Mount Humphreys Southwest Face Variations

The green line on the left is the preferred route described by Bob Burd on the route page. Though it looks nasty and improbable from below, we did see footprints at the top of this chute, where it intersects the final chute to the notch. The purple line in the middle is the route as depicted on the route illustration on page 313 of RJ Secor's "Peaks, Passes and Trails" guide. That area looks to be unpleasant class 3-4 over dark, shattered rock. Since Secor's description does not match the illustration, and describes a 'scree-covered ledge,' the line on the illustration in the guide is probably an error. The red line on the right more likely matches Secor's description, though it's more a series of ramps and chutes covered in scree, not simply a 'scree-covered ledge.' We used this route on May 27, 2007, and there was enough snow to make it a steep, enjoyable snow climb. Without snow, it would be loose class 2 with possibilities to bypass on sections of more solid class 3 rock.