Mount Eolus Climber's Log

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ericd - Aug 13, 2023 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2023

I chose Eolus as #55!  Sucess!

Took the diesel train & hiked from Needleton whistlestop. Midday, so its a 3-hr hot haul to Chicago Basin. Then started on upper trail to chose Mt Eolus and N Eolus summits at the convenient Twin Lakes decision point. 3-hrs from basin to summit on big blocks, up a green chute, and a sunny catwalk. Evening traverse to N. Eolus and then down using a little time with the trusty headlamp.


birdhead - Feb 24, 2023 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2022

Four in a Day from Camp  Sucess!

Climbed Sunlight, Windom, Eolus, and North Eolus on the same day from our camp high in Chicago Basin. Ended up being around an 11 hour outing with an hour or so chilling on Windom and another hour at the lake before hitting Eolus. Sunlight summit block is not bad on the ascent, but a little tricky on the descent, and I'm 6'2". Windom had an awesome view. The end of Eolus surprised me with its difficulty but we were probably off route a bit. Super fun day!

Matt McCullough

Matt McCullough - Sep 16, 2022 10:41 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2022

Standard route in the mist  Sucess!

On the morning of my climb, clouds filled the Chicago Basin on the east while skies remained clear to the west. This resulted in a dramatic traverse across the "catwalk" with an obscuring mist on one side and a view all the way to the valley floor on the other.


BKiser90 - Aug 29, 2022 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2022

Chicago Basin #4  Sucess!

Summited after North Eolus on our last day in Chicago Basin. Started really early to make the train out. The catwalk is VERY fun. The route up the north face is a little challenging as it requires a little routefinding. Overall, a fantastic summit.


JesseSumrak - Aug 29, 2022 10:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2022

N. Eolus + Eolus  Sucess!

Had to get a very early start to get back in time to catch the train back to Durango. Made it up to North Eolus quickly (too quickly) and had to summit in the dark, which I didn't thoroughly enjoy leading since I had no idea where I was going. Regardless, it was relatively straightforward and we were on it well before sunrise. Waited for a bit of light before downclimbing and then beginning the catwalk over to Eolus. Woooooo exposure had me shaking in my boots, but then the way up Eolus from there was pretty straightforward. Easy way down and happy trails.


Scott - Aug 24, 2022 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2022

Mt. Eolus  Sucess!

July 1

The trip got off to a rough start. The weather forecast was bad for the weekend and in the morning we found that Shaylee had forgotten her shoes. She only had Crocs.

My dad, Shaylee, and I rode the Durango Silverton Train to Needleton and started hiking from there. We made it to Chicago Basin, but much of the hike was in the rain. The evening was pretty clear though.

July 2

We awoke to clear skies and 36 degrees F. Perfect. My dad, Shaylee, and I headed for Twin Lakes, but Shaylee and I split from my dad part way up.

Shaylee made it to 13,000 feet or so in her Crocs, but that was about all she could manage in those shoes, so she headed down. I continued up to the saddle between North Eolus and Eolus. I climbed Eolus first. It was a bit spicier than I expected.

I then headed back to the saddle and climbed North Eolus. It was a fun little scramble and pretty easy. I then headed back to camp. The weather held.

At around 7 PM and when we were eating dinner, the rain started.

July 3

It rained most of the night. Shaylee and I also found that our tent leaked and water dripped on our heads all night long. In the morning and in the rain, I set off to climb Sunlight Peak, hoping that it might clear later. I rained hard the whole way up towards Twin Lakes. Short of the lake, I gave up and gave back down. I didn't want Shaylee to have to wait in the rain either.

We packed up camp and then headed down to Needleton, where we caught the train a day early.

Missing the summit of Sunlight Peak was a bitter blow to me since I don't think I'll be able to make it back this year and I was hoping to finally finish off the 14ers.


JRaphaelson - Aug 15, 2022 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2022

Sunlight, Windom, Eolus, North Eolus  Sucess!

A tough but rewarding four peak challenge! In your face exposure for most of the day!


aarobkol - Jun 29, 2022 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2022

Eolus  Sucess!

I got to the basin via the train. The morning didn't bode well for summitting as by sunrise there was already fog covering the high peaks, but I tentatively pressed on. I got the the summit in a cloud and got down to camp about an hour before the rain and thunder began.

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Sep 8, 2021 8:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2021

Chicago Basin 4 pack (2nd of 4 14ers)  Sucess!

Started from the Purgatory TH around midnight. Summited after North Eolus. The route is straightforward if you’re patient and spot the cairns below the summit.


Kiefer - Aug 28, 2021 7:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2021

Iffy Weather  Sucess!

Second time up this. Went with Regina (wife). Weather forced us off the mountain after only a few minutes. Took shelter below, waited for the clouds to roll out and went back up and tagged North Eolus.


yadahzoemtn - Mar 15, 2020 10:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2019

One of my favorites  Sucess!

This is one of my favorite 14ers


Moogie737 - Aug 30, 2019 10:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2019

Eolus first, then North Eolus as an exclamation point  Sucess!

#1 08-27-19 W/ Yadazoemtn. 2nd day in the Chicago Basin, the 1st day having been taken up with Sunlight and Windom. Stunningly beautiful weather. Camped at 11,050' with plenty of other campers in the area and many curious but non-aggressive mountain goats. Still lingering snow in spots beyond Twin Lakes. Fun scrambling from "the notch" prior to the (easy) Catwalk. From there the route was fun. Dropped too far after the Catwalk but went back and found the correct (and well cairned) route. Recommend doing Eolus before North Eolus.


eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 11:54 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2018

Fun scrambling, approached from Purgatory Flats  Sucess!

Solo sunrise summit


Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 11:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2017

#17  Sucess!

The ridge walk to this one is one of the highlights of CO. Pretty nice glissade back to the lakes for this late in the season.

utclimber - Oct 16, 2016 5:14 pm

Standard route  Sucess!

One of my final 14ers in 2002 or 2003.


voxnihili - Aug 17, 2015 1:12 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2015

Fun  Sucess!

Fun climb. Excellent views.


astroclimber - Sep 20, 2014 10:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2014

Fun Trip  Sucess!

Fun strutting on the catwalk with Kat and Dave, but route finding on the face was a pain.

Senad Rizvanovic

Senad Rizvanovic - Jul 30, 2014 8:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2014

Great!  Sucess!

Nice climb to top of this beautiful mountain!


triyoda - Jul 15, 2014 12:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012

Beat the train  Sucess!

Bagged this one along with North Eolus in the morning before the walk out. Catwalk was kind of a disappointment, not as exposed (or at least as narrow) as everyone says. Great peak.


SarahThompson - Dec 29, 2013 7:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2005

Summer & Winter!  Sucess!

8/11/05 - Climbed via standard route with North Eolus and Glacier Point from camp in Chicago Basin.

12/24/13 - Backpacked in over the course of 2 days from train drop at Cascade. Climbed narrow NE ridge direct as part of a week long winter trip to Chicago Basin. Exposed 4th class scrambling over powder covered granite; serious stuff.

Viewing: 1-20 of 108
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