Mount Hood Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 634

cackalackyclimber - Aug 12, 2009 5:48 pm

Re: Old Chute

Yeah, we passed them after they'd turned around just below the top of Magic Mile. They claimed the wind was too strong, but just above the lift things broke up nicely. No apologies needed for any rockfall; we honestly didn't have much of anything until our descent. We only waved at you guys to try and ask which chute you headed up, but there was too much air between us to be easily heard. The big slide happened over on Steel Cliffs; it was big/loud enough to stop most of the skiers in their tracks. The best thing about the day was not so much the weather as it was the low number of us on the route; no doubt rockfall would've been a huge issue with the masses often found up there.


mcpherma - Aug 8, 2009 2:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Old Chute  Sucess!

My brother and I started at about 1230 in wind, clouds and a little precip. Broke out of the clouds around 7000 ft. We climbed by moonlight to the bottom of the Old Chute. The Chute was mostly hard snow/ ice and took serious concentration for every foot placement. Summited at 0630 with some clouds to the north obscuring any real view. We started the careful climb down and returned to the car at 0930. All in all a great time, but I can see why the mountain is out of season. The climb on the moonscape of rock and sand stinks and halfway up the old Chute we could hear a massive rockfall/ slide elsewhere on the mountain that lasted for quite a while.


Malibu - Aug 7, 2009 11:25 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 1999

Climb Early-beat the jam  Sucess!

Climbed with a group of 6, some experienced, some not so much and this was my second glacial peak climb. We left the Lodge around 3:00 AM and were on the summit around 10:00 AM -- had to wait for slower members of our group and the crowd developing on Hogsback. We roped together for the Hogsback and the steep portion through the Pearly Gates -- pretty freaky for a new climber with an ice bridge over a crevasse on Hogsback and the steep chute. Summit was clear but the lowlands were blanketed with fog so the views of the other peaks were about it -- very cool though! Even more traffic to wait for on the descent but witnessed no problems. Planning a May 2010 climb.


Kiefer - Jul 26, 2009 1:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2009

A great mountain!  Sucess!

I actually enjoyed Hood much more then Rainier! More technical difficulties and that wonderful sulfur smell! A sweet peak! Would like to return to do the Steel Cliffs one day.


wma204 - Jul 25, 2009 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2009

Great Birthday Climb  Sucess!

It was a beautiful day to be on the mountain. A little windy early on but the wind died down which made for a great stand on the summit. It was my birthday and I ate a cupcake on the summit. No better birthday gift that standing on the top of Mt. Hood.


Hotoven - Jul 21, 2009 9:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2009

Hard climb  Sucess!

I did this late in a season and had to change rout at the hogs back. It was very soft and slushy snow, so extra caution was needed. Also, the rock fall was bad.

Cascade Scrambler

Cascade Scrambler - Jul 20, 2009 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2009

Fun in the Old Chute  Sucess!

We had an *AMAZING* time climbing the Old Chute variation. My partner was rightfully conservative on his way up, but he reached the summit of his first 10k+ Cascade volcano. I felt right at ease the entire time, and I loved the exposure at the top. The walk to the true summit was easy.


chilkoot - Jul 12, 2009 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009

Solitutde  Sucess!

We had great weather and snow conditions with very few other other climbers and had the entire summit ridge to ourselves.


Jakester - Jul 6, 2009 12:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009

Independence Day  Sucess!

Midnight start in the moonlight. Sunrise from the summit. Perfect weather. Stinky fumeroles. Awesome friends.


Vinny - Jul 2, 2009 7:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009

ski descent  Sucess!

Started late and finished early to let snow soften for the boards. I downclimbed first pitch- watched Oyvind and Dave rip it up.
Lots of people en route. Good times after the MRA conference


scottmitch - Jun 30, 2009 3:33 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2009

Old Chute  Sucess!

Fun climb nice views.


sourstraw - Jun 30, 2009 1:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009

old chutes  Sucess!

Great climb in perfect weather. Climbed with my cousin ... brought rope, but didn't end up using it, as we felt more comfortable unroped. This was my first time on Hood ... we accidentaly missed the popular trail in the dark (Sunday night - only a few other climbers on the mountain, and most were below us), and ended up climbing over the Bergschrund on the Hogsback, and then having to traverse across the steep face to access the old summit chutes. Added for a bit of excitement, which we needed after climbing up the deathly boring ski slope! Great climb - sunrise was incredible, with an INCREDIBLE shadow of Mt. Hood cast upon the valley below!


gcap - Jun 29, 2009 12:17 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

old chute  Sucess!

Late start, planned on just making the crater. Got to crater quickly, snow still solid, made summit. stuff started melting out on descent. Car-to-Car (timberline parking) in 5.5 hours. Great weather, great day.


damgaard - Jun 19, 2009 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2009

Old Chute  Sucess!

3,5 hours from Timberline up and 2 hours down. Weather was superb, sunny and no wind, and clouds only up to Timberline, so only Adams and the rest of the volcanoes were visible. Soloed old chute, where there were nice steps. Started at 2 am.


dirth - Jun 9, 2009 4:20 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Lazy Route  Sucess!

I took Timberline extending my spring pass for a few weeks to be a sign that I was meant to ride lifts up to 8600 feet... Summited around 11:30 and snowboarded down the west face of the crater. Really fun trip.


bighornmonkey - Jun 1, 2009 2:35 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Pearly Gates  Sucess!

Climbed a variation of the Hogsback route through the Pearly Gates. It involved 1 pitch of AI2. Well worth doing to avoid the Saturday crowd.


gwave47 - May 30, 2009 9:59 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2009

Great Snow  Sucess!

Great Snow... good bit of traffic, but still very enjoyable.

Bruce Christensen

Bruce Christensen - May 29, 2009 12:42 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2009

Hogsback crawling with ants  Sucess!

Summitted yesterday a bit before 5:30 a.m. on the SS Hogsback route. We were the first ones up there, other than a solo climber. Definitely not the last, though—we counted 75 people at one point!

Most people were taking the main Old Chute route. We headed left from the Hogsback and hugged the cliffs, taking the 2 o'clock (first, climber's rightmost) couloir to the summit ridge. I probably wouldn't recommend that, though, due to risk of ice/rockfall.

Not much ice was falling when we went up, other than small, harmless crystals, but we were up there early. We crossed a couple places were there was a constant flow of small ice crystals coming down.

Safest route right now is to head left (west) immediately after reaching the top of the Hogsback, then cross the bare rock near the fumaroles, then up the Old Chute. That will keep you out of the way of most ice/rockfall.


junoiceclimber - May 19, 2009 12:06 pm Date Climbed: May 18, 2009

1, 2, 3... Stay on your feet  Sucess!

Three people were injured and two took major slides on consecutive days on this weekend. Two of the three made the paper as airlift rescues and the last one walked away from the Hogsback under his own power.

One person was hit by falling ice suffered substantial leg injuries rendering her incapable of walking away from the Cathedral Rock area. Another guy slipped, shot 500 ft out of the Devil's Kitchen, and sustained serious facial, wrist, and leg injuries. Lastly a climber, just five minutes behind me was knocked off his feet by a careening dinner plate and slid, unharmed, 200 ft back down to the start of the Hogsback. Witnessing this incident occur, 14 climbers turned around to descend.

Without knowing that such drama was happening, I witnessed an ice wheel go zinging down the mountain just meters away, and then, seconds later, took a baseball size chunk of ice in the chin and mouth, thinking it broke several of my front teeth. I (literally) poured on the speed to get up and out of the gully to reach the safety of the summit ridge.

The summit was amazing, not a cloud in the sky. All the big Cascades were visible, including Shasta!! To top it all off, I had good cell coverage and called my wife back in Juneau with a wake up call.

On the descent, I moved quick to get down without incident. I descended the Old Chute in a face first clipity clop and literally ran the traverse to reach the Hogsback without incident.


oso1212 - May 18, 2009 5:34 pm Date Climbed: May 17, 2009

Sandy Glacier Headwall  Sucess!

We started at 2:00am from Illumination Saddle and descended Reid Glacier then up and over Yokum at around 7800 ft. Went up the headwall while attempting to dodge ice and summited around 10am.

Viewing: 1-20 of 634
Return to 'Mount Hood' main page