Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 1, 2004
If you are going to camp at the bottom of Forbes North Glacier then from glacier lake it takes 7-10 hours depending if you know where to cross the stream, stay on the left sife of the river and bushwhack instead of crossing it ten times, then wade through chest deep waters at the outlet of the lake with pack above head, don't worry the flow generally is not fast here, but it is brutally cold and you will be numb for at least an hour as it is 20m long and slow going. The other route involes going around the lake to the inlets which look inviting from a distance but there is more water volume there, the water is only waste deep but fast and the crossing is about 200m long with few breaks. you will not feel your legs and feet for two hours after this crossing, and I would not suggest it as it takes longer, you could be swept off your feet with ridiculous ease, icechunks come barraling down and cut your legs and after about the first four braids your legs start getting jabbing pains that make them collapse. If you do choose this happy route like us however, make sure not to go up the inviting green slope that will takeyou up to forbes, it will get you there but if you go to the large rock across the river where some people camp there is a much easier path. When you get to the cliffs, don't expose yourself, it isn't necessary, go on the green slope now and traverse above the cliffs where you are on a wide ledge and have only brief moments of exposure, use this route especially if doing a ski ascent. It is possible! If you are not climbing Forbes via rosita ridge then try in July when crevice field is filled in, in august these crevices are too long to jump (3m uphill) and span the entire glacier to en in horizontal crevices on the left and serac field on right. unless you brought a ladder or feel comfortable climbing down 20m and then back up the other side with a capable partner that can belay you, I suggest earlier in the summer.

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