Mount Hood Climber's Log

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Kristalea

Kristalea - Jun 18, 2018 1:03 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2018

Highpoint #21 Via Hogsback/Pearly Gates   Sucess!

One of my favorite climbs! We had a clear day and a view of the mountains' morning shadow. It was beautiful seeing Rainier from the summit and I loved the rock formations around Devils Kitchen. We didn't have to wait too long at the Pearly Gates.

tcingrum

tcingrum - Jun 17, 2018 12:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2016

Pearlies  Sucess!

Stayed cool for firm snowpack. All perspiration turned to frost up top. Bit of a bottleneck in the chute. Good day overall.

kevinsa

kevinsa - Jun 16, 2018 11:35 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2018

Mt. Hood  Sucess!

Took the left variation on the Pearly Gates as the right side had a short section of water ice that did not look appealing. Left side also required some step cutting to safely ascend. The mountain clouded over as soon as we summited. Glad we had GPS to get us back to 8000’ as visibility was very poor. Seven hours car-to-car.

WayneFry

WayneFry - Jun 15, 2018 2:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2018

Mazama Chute  Sucess!

We base camped at Illumination saddle with the intent of climbing the Leuthold couloir the next day. We discovered the route was melted out and chose to climb the Mazama chute. Fun climb on a cold sunny day.

justinveenhuis@gmail.com

justinveenhuis@gmail.com - Jun 5, 2018 5:07 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2018

South Side Route

Planned to stay at 9,000' with a weather forcast at the summit of 10mph wind, low of 37 and 0 precip. Stated blowing sustained 35 and alternating tiny sharp hail and rain at 8,500'. Waited an hour before turning back. It was a real bummer, second year coming from Michigan for this mountain just to get onit and be shut down by weather. Glad we did, there were a couple incidents later in that storm.

larch32

larch32 - Jun 4, 2018 10:43 pm Date Climbed: May 1, 2016

A break from Smith Rock  Sucess!

It was so icy and loud skiing down that I felt bad for interrupting the conversations of climbers. Otherwise, super!

Yulia Zi

Yulia Zi - May 13, 2018 11:25 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2018

Smooth climb with Timerline Mountain Guides (South Side)  Sucess!

Elliot from Timberline Mountain Guides was an excellent guide: knowledge and attitude wise. We were a group of three women who met last year climbing Mt.Rainier.

We enjoyed learning to short-rope and were blessed with the perfect conditions. I was wearing my Ice Climbing booth Scarpa Mont Blanc and did not get cold at all.

Thank you, Mt.Hood. Now I will be returning all of your routes unguided with the proper team.

oregonrpa

oregonrpa - May 9, 2018 10:51 am Date Climbed: May 7, 2018

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

4 hour summit from Timberline in perfect conditions. We arrived at the Hogsback with no other climbers ahead of us and then decided to take the Pearly Gates route. The Hogsback lined up well leading to base of the gates. Bergschrund starting to widen (less than 12 inches where we crossed). Route to summit was in great shape up the Hogsback and left side Pearly Gates.

Judd97

Judd97 - May 3, 2018 4:22 pm Date Climbed: May 3, 2018

HP# 27  Sucess!

Up the South Side through Pearly Gates. Pearly gates are in fantastic condition and with the Hogsback lining up perfectly. Looked better than Old Chute, in my opinion. Good snow, 1 AM start and (somewhat) low crowds. What a day!

Peaker

Peaker - Apr 25, 2018 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2018

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Went up the left pearly gates chute, decent amount of people on the mountain but we managed to be ahead of the largest crowds of the day. Great sunrise and expansive view on top.

wdimpfl

wdimpfl - Dec 22, 2017 4:32 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1969

Failed Attempt

During the summer of 1969 I drove to the Pacific Northwest with Nancy Rose from Oakland, CA to climb peaks in the Cascades. The first peak we were going to climb was Mt. Hood. I had hoped to climb a glacier on the west side of the mountain instead of the standard route. We hiked up past Timberline Lodge in fog the afternoon after we arrived at the road head. The next morning we passes over the SW ridge and began descending the ice to the glacier below. The climbing was too difficult for Nancy so we climbed back up to go up the hog's back route, ascending the glacier next to the SW ridge, dodging large rocks as they fell from the ridges on both sides. approaching the bergschrund we found that it was gaping and too dangerous for Nancy to do the difficult climb around the end to the right. We heard from another party that the crevasses on Rainier were difficult to negotiate this late in the season. Consequently we didn't climb Rainier either. When we got to Mt. St. Hellens the UC Berkeley hiking club member that was going to join us had bailed. It was also my first experience with a premenstrual woman. The trip was a bust, but educational!

justinveenhuis@gmail.com

justinveenhuis@gmail.com - Oct 30, 2017 8:35 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2017

Oops

I was pioneering a new alpine training technique where you sit around, drink beer and smoke cigarettes for a week before and stop suddenly and then climb a mountain. Doesn't work...

wyatt_meyers

wyatt_meyers - Oct 24, 2017 3:04 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2017

Incredible!  Sucess!

West rim variation for my first ice climb. Snow was already loosening up by 10am but we were well on our way down. Amazing views, 3am start which is recommended!

Mike D' - Oct 19, 2017 11:13 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2017

Ski  Sucess!

South climb / hogsback with skis, no cramp-ons so took it slow for snow to soften enough. Much slough on descent. (W/ Jon Carter)

live4hills

live4hills - Aug 7, 2017 3:34 am Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2017

Best climb ever  Sucess!

Probably the most fun hike I've ever had. Love my rainbow unicorns!

MissH

MissH - Jul 3, 2017 11:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2017

Just like 6 yrs ago  Sucess!

A lot less snow than 6 years ago and so much warmer. Still a very fun climb. Summited via Old Chute. Bergschrund too big for pearly gate route but that did look like a fun way.

k3vinlyu - Jun 22, 2017 3:41 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2017

South Side - Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Started at midnight and successfully reached the summit at about 8am on the second attempt (had terrible weather on the first attempt 2 days prior). It took a little longer than expected because of 6-12 inches of fresh snow around Hogsback and bottom half of the Pearly Gates. We were the first group to ascend, after it snowed, so we had to break our own trail. Went to the right side of the Gates (both sides are quite steep). The bergschrund had also opened up pretty wide. I've posted a full write-up with pics of the trip on Medium if anyone is interested (https://medium.com/@kevinlyu/becoming-a-mountaineer-625a07fa9ab0).

mwatts - May 12, 2017 8:19 pm

Re: Pearly Gates

mwatts - May 12, 2017 8:19 pm Date Climbed: May 5, 2017

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Started at 0300 Hours (Alpine Start) from the Timberline Lodge with TMG (Timberline Mountain Guides).

There were light winds - compared to the winds we faced on the summit - all the way up to Hogsback, where we roped up prior to traversing across and through the pearly gates.

Summited at 0730 Hours and descended shortly after due to high winds, low visibility and deteriorating conditions.

oregonrpa

oregonrpa - May 10, 2017 12:27 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2017

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Climbed standard south side route, Hogsback/Pearly Gates left chute, from Timberline under moonlit clear skies. Alpine start, 4 hour ascent with summit at 5:00 am. Below freezing temps and firm snow.

We put on crampons at the top of Palmer. Carried two ice axes and used them both on the descent. My climbing partner only had one axe, and did fine, but wished he'd had two.

The Hogsback appears to have possibly shifted a bit to the north compared to last year, and the ridge is not as sharp. The approach to the Pearly Gates was steeper and more exposed compared to May 2016, with the established foot path angling side hill and up at about the level of the Bergschrund. The crevasse was only opened about 5-6 inches on our ascent.

At the bottom of the left chute of the Pearly Gates we briefly waited to let a climber pass as he downclimbed. He stated that we had made it past the hardest part already, and after ascending the gates soon after, I'd agree. There were probably 4-5 people ahead of us, and another 4-5 directly behind us, with many more on their way, as expected. We were on the summit at 4:57, and it was bitter cold with a moderate wind.

It was too cold on top for us to wait 45 minutes for sunrise, so we descended to the top of the gates. At that point we decided to go back up to the summit to catch the sunrise and also warm up on the ascent! It was well worth it. We were on the summit alone when a solo climber arrived and stated it was his 170th summit! He was 66 years old.

Back at the top of the Pearly Gates we waited for a few climbers to ascend and then down climbed. A guided group had just fixed a rope and was waiting to ascend as we came through. By now there was significantly more climbers on their way up, and about 3-4 people behind us down climbing. We heard from several climbers that the Bergschrund had opened up and that a gal had fallen in part way but was uninjured.

Indeed the crevasse had opened up and now was a gaping hole with about a 10 foot wide snow bridge. Some climbers were going around to the south, some to the north, but at that point nobody was crossing the snow bridge. We chose to side hill above the Bergschrund to the north, requiring front pointing on the firm snow/ice, and went around the opened crevasse.

Back down on the lower Hogsback we noticed groups of climbers crossing the snow bridge. The crevasse looked to be about 5-6 feet wide at that point, which to me seemed too wide to take that chance!

Unfortunately we learned later that a climber fell to his death at about 1130 from just below the Pearly Gates. By then the sun was hitting that side of the mountain, and possibly this was a factor effecting the conditions. That is definitely a point with significant exposure, thus requiring careful attention and appropriate gear.

Overall it was a great morning to be on the mountain!

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