Been here 4 times. Turned back by fires, rain(and dangerously high river crossing), and exhaustion.
May 2010 went back. Partners left me mid glacier(i was dead tired and useless) they summitted. I hate this mountain.
Second Canadian Rockies 11,000'er (first was Athabasca about one month earlier). ACC trip with Andy Evans as leader, Andy and another ACC gal (Colleen ?) did North Face route. Tim Bester and I did the standard West Ridge route. Prefect conditions, but a lot of forest fire smoke blocking our view.
Dave, Ferenc, and I started for the summit at 2am after having 3 hours sleep and a 14 slog to the base camp the day before. I ran out out of steam 300 meters from the summit. Dave and Ferenc made the summit. It was a beautiful climb though. The Glacier River crossing was extremely difficult due to high meltwater.
A wonderful day on a great mountain. Two of three in our party tagged the summit. The mountain was in excellent condition, lots of snow still at the end of July.