Worst snow conditions I have ever climbed in. Like slogging through waist deep quicksand.
Summitted 24 years after failed attempt in '97 with Rahil, Peter & Reza. From lowest Treasure Lake, climbed 300', 50deg snow chute NW of Pk 12,640+ to gain Gilbert's south shoulder. Shoulder is good quality talus. Dangerous post-holing last hour back to camp.
Having climbed Treasure Col last year, on a complete frozen mountain, just to climb to the unnamed peak South of the Col, I decided that I had enough of the Col and go up via the draining from Mt Johnson. The going wasn't bad, albeit long, but Mount Gilbert did not impress me much in technicality. From Gilbert I traversed to Johnson. It took 4 hour and 20 minutes from the South Lake parking lot to the summit of Gilbert.
This sandy route wouldn't have been so bad if one didn't have to drop a few hundred feet from the col before starting. Ah well, great views from the top!
Tedious slog from Treasure Col but the views make it worth the trouble. Trip report.
From South Lake. Soft snow turned this into a 15-hour slog
Solo from South Lake via the NE Ridge
Treasure Col is a loose chute and I do not like it. Boulder field is no fun.
A perfect ski outing on the NE slope. One continuous descent from the summit to South Lake. Perfect conditions all the way.
Don't think I've ever talked so much (with my dayhiking partners) than on this dayhike, one of the side effects of being a self-proclaimed and real life hermit.
A 3-peak day trying to beat the rain storm. Tagged Pk 12640, Gilbert and Johnson.
Traverse from Pk 12600.
Snowshoe and ski tour with Laura and Jim
Nice outing with perfect conditions over Treasure Col and found the basin on the other side east of Mount Johnson to be well work the slightly circuitous route. Only took about half a day but really enjoyable.
Front-pointing in trail runners sucks. I would have been happier in boots and with two tools, but it wasn't that sketchy, and sure beats the slog from Treasure Col. Trip report
Simul-climbed this with Robert Hanson in July in the early-mid '90s. Hard neve to actually some blue ice up high. Let a bottle of gin cooling in Treasure Lakes for martinis back at camp.
climb it late winter, first day of fishing season at South Lake. in search of ice but didn't find much. lead the 5.6 section and took my first lead fall. bled a little but nothing exciting.
Instead of climbing Treasure Col I climbed Peak 12,600 which is to the right of the Col, Class 3, there was a register there left by an SPS party in 1981, then I did the slog up to Gilbert, then to peak 12,800 South of Gilbert, then the N. Ridge of Johnson, very fun day.
up the east ridge and down the North Couloir