Mount Hood Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 643

Damone - Jul 1, 2005 6:01 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 25th  Sucess!

Beautiful day to climb. Once again the weather report was wrong, and we never got rain. Good climb, but next time I'm sleeping beforehand. So tired on Saturday.


esugi - Jun 26, 2005 6:45 pm

Route Climbed: Hogs Back Date Climbed: 6/26/05  Sucess!

Forecast called for chance of drizzle but ended up being a beautiful morning. Left parking lot near 1:00am. Summitted at 5:20am. Back at the car at 8:00am. Easy climb under ideal conditions.

modeboy - Jun 23, 2005 12:39 pm

Route Climbed: south side Date Climbed: 6-21-2005  Sucess!

warm yet very windy day. left the lodge around 5am and summited at 8:30am. snow pack was great. the berg is open in the middle. traversed to the left over a snow bridge. not too much ice fall. glacading down was fun.


dkantola - Jun 14, 2005 8:16 pm

Route Climbed: Sunshine Route Date Climbed: June 12, 2005  Sucess!

Traversed the mountain from the Tilly Jane trailhead to Timberline Lodge via the Sunshine Route with Brian Jenkins. We took the short trail from the Cooper Spur rock shelter down onto the Eliot at 6800 ft, then ascended between Cooper Spur and the lower icefall until we reached the level part of the glacier below the upper icefall. We crossed the glacier there to reach the Snow Dome.

The 100 m steep slope at Anderson Rock went quickly while we still had firm snow, but the 300 m rising traverse above Horseshoe Rock's bergschrund took forever to cross and protect in soft snow. About half the placements were pickets and the other half T-slots. Reaching Cathedral Ridge was a great feeling because I knew we could be on autopilot from there to the summit and on down to Timberline. High velocity glissades from Crater Rock to Silcox were thanks to my patented Glissade System.


Pawkala - Jun 11, 2005 5:34 pm

Route Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: June 10, 2005  Sucess!

Well, my third time to the summit of hood came on a not so nice day. The last 2 days before the trip brought beautiful weather. We got the tail end of that nice weather on the way up but got stuck in the clouds just below the hogsback. Winds were mild until the top and there was plenty of good steps all the way up. We had a late departure and had some softer than preferable snow but was plenty hard at the top. I set a running belay for the newbees that were with me and it worked well. The trip helped out my orienteering skills in a white out. Hope this NW rain stops soon making way for more grand adventures.

Pmercer - Jun 7, 2005 5:14 pm

Route Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: June 3rd, 2005  Sucess!

After two days of storms --left Timberline at 3:15 am and arrived on Hogsback at 8:00, It took another two hours to Summit due to crowds and conditions. The pearly gates were pretty icy at the top, however, the views from the top were never better!!!


DagiTig - Jun 6, 2005 4:28 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 4, 2005  Sucess!

This was my first time up Mt. Hood, and I couldn't have asked for better conditions. We left Timberline at 1:30 am on a perfectly clear night and summited at 8:00 am. The weather was great and the view was outstanding!


jtostenr - Jun 6, 2005 1:33 am

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 5th, 2005  Sucess!

We left the car at 9PM Saturday night and made the summit at about 5AM. It was a big group and only one of us had been to Hood before, so the going was slow. The weather was nice until we hit the Pearly Gates. From then on, there were high winds and low visibility. We summited and made it back safely, so all in all it was a good trip.

leedog12 - Jun 4, 2005 6:24 pm

Route Climbed: Southside Date Climbed: June 4th, 2005  Sucess!

My 11th summit conquest of Hood was a nice day with mostly sunny skies and very light wind. This was my last chance to climb Hood for a while so I figured I'd head up even though the forecast was iffy. Got a late start, left the Lodge at 5:45 am but managed to summit in 3 hours 30 minutes. Back to the car in 2 for a personal speed record of 5.5 hours round trip. I guess I should thank all the climbers from Memorial day weekend for the killer steps.


dkantola - Jun 2, 2005 12:30 am

Route Climbed: West Crater Rim Date Climbed: May 30, 2005  Sucess!

A nice solo excursion on the third anniversary of the copter crash. Postholing through avy debris around Crater Rock wasn't pleasant, but above 10,500 ft the crust became more solid. There were lots of runnels to cross, thankfully carrying no ice or rock fall at 6:00 a.m. I hung out in the Pearly Gates for a while on the way down waiting for a horrendous traffic jam to clear. Summit 12 out of 17 attempts.

Isometric - Jun 1, 2005 5:42 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 30, 2005  Sucess!

Diverted from West Crater Rim because of unknown bergschrund conditions, but a beautiful climb just the same. Big bottleneck at the Pearly Gates had several early summiters waiting to get back down. A couple of rope teams even tried to come down while there were parties going up. Yikes! Thankfully no accidents and a sunny, breezy view from the summit. Due to delays on the Hogsback, the descent was a little mushy until Silcox, when it turned into a knee-shattering dust and loose rock extravaganza. 16 hours is a long time to spend on the mountain, especially with so much company, but it was still worth it.


amochka - May 31, 2005 7:11 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 30, 2005  Sucess!

Great conditions, clear night with exceptional moon, bergschrund wide open, passed it on the left. A few too many rope teams passing each other up and down the Hogsback for my comfort, but what did I expect on Memorial Day weekend?

I enjoyed my last climb up Hood much more (in March, no rope teams on the mountain and about 10 climbers total the whole day). Can easily see how accidents happen up here with so many people crawling all over the Hogsback and Pearly Gates. Next up for me: a DIFFERENT route!! Great glissading on the descent though, and good company on the climb.

Scott Dusek

Scott Dusek - May 30, 2005 9:18 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

Jefferson here I come


rangermike - May 28, 2005 1:18 pm

Route Climbed: Southside/ Hogsback Date Climbed: May 25 2005  Sucess!

Great day on the mountain! Almost skipped climbing due the wind at the parking lot, but went anyway. It was a beautiful sunrise, with a clear view all the way south to Diamond Peak! The wind suddenly stopped at about 9,000' and with the sun shining and clear skies, it was pretty warm. Definately glad I was wearing my helmet- once the sun hit the South side, there was a lot of ice fall. Warm, windless, sunny and clear at the summit. Looonngg glissade back to the parking lot.


jtschanz - May 16, 2005 2:01 pm

Route Climbed: South Side, Hogsback Date Climbed: May 14, 2005  Sucess!

Slept in the back of the car in the Timberline parking lot while it poured all night. Seeing all of the wet, cold climbers coming back down reporting bad weather, we finally decided to skip the climb, and went for the all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast at the lodge. Midway through the second waffle (with all the toppings), the sun came out, so we headed up to do some skiing. The fog came back in, but somehow we ended up at the hogsback, getting short glimpses of the mountain from time to time. We carried our skis up, reached the top, and skied from the summit. Skiing the Pearly Gates in the fog was a bit scary, but the visibility improved and the rest of the descent was pure fun. Back to the car at 7pm - pizza and beer at 8.


rpc - May 10, 2005 2:13 pm

Route Climbed: Multiple Date Climbed: Multiple

May 7, 2005 via Wy’East – Steel Cliffs: Part of the Adv. Snow & Ice class. Bad weather at Timberline – clear above ~7K level. Met Haydar (hkutuk) at Tline. Other than the slog along Palmer, nice (quite beautiful actually) climb. Some short sections of sh*tty snow high up. First alpine climb of the season and we was draggin’ ass.

May 6, 2002 via South Side – West Crater Rim: Second ascent this season. Went up from Timberline lodge to top of Palmer at which point we climbed to the west side of the Crater Rock. Up some steep (well consolidated) snow to the top of the rim. The rim traverse to the true summit over a narrow ridge covered by a snow cornice was interesting. Descended via Hogsback. Windy all the way. The berg at Hogsback was open and about 1 foot wide. Good conditioning.

April 22, 2002 via South Side: Started at a very reasonable hour of 5:30am from Timberline. Conditions were excellent throughout the day. Snow got relatively worse above Crater Rock where a 1 foot layer of soft/wet snow concealed an icy layer underneath. Hogback was icy. The 'berg' was about 4 inches wide at this time. No roping up on the way up/down although did see multiple roped parties descending and sliding all over the place. Nice windless summit.

Mid-June, 2001 via South Side: Snow-cat fumes up to end of Palmer are enough to make one high as a kite - along with the snow grooming equipment they're a pain for the first part of the climb.

Beautiful sunrise though.


hkutuk - May 10, 2005 12:27 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: Multiple  Sucess!

South Side (May 7, 2005)

What was to be a provisional lead for me had 11 people signed up, but the weather at midnight turned 6 away and the remaining waited in the late hours of the night until we heard the word that the upper mountain was clear so went for it just before 4am. Perfect conditions all the way to the summit once through the low bad weather layer. Coming down one of our members broke through the snow bridge and fell into the schrund as we went into self arrest, he managed to prussik himself out unhurt. Turned out to be an exciting climb.

South Side (April 24, 2004)

Found the ideal way of climbing Hood, on skis during a nice sunny day. Skinned up to just below Hogsback. The snow was ideal for skinning. By the time we got to Hogsback it was midday and the sun was baking, had no water left, no helmet nor crampons but soft snow allowed climbing in heavy ski boots. Watched a skier trigger a slab avalanche on the WCR, luckyly he escaped it. The schrund is passable but one crack is opening on the left and another weird hole on the right. Never been on the summit at 1pm before. Skied all the way down and was glad didn't have to do the long walk on soft snow.

Sourh Side (March 13, 2004)

Climbed with Scott P. and Sue N. It was a clear and breezy night and despite the high freeze levels found the snow frozen from the start at 1am. The hogsback was steeper and icier than usual and there was quite a bit of ice funneling through the Pearly gates mostly beause of careless climbers coming down. We made good time and were greeted by the tens of climbers going up as we were coming down in the early hours of the morning. Topped the climb with some rock climbing at Horsethief Butte.

South Side (June 8, 2003)

After a month long army duty at home was not sure if still in climbing shape, but was a strong climb. Never saw so many sick people scattered lying on the snow. Shrund was wide open due to low snow year. Calm summit and stayed for long time under the early morning sun. Coming down on slushy snow and baking in the sun was just too long.

South Side (June 23, 2002)

Second climb in two weeks, don't have anything better to do on Saturday nights. Managed not to get sick this time and it was a much more pleasent experience. Amazed by watching the clouds filling the valleys and being on top of them and looking down to Hogsback from the gates. Descent from Crater rock is just too long, skiing is a must.

South Side (June 16, 2002)

Second attempt after being forced to turn around after the bergschrund few weeks ago. Yet again felt sick in the stomach, not a pleasent experience especially around Devil's Kitchen. My legs managed to carry me to the top even though the rest of my body didn't want to go. Glad to reach the summit finally.

SE pdx climber

SE pdx climber - May 4, 2005 6:39 pm

Route Climbed: Leutholds Couloir Date Climbed: May 1st  Sucess!

We left Timberline at 10:30 AM on Saturday in the middle of a cloud. It looked as if our chances for summiting were slim to none. Many chose not to even go up that day. We intended to camp at Illumination Saddle that night and depart for the couloir at around 3 AM. Remarkably, as we neared the top of Palmer we broke through the clouds, and began to get glimpses of the upper portions of the peak. Soon after though, a more menacing band of clouds approached with definite precip on the way. We decided to set up camp just above Palmer before making the traverse over to the saddle. As it turned out the weather stayed decent until around 8 that night, when the sleet and snow returned. I was lulled to sleep by the pattering of the sleet and snow on the tent. At this point I thought we'd be lucky just to salvage a south side attempt, but lo and behold, when we awoke at 3:30 Sunday morning, the sky was clear, except for a cloud cap on the summit. Leutholds was a go. The earlier snowfall and subsequent freeze had left the route in excellent condition. The Reid glacier was completely bridged still, the hourglass was spotty in places, but our crampons were able to get good purchase throughout. The hourglass has been carved out by a deep runnel; we had to sort of pinch ourselves up and through between the rock wall and a band of ice and snow. Once to the Queens Chair we were unbelievably once again inside a ping-pong ball...visibility was zilch. We crossed the summit ridge in a thick cloud, unable to see the precarious drops on both sides of us -perhaps for the best. We set up a couple pickets along the way. After a short stay on the summit (we were alone), we began a slow, laborious descent down the pearly gates and hogsback in virtually zero visibility conditions. As we were not certain where the bergshrund was, and the route condition was still an unknown, we set a few ice screws in the gates and pickets down the hogsback. A few years ago these conditions would of panicked me, but it's pretty hard to get lost between the summit and Crater rock; plus we had GPS to back us up. All in all it was thrilling, adventurous climb. I wish I would of used more sunscreen did I underestimate those UVs!


mntnrmichael - May 3, 2005 11:52 pm

Route Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: April 29, 2005

White-out conditions, and blowing ice the whole time. We made it to the bergshund, having difficulty finding the right edge of the bergshund and not wanting to risk it we turned back.

A great experience none the less.


roger3k - May 3, 2005 2:16 am

Route Climbed: South Date Climbed: April 28, 2004  Sucess!

Delayed start for 2 hours due to white out, by the time we made the top of Palmer clear skies and had the WHOLE MOUNTAIN to ourselves.

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