Picked the right day of the week for this one! A warm summit above the clouds, had lunch, took pics, enjoyed a great time with friends! :)
Excellent climb up the Leuthold Couloir with a bivi at Illumination saddle the night prior. We left camp under a full moon at 5am and summitted a little after 7am. There was still plenty of snow, but it was rather soft, which entailed a lot of postholing. Some ice chunks came down, but not too much debris at that time in the morning. We saw two other parties crossing the Reid Glacier after we had returned to the saddle to retrieve our gear. Sketchy that late in the day.
Started about 1:30. A nice workout (quads were on fire) but not too technical. Snow was soft most of the way up. Practically stairs up the old shoot that held fairly well. Quite a bit of ice falling down the old shoot; both natural and caused by other climbers.
After getting blown off the mountain a week earlier so we gave it another shot. Started at 3am. Many groups headed down because if the ice section. We went up the icy section and felt it wasn't as bad as they said. Reached the summit at 10am. The way down felt very hot. Beck to the car at about 1pm. Great weather and great climb with perfect conditions.
Started at 1:00 a.m. in very windy and cold conditions. (my water bottle froze wrapped in clothing inside my pack). Wind persisted throughout the day, but the clouds stayed in the valleys and it was a perfect day on top! Not as many people as expected for memorial day, we went up the old chute and were the only ones to do so while we were up there. Great glissade on the way down, although a little painful as the snow was still pretty frozen. I really need to learn how to ski, that looks alot more fun and much faster for descending!
I knew it would be crowding attempting Hood over Memorial Day weekend, but it wasn't as bad as expected. We went up the old chute route as the Pearly Gates looked busy. The snow was in great shape, soft enough to easily arrest a fall but firm enough to support. We roped up going down but could have done w/o. The summit ridge is exhilirating. You don't want to be here in a gale! Beautiful mountain. 4 more state highpoints to go!
South side - Hogsback. Gorgeous day, but half expected to see a News helicopter giving traffic reports on the mountain. It was bumper-to-bumper for a bit and then slow-and-go, but the mountain was as beautiful as ever and the glissading was truly enjoyable.
Wow! Hell of rush, really good climb! Started at 245am and summited just after 7am. Got to the Hogsback but too much traffic so veered off to the west and did an alternate route. Great experience and a hell of a challenge but great conditions. Maybe the Northern side/face next...
We enjoyed a fanastic sunrise! Climbed up from the Hogback to Heaven's Gate and decended through the Old Chute Variation. A great climb on another great mountain!
It started out to be a beautiful day, clear skies, and cool temps. An uneventful climb other than loosing one of our 7-person team to illness at the Palmer ledge. We talked to many down climbers, gathering beta about the most desirable route near the top. We were told that there was about a 50% turnaround rate at the Pearly Gates do to a 15’ solid water ice section. Some were using rope, and some weren’t. We were also told that it would be best to go the old chute route because of the traffic jam at the icy Pearly Gates.
We dropped our packs at the Hogsback, climbed to the left entrance of the Pearly Gates and inspected the crux of the route. We decide to go for it with no ropes. The reports were right. It was a 15’-20’ section of solid water ice, although with all the recent climbers, there were nice deep step pockets carved for an easy climb through. Down climbing this route was a bit hairy, but with a little confidence and a good pick hold, it wasn’t too bad.
Once at the summit we saw the weather system moving in so we skipped lunch and headed for the bar…I mean car…
after reaching the summit we hiked down to our skis which were just above the highest lift on the mountain then skied down toward the parking lot.
5 Apr 2007 - South Side Old Chute Variation
Climbed from Timberline leaving at six. Was able to skin up to below Crater Rock before it got too icy. Booted the rest of the way up to the Hogsback. Started up the Hogsback but ended up following a guided group's steps (pingzingr?) up the Old Chute. Reached the summit after 3.5hrs. I left the skins on to traverse to the top of the Old Chute, and had to sidestep down ~30' of some icy sastrugi before hitting the snow which was perfect down to Crater Rock. It was extremely icy down to the Palmer lift, then I got fresh tracks on the groomers down to the lodge since the lift wasn't operating yet! 4.5hrs RT.
28 Apr 2007 - Sandy Glacier Headwall
Didn't leave the parking lot until 3:10am, but made quick time up to Inspiration Saddle. Skied down the Reid Glacier to ~7400' to cross below Yocum Ridge. Roped up for the Sandy Glacier and experienced slow postholing all the way up to and including the headwall. We could only manage ~500'/hr in the conditions. We simulclimbed the route using pickets a couple times, and I placed two ice screws to protect the Hourglass. It became very windy as we got higher, and there was considerable amounts of small ice falling on the route, especially in the Hourglass. We reached the summit after 12.5hrs and skied down in another leisurely 1.5hrs. Too warm to do this route, but having skis saved a lot of time.
26 Jun 2011 - Reid Headwall/Wy'East Route
Left Timberline at 5 with the intention of climbing Leuthold Couloir and skiing it. Had no trouble crossing the Reid - a few crevasses and lots of avy debris. I ended up going up the leftmost of the Reid Headwall Routes (I think), and eventually reached a ridge overlooking the crater, right before the ridge gets craggy. That was fortunate, because it was easy to traverse to the normal route which I took the rest of the way to the summit. I skied down the Wy'East Route. It was a little late (~10:30) for descending the east facing snow, but since the route mostly traverses I could avoid any large sloughs building up. Some steep turns in the entrance couloir let to a longish traverse to a final exit chute which was only a ski-length wide. Side-stepped down this and then ran over to the top of the Wy'East Face. Great skiing there, until I had to bend it around to Timberline. Managed to make it to the top of Palmer without having to take off the skis, then great groomers back to the car! Interesting tour of the Mount Hood Crater!
1 Jul 2011 - Upper Cooper Spur from Mt. Hood Meadows
Left the main ski area (park outside the gate) at 3:20 am and wound my way up through the trails trying to stay on snow. Traversed easily across the Newton-Clark Glacier (some rockfall though) to the spur some distance above Tie-in Rock. Slow progress from there because of soft snow that hadn't frozen the night before - collapsing footholds. Reached the summit at 9:30 or so, and skied down around 10. Pretty exposed at the top, but easy skiing. Knocked a lot of slough down on the main face, but good steep skiing. Crevasses and rockfall more apparent on the exit across the Newton-Clark, but still safe and easy. Skied snow all the way back to the Meadows Base area.
Fisher and I had a great weather window with blue-bird skies. It was a great climb and a fun ski down!
went with a guide service. Had a nice trip up the Old Chute. Pretty mushy on the way down.
How do you feel when you have only 3 HP left to finish your quest... Well, you get the best amunition you can... Blue;
Thanks a lot for the company......
Solo hike Icy but fun.
Took a day to head down to Oregon and climb it during stunning conditions. Windy in the morning and evening, but calm while we were on top. Took the Old Chute variation.
Climbed from the Timberline Lodge in a "conga line" with very high winds. Still fun though.
Complete whiteout at the summit, but otherwise a great climb.
First mountain I climbed that required ice ax, crampons, etc. Great experience.