Changeable weather and snow conditions. The upper part was quite windy.
Summited via normal route. My first "big" mountain. Just before the saddle I thought that there could not be far left, so went with all guns blazing. Boy did I regret that. Was so tired and feeling like shit that I turned around on the summit plateau, maybe 5-8 minutes from summit. Our guide convinced me to turn around again and I got to the summit and vommitted. Left after 5 minutes or something like that.
Overslept and left the camp 100vert/m higher than Priot 11 at 08:00. Five Hours later I was on the summit of Elbrus. Nice views. A bit windy, - 11 C on the summit.
We spent one week on the mountain. Very stormy (lightning) and white-out conditions also. Ascent day was nice but it was just one nice day! Way to summit tooks 8 hours from Prijut and descending 4 hours if you've good aclimatization.
As part of my 7 Summit conquest, Elbrus was the first one. Splendid expedition, very good organization and , of course, when you travel with Alpine Ascents your are in 1st Class at the mountains with a 1st Class Guide: Vernon Tejas.