Mount Hood Climber's Log

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jtschanz - Jul 15, 2002 11:38 am

Route Climbed: S. Side Date Climbed: June 22, 2002  Sucess!

Summitted Mt. Hood on the second try. Unfortunately, combination of lack of sleep and fumes from devil's kitchen caused some "severe discomfort", but the hogsback and pearly gates was awesome!

BicRungee - Jul 10, 2002 4:38 pm

Route Climbed: south side Date Climbed: June 2000  Sucess!

Climbed with peter, robin & LJo. Skied descent from about 9,500 feet. Beats walking.


barry - Jul 1, 2002 5:20 pm

Date Climbed: may25 2000  Sucess!

had fun the first time and came back


barry - Jul 1, 2002 5:18 pm

Date Climbed: april 15 2000  Sucess!

fun hike


marcminish - Jun 24, 2002 2:54 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback/SouthSide Date Climbed: 5/28/02  Sucess!

Some really amazing scenery as we were moving up Hogsback at about 9:00PM. Crossed the schrund just as night fell. Not a difficult climb by any stretch, but really a fun way to take in some great views. Summitted with my buddies Paul Ivaska and Jim Poe.


tbnelson - Jun 10, 2002 9:22 am

Route Climbed: Southside/Palmer Glacier/HOgsback Date Climbed: June 8, 2002  Sucess!

Summitted at 8:50 AM the day after the mountain reopened after the May 30th Bergshrund Fall/Helicopter Crash. We started are ascent during a brief break in the weather at quarter to four in the morning. We experienced gusts of winds to 40-50 mph with spindrift causing drifts that we postholed to thigh-deep in some places. As we were getting ready to retreat at about 10,000 feet we bumped into a solo climber from Vancouver and the weather looked as if it was breaking. By the time we reached the top of the Hogsback we had very little wind and were experiencing crystal blue skies. We summitted with spectacular conditions at the top on a summit nobody had stood upon for over a week. The ten other climbers that had registered on Friday and Saturday turned back. Our descent was in relatively good weather with clouds and snow developing as we returned to the Timberline Lodge parking lot. We were interviewed by Portland's Channel 8 News. We then left for an unsuccessful ski ascent and descent of Mount Adams.

Great Summit. Sobering to think of the three deaths as we passed the 'shrund. We look forward to Eliot Glacier next year.

Paul Burkholder

Paul Burkholder - Jun 2, 2002 8:39 pm

Route Climbed: Southside, Old Crater Variation Date Climbed: May 30,2002  Sucess!

We took the Old Crater Variation after seeing too many slow moving climbers in the area between the bergschrund and the Pearly Gates. Our time on the summit was beautiful, our descent became a nightmare. 3 separate teams below us all fell into the bergschrund, 9 people total, 3 died. Then just when we thought the last seriously injured person was going to be airlifted out, the helicopter crashes. Unbelievably, there were no more deaths. We had planned to go to Rainier the next day, but our hearts weren't in it. At this time, I have no desire to ever climb Hood again.

ADDED July 13, 2004: Time has a way of changing things. After 2 years I decided I didn't want my last memories of Mt. Hood to be so negative. Thursday afternoon I drove 500 miles to the Timberline parking lot. Friday morning I nearly ran up the south side to the summit. It was beautifully cold and I was wonderfully, unbelievably . . . alone. I made my peace with Mt. Hood and then began a slow, relaxed descent back to the truck.

monkeyboy - May 20, 2002 8:09 pm

Route Climbed: Southside Date Climbed: 5-18-02  Sucess!

Flying Solo

Cascade High - May 20, 2002 11:10 am

Route Climbed: South Side Route Date Climbed: April 25, 2002  Sucess!

Started hiking at 11:30 PM on 4/25/02 from Timberline lodge. Stashed skis at Silcox hut. Made it to the top of Palmer lift at 2:45 AM. Used crampons from then on. We didn't need headlamps most of the time because the full moon provided enough light for climbing. The wind was fierce and the temperature was COLD! Our water was freezing up fast. We were thankful for the sun as we climbed the Hogsback. The wind died down and the temperature rose slightly. Summited at 6:30 AM. You can't ask for a much more beautiful place to watch the sunrise. Roped up on the way down. With only two people in our climbing party, the descent went fast. Started high-speed glissading just below Crater Rock. Made it to our skis at the Silcox. We tried to keep from falling for the quick journey to the car. We arrived at the car @ 9:30 AM. This was a great start to what looks to be a wonderful climbing year! Shane & Matt


synne.chadwick - May 18, 2002 5:26 am

Route Climbed: South side Date Climbed: June 1999  Sucess!

Summited on an overcast and foggy day. The hogsback is a real slog, and not very steep. If I were to do it again, I would try the Leuthold colouir.


jthiessen - May 14, 2002 11:15 am

Route Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: May 10, 2002  Sucess!

We took the long route and walked from Timberline Lodge starting at 12:30 a.m. Reached the top of Palmer at about 3:00 a.m. with very few teams on the mountain that day. The clouds broke about that time and we had good weather the rest of the day with no wind. Next time I will bring skiis for the ride back down because walking down the Palmer was no fun at all.


Hammer - May 7, 2002 2:54 am

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 4, 2002  Sucess!

Climbed the South side anticipating the weather to change for the worse. However, the weather cooperated and we made good time up to the Palmer. We attempted gaining shelter at the Palmer Ski Lift House but an over zealous snow cat driver kept having us move out of his way. After a short time there and a little instruction on how to put on crampons to my buddy (first snow climb ever) we were off. Devil's Kitchen was in high gear and the stink was extra incredible even with the sustained winds. After reaching the Hogsback and roping up with Carl (from Reno), the five us made our way up past the slightly open 'schrund to the summit. Wind on the summit was bitter cold so our time there was short. The descent down was uneventful except for watching the lenticular clouds move in and decrease visibility for a short time. Glissading conditions were less than optimal, however, being the skilled shovel rider that I am, I made my way down the mountain at a quick rate. (My ass feels the pain today however)

Noah (Oregon)

Noah (Oregon) - Apr 29, 2002 2:22 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: April 21st, 2002

Whose ideas was it to encourage people to climb through the night? I was just so exhausted. I really liked the way I did it last year when we started in the afternoon, camped at triangle moraine and then summited the next morning. I climbed with Gabe from the parking lot at Timberline to the summit and back. We were out for a total of about 9 hours (counting several very long rest breaks where I actually considered just going to sleep). I was just too tired. I didn't get my second wind until the Hogsback. It turned out to be a lot of fun but the fist three hours were the definition of a slog. As for the climb itself... Most people were in small two or three person groups. It was below freezing and hadn't snowed in several days. Roping up was not necessary but we did anyway at Crater Rock. The bergschrund was only about 18 inches wide. The chance of stonefall near Crater Rock and the Pearly Gates was pretty minimal due to lots of snow encrusting all the rock faces. It was a great day to climb with few people on the route and a beautiful sky. That said, it was quite windy. It was actually hard to stand still and take good pictures on the summit (during the time I was there around 7:45am) due to some big gusts. Nonetheless, it was a great climb and I can't wait to go back and climb it solo or with my wife (but not from the parking lot at 1:00 in the morning).

*No real bergschrund in April of 2002.

*No need for snowshoes (some people were carrying them).

*Water in waterbottles froze; took thermos.

*Starting at 1 am and climbing through the night sucks.

*Too much sulfur (near Crater Rock) made me really dizzy.

*Sleep is important. Sleep is good.

*Mt. Hood is wonderful and beautiful!


Hammer - Apr 23, 2002 5:29 am

Route Climbed: Leuthold Couloir Date Climbed: March 3, 2002  Sucess!

Zancudo and I set out from the parking lot at 4:40 A.M. after a worthless attempt of sleep at the Mazama Lodge. Pace was pretty good to the top of the Palmer and across to Illumination Saddle. The descent down onto the Reid was a little hairy and we ended up back tracking slightly after reaching a point where I didn't feel all that comfortable. Crossed the Reid and then roped together to make the ascent up the Colouir through the Hourglass. Lots of small ice rained down on us pretty much the entire time we were going through the Hourglass until we reached the Queen's chair. We took a nice break as a group that we knew came up on us. After a little BSing they went ahead and we followed up the last slopes to the summit ridge where we enjoyed a great summit.

Zancudo - Mar 8, 2002 11:38 am

Route Climbed: Luethold Date Climbed: 3-3-02  Sucess!

See Hammer's note below. Good route, should have done it when it was colder to limit the ice fall. The summit ridge was really cool.


scot'teryx - Mar 4, 2002 10:43 am

Route Climbed: Hogsback (South Side) Date Climbed: 03/03/02  Sucess!

Left at 6am. Reached the top of the Palmer lift via skinning around 8am. Really icy conditions above the Palmer lift. Hardly any people on the route (8 ahead of us or so), even though it was a gorgeous day with no clouds and the sun was shining brightly. Winds were high, but once at Crater Rock they did diminish. Stashed our skis and made the ascent up the Hogsback Route unroped (not necessary, no bergshrund). The sulphur mixed with the blazing heat and the altitude made me alittle queasy a couple of times. Upper Hogsback and Pearly gates were not nearly as bad as I have read. Topped out around 11am. Noticed a few groups that had come up the Reid Glacier, Leuthold Couloir, and Youkam (sp?) Ridge. Descent was quick, and we got our skis on and were ready to go. No matter what anyone tells you, Plastic mountaineering boots and randonnee skis on ungroomed snow really sucks.

Noah (Oregon)

Noah (Oregon) - Feb 8, 2002 4:39 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 2001  Sucess!

I loved this climb and though it is often crowded on the standard (S. Side) route, we found a great way to avoid the majority of other climbing parties. Instead of leaving from Timberline in the inky, a.m. darkness, we simply climbed up to Triangle Morain in the previous afternoon and set up a little camp (around 9000 ft). This allowed us to get the "slog" part of the climb out of the way, eat and sleep before the real fun started the next morning. I really recommend this extended version. You get to watch the sunset and the lights of Portland come on. You also get to sleep and still you are on the summit early enough to watch the sunrise. There were only three people on the summit before us that day. As we made our way down, swarms of climbers who had started in the night were still coming up from Timberline Lodge.


Guilty - Jan 8, 2002 1:04 am

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: August 3, 1995

Departed from the lodge at 5:40am, solo behind a two hikers to the chair. Not knowing the route but skied here a few times, I followed the most travel path. From what I am familiar with, I travel light and fast. Using techniques from climbing in the Sierra's, I was able to find a route without the use of ice axe or crampons to the summit at 9:40am. I took some photo's had a snack and left at 10am. I went pretty slow & careful until the bergschund. After jumping it, (here the fun starts) I pulled out my space blanket and flew down. I descended in 1 hour to the lodge.


RStokes - Dec 21, 2001 6:20 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: July 31, 2000  Sucess!

July 31st is usually considered the last day of the typical climbing season for Mt. Hood. This is for a good reason. We departed Timberline Lodge at 2am and summited about 8:30am. The bergshrund atop of the Hogsback and below the Pearly Gates was wide open. Climbers had beaten a path around both sides of the bergshrund, we opted for the left-hand side. The Pearly Gates were in poor condition with spotty snow and loose scree. Desending through here would have been near impossible so we choose to take the variation down that avoids the Pearly Gates to the west. Views: Awesome! With Mt. Hood's conical profile, check out the shadow it casts at sunrise, if you happen to be up high on the mountain at that time.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Nov 21, 2001 9:38 am

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: 5/19/01

My first attempt at Hood was a lesson in what NOT to do. Packed too much food and extra weight and went in almost brand new La Sportiva Makalus. My heels were bloody and raw by the time we put crampons on just below the top of the Palmer Chair Lift. Was basically limping up the next stretch towards Crater Rock when it started getting really windy. At the base of Crater Rock my friend Mark and I sat to rest and almost fell asleep several times. The wind was almost knocking us over at this point and we decided to turn back as most of the climbers we could see were doing the same. As we descended the wind was strong enough that our rope was held horizontal in the air. Gusts knocked us over a few times and we self-arrested. Once we got back down to the ski area it was okay. Found out later that the winds were about 60-70 mph. Felt bad about not summitting but still think we made the right decision as the mountain was not going anywhere. A few weeks later we did summit in perfect conditions and had a great time doing it.

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