Climbed twice in successive days. First the arete: This scramble was just slightly disappointing, partly because I had built it up in my head for so long as a climb that would prove highly pleasurable and rewarding, and partly (more so) because high winds blowing directly across the arete prompted me to seek shelter in the chute on the left (north) and to take a line that was probably well shy of the exposed pitches that must have shaped the impressions of those expert scramblers who lauded this short route as a "classic." My cowardly line exposed me to very few sections that I considered to be harder than class 3, save the approximately 40 ft headwall below the summit. Still, the route was curious and intricate enough to prove stimulating, and the rock quality was indeed excellent.
I climbed what was ostensibly the West Shoulder route the next morning, with a full pack, so I could descend into Sabrina Basin. It was and remains hard for me to imagine that I succeeded in finding the actual West Shoulder route; the inefficiency and strangeness of the route-finding and the sheer mass and convolutedness of the west side of the mountain make it more likely that I discovered some unknown variation with a slightly higher difficulty.
The final climb was OK, but the approach took all the fun out of it. The trail from Sabrina Lake to Hungry Packer Lake might be the most beautiful trail in the Easter Sierra that I know of. But from the lake to the ridge and to the base of Haeckel is nothing but slog and misery. Flipping through the summit register I was surprised to see how popular is this summit. I would have never guessed. To me it seemed like an uninteresting summit.
Free soloed the arête and descended via the E Ridge route. 10h r/t from camp at Midnight Lake. Nice alpine route in heavy snow year. The arête is a lot more airy than it looks from afar.
group of 4 led by me. also bagged Mount Wallace same day.
Traversed to Wallace afterwards. Windy, cool on summit.
Awesome day with Mike B.
We (a group of 10) were planning on spending four days in the Sabrina Basin. I normally would never camp with a group of ten, but they are all experienced and it was very nice actually. We camped at Dingleberry Lake the first night and left in the morning to camp at Sailor Lake for the next two nights. On our way we ran into four groups that were coming from Mt.Haeckel. Three of the four groups were unsuccessful in summiting because of weather the previous day and one group had left Sabrina at 10am to day hike the peak and ran out of time. One group had summited and gave me a trail map and an up close pic of the NW Arete. All of the groups had crampons and ice axes and we only brought helmets as I did not think ice/snow would be a problem. The group that made it said we might not be able to make it without them. Our group of ten was not all planning on summiting. Nick, Gabe, and I were the only ones leaving camp at 6am to hopefully summit on the morning of the 1st. As we made our way up to the Haeckel Col we noticed a sliver of dirt running in between 2 ice slabs that would end up taking us to the beginning of the NW arete. The route to the top was solid with a class 4/5 crux leading to the summit block. Summited around 1130 and returned to camp by 2. Awesome trip overall! Def coming back
Fun route from a nice camp at Hungry Packer Lake.
Class 3 section was too short but a fun scramble on a beautiful Autumn dayhike from Sabrina. Traversed to Wallace.
Dayhike from Lake Sabrina. The SE face is a really fun climb with endless Class 3 route possibilities. Traversed over to Wallace afterwards.
The weather held out long enough for a summit and successful return.
Very nice ridge climb; crux was downclimbing into a notch, cruiser otherwise. TR at http://www.anderson.ucla.edu/faculty_pages/romain.wacziarg/climbing/EvolutionJune2014.html
Day 3 of SC13. Four of us did Haeckel & Wallace, great day.
More (soft) snow than expected on the approach, but nice scrambling on the ridge! We had no luck finding the descent route (lots of soft snow on the South side of the peak) so rapped back to the gully and easily descended that.
Climbed in one day from Lake Sabrina. Followed trails to near Hungry Packer Lake, then got on the ridge between Hungry Packer and Moonlight Lakes, which was followed around Picture Peak to the cirque between Haeckel and Wallace. Went up the SE face of Haeckel to the east ridge, then to summit. Loose class 3 rock with some class 3+ moves both up and down. Outstanding views from summit, but couldn't linger long under ominous skies. Got hailed and rained on on the way back.
Climbed NW arete as part of 27 hour c2c climb of Evolution Traverse. Very easy and quick scrambling compared to the rest of Evo. Ridge leading up to the arete from 13,332 is super fun and high quality.
Did a nice 4th class route on the SE Face. Weather was perfect.
Climbed Haeckel and Wallace from Moonlight Lake. By passed chimney in summit block to make a step around move to get onto the NW side of the summit block. Fun day out.
Over from Huxley on the way out after a long weekend in Ionian Basin. Climbed up the scree slope to the saddle with Wallace, then followed the south ridge straight to the summit. Easy to follow and I really enjoyed the route here, all the way to the summit. Descended more ledges straight down to the lake to the southeast and hiked out.
snow made it interesting.
Solo day trip, 5 hrs to summit. Used crampons to get to the col, but the snow was fairly soft. Started up the wrong ridge, climbed some in the gully, and finally got on the NW Arete. Downclimbing the arete was probably as fun as climbing up it though. Discovered on the way back that traversing the lake-shore on either side of Hungry Packer is not possible. I highly recommend the route!