Mount Hood Climber's Log

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Sawtooth Scott

Sawtooth Scott - Jul 4, 2020 11:16 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2020

Old Chute Variation with Pete  Sucess!

We enjoyed very good weather for this late season ascent via the Old Chute. Wind was whipping at times and the snow was firm all the way to the summit. My usual climbing partners were not available, and as my wife would rather that I not solo, I used the services of TMG for this climb. Pete proved to be a delightful climbing partner and I very much enjoyed his good cheer and local knowledge of the mountain. This was a fun climb and from my perspective, a much better choice over the Hogsback this late in the season.

mattsim - Jun 18, 2020 1:04 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Mountaineers Intermediate Climb  Sucess!

We hiked in and slept on a ridge fairly low. In the morning we hoofed up early before any other groups were moving. Crossing the slab was a little disconcerting, just get through there without loitering. Big stuff rolls through. The summit area is snug, we were the 2nd group up and waited for party #1 to clear before getting our summit photos.

lldeboer - Jun 15, 2020 9:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2020

West Crater Rim   Sucess!

First time on Hood. Went up West Crater Rim and came down Old chute. Excellent weather at the summit with rain/snow lower down.


guerinak - May 28, 2020 10:37 pm

Epic spring ski  Sucess!

Spring break ski trip. Skied from the summit via Pearly Gates in amazing conditions. Such a fun climb/ski!


chrisc - May 16, 2020 6:43 pm Date Climbed: May 15, 2020

2020 Successful Climbs   Sucess!

Trip Reports:
5/15/20 Flying Buttress & Wy'east
3/18/20 DKH V2
2/23/20 Steel Cliffs South Face


freedeep - Mar 25, 2020 8:40 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 1992

Practice climb for Mt Rainier  Sucess!

One of our training hikes for Mt Rainier included summiting Mount Hood. Watch out for rockfall down the south face of Mt Hood.


cascadescrambler - Aug 5, 2019 11:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 1981

Top of Oregon  Sucess!

Two day climb via Illumination Rock


McCannster - Jul 8, 2019 8:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2019

#43  Sucess!

Lovely morning outing, made quick work of the South Side/Coalman Glacier/Old Chute route to the top, caught sunrise, and booked it down back in time for breakfast.


Lenny72 - Jun 30, 2019 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2019

Awesome Climb  Sucess!

Woke up at midnight on the 23rd to no visibility and high wind so waited until the morning of the 24th. Conditions were still windy but clear and cold. Ascended from Timberline Lodge up the South Side via the Old Chute and descended the same way. The view from the summit was amazing.


bluecappo - Jun 18, 2019 12:17 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2016

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Stoked to finally make it up this busy mountain. Took some time to get used to hiking near groomers at night - not your typical NW ascent. Was also the windiest climb I've experienced; I now typically throw in a set of ski goggles with my gear because of this climb.


chrisc - May 15, 2019 3:56 pm Date Climbed: May 9, 2019

Reid Headwall Summit!  Sucess!

Summited May 2019. Full trip report here!

Xander Culver - May 12, 2019 11:31 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 2019

Oh Yeah!  Sucess!

So good!


LarryEnglish - May 11, 2019 12:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 1963

Timberline Lodge, Hogsback  Sucess!

With fellow UO grad students Frank and Doug. Started 4:00 AM, summit 8:00 AM, first there. Walked the ridge until the clouds cleared and we could see down the other side. Not sure of date but a Friday in July, '63.


chrisc - May 3, 2019 4:05 pm Date Climbed: May 3, 2019

North Face Summit!  Sucess!

Summited May 2019. Full trip report here!

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Apr 30, 2019 8:16 am Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2019

nice and quick hike up  Sucess!

Started from Timberline Lodge and summited just at beautiful sunrise. The hike/climb went easier and faster than expected. No ropes needed.


theoglick - Apr 7, 2019 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2017

Solo climb, standard south side route  Sucess!

A beautiful day for climbing, and Hood was a bucket-lister for me, so I was very stoked to finally get up there. Up and down the Old Chute, and enjoyed 20 minutes of solitude on the summit.


travel_murse - Mar 20, 2019 2:12 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2019

Hogsback  Sucess!

Seeing the perfect triangle mountain shadow made me question reality.


billydheyhey - Nov 19, 2018 7:20 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2017

HP #21!  Sucess!

All snow, minimal trees, with a slight scent of sulfur on this volcano..

Saw sunrise at the top though, with the shadow of the mountain across the wilderness, which was unbelievable.


kronshage3 - Jul 22, 2018 12:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2018

Via Old Chute  Sucess!

Awesome day on Hood. All sun with a little breeze at the top. Probably around 12 people that made summit today, pretty small for a weekend (but I guess it is late season). The bergschrund is enormous. It could probably swallow up every skier at the resort and still have room. The Pearly Gates really did not look reasonable to climb. Old Chute is in good condition except for the small crevasse right below it. It was completely dark when I was at the Hogsback, so I made my best judgement with what I could see. You could probably go even further to the left of Old Chute for some even better conditions. Rock fall and ice fall was not bad along the route. I heard a TON of rockfall off route though, kinda closer to the Steel Cliff area. Look out for the other small crevasses in the area. You won't fall in, but you could very well get half of your body jammed in if you misstep.


Tristanh - Jul 16, 2018 9:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2018

Summer south side ascent and dilemma on Pearly Gates vs. Old Chutes route to summit  Sucess!

We had beautiful weather and stable late season conditions for a successful summit attempt on Mt Hood via the left alternative Pearly Gate approach (continue reading for more info and see link for at bottom).

We were a team of two and knew that the window is closing fast on summiting safely due to increased risks with rock/snow fall on the higher parts of the mountain. We decided to go up mid-week to avoid crowds and associated risks. We arrived at the Timberline lodge car park late afternoon and hiked up to camp on the right side of the top of Palmer chair lift/ski area. We woke up at 1:30am and left by 2:30am to get a head start on the summit as we planned to be on the way down from summit and below Pearly Gates well before 8am when sun starts to warm
up the mountain and increase chances of rock/ice fall.

We got Crater Rock and at base of Hogsback just as daylight was breaking. We met two other climbers (cousins from from Beaverton, OR) and we were reviewing conditions and options on which approach to take to the summit (Pearly Gates vs Old Chutes). We had printed several images and maps of the Southside of the mountain which helped review options. The Bergschrund ‘crevasse’ was quite wide above the Pearly Gates but there was still a small section on the right side against mountain which was unaffected and could be traversed safely. With the increase in temperature this summer, the Bergschrund will most likely soon cut all the way across to the right making the Pearly Gates approach inaccessible and very dangerous.
We started going up the main Pearly Gate (on the right) but eventually found out that the last section was too steep and icy at this time of the season and would have been extremely difficult and dangerous on the way down (despite being well equipped).

We descended slightly and instead took the left Pearly Gate alternative which wasn’t as steep, icy and felt much safer.
We then made it to the summit shortly after 6am after a short walk on the right side.

We spent 10min enjoying the incredible views of the other major cascade volcanoes and made our way down swiftly without stopping until we were under the Crater Rock and in a safer part of the mountain.

The other climbers we met eventually went up the Old Chute and so did another group of 4 we saw. They however took quite a while to come down and around the Bergschrund onto the Hogsback. There are pros/cons to either approach which you can read about online.

Here is a quick video of our adventure:

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