Goal was the Old Chute route. Alpine start, all three of us on zero sleep that night and very little the night or two before. Got turned back at Devil's Kitchen due to fatigue and poor conditions. Rain below soaked us through, turned to ice higher up, making buckles and zippers useless. Next time!
Climbed and skied many routes
South Side (Old Chute) route under a clear sky and 70% moon. We departed Timberline at about 2am and made the summit about 10am. I'd recommend an earlier summit if possible, as the sun was starting to melt out some small ice chunks around the crater rim while we traversed over to the chute from the Hogsback. While most of the route above Palmer is in the 20-35 degree range, the chute was MUCH steeper than the listed 35 degree max incline - somewhere in the 50-60 degree range.
There were between 50-100 people up there on this Friday morning.
This was one of my top three climbs. this day is was a bit more then 45* slope closer to 60* but way fun we showed up the day before to see the mountain socked in to a poin where the ski hill was not visible to catching a glimpse then back to nothing. we camped at 2000ft at the Camp Springs camp ground road as it was not open yet then. I woke up at 12:20 to clear skies and started climbing at 1:30 beautyful conditions styrofoam snow and light wind for most of the way. Thank you Mt. Hood for the great suprize after such a rollercoaster of a 12 hour drive.
beautiful clear day on the mountain
Steeper than I thought it would be. Glad to have the short ax in addition to the long. Devil's kitchen was particularly nasty and left my eyes feeling like I'd just chopped an onion, other than that, beautiful day for a climb.
Was sucessfull in my 3rd attempt, got to the summit with Reggie, and Christine, felt great to finally get the summit done
Made it up last summer in gnarly weather, but beautiful views from the top!
Started at about 145, was trying to beat a weather system. I lost. Mist condensed on me until about 9500, then it became ice. Visibility was lousy, but I went on as several guide groups had made wonderful tracks to follow. They turned back at the hogs back, but I made the final ascent and then came down. By the time I was at the top of the palmer I still had a quarter inch of ice on me. Pretty entertaining in that regard. Made it down by 8, so it was a fast run despite the weather.
Climbed with Dan Trout
Excellent conditions made this a great climb. If in doubt route finding, go climbers left.
Complete white out! only saw 5 others on the mountain that day. everyone summitted
Good times on a beautiful mountain!
The Leuthold Coulior in December is a strange place to learn ice climbing. We spent the first night at Illumination saddle. The wind destroyed my tent so we had to dig a snow cave. Later that evening another man joined us after he was unable to erect his tent in gale force winds. The following day, in the coulior, we found thin ice covered the steepest parts of the hourglass. Constant icefall bombarded us, thankfully no large pieces. We downclimbed the standard route.
Pretty simple (But fun) climb. We summited at 8:00 AM. On decent there were a lot of people knocking ice loose... I was struck in the hand with one of these rather large blocks. No injury, just got me nice and pissed off. I would make sure and wear a helmet if you are going to be near the pearly gates/hogsback later in the day. I'm from Portland, so it was a pretty fun day trip!
Conditions were good and it was not crowded. On the way up we saw tents at around 9,000 (I hadn't seen people camping there before). Part way up we could see a team climbing from the Cooper Spur direction. About 30% were doing the Pearly Gates, the rest doing the Old Chute. I saw one or two teams going by the saddle to Leuthold Couloir. The Bergschrund was open extended down to intersect with the path of the Old Chute, which now is rerouted to simply go over the Hogsback (at 90 degrees rather than traversing the Hogsback) and down in the direction of Leuthold. There is a narrow snow bridge (over a deep crack) at the bottom where the vents have melted a bunch of snow. You ascend some super soft volcanic soil to before going pretty directly up the slope. Here is the worst part for this route: even though there weren't a whole lot of people, you have to climb up and down fairly exposed to ice fall from above caused by other climbers zig-zagging up or down. Progress was slowed by everyone shouting "ice" or "roller" every minute or so. And there is a lot more exposure to ice fall (natural and man-made) than the Old Old Chute path. Anyway, the trip was successful. We skiied/snowboarded down from Palmer (it was tough on tired legs) and we avoided that awful slog back to the parking lot. It was an awesome trip!
Summited with my buddy Eric. This was my 4th summit, and my 6th or 7th attempt. Conditions were generally good, but the berg was open quite low and so the old chute route started low and as a result there was a long exposure to icefall (man made and natural) - much more than I'd seen in the past. Nice day. Skiied down from Palmer.
Pearly Gates and on up. Windy and cold!
Camped @ Illumination after barely finding it in a whiteout. Awoke to crystal clear but very cold weather. Very faceted snow and postholing led us up Leathold instead of our planned Sandy Glacier Headwall route. Stellar day that turned into an inferno later!