Mount Kashagnak

Overview

Mt. Kashagnak is a summit in Southeast Alaska in the Takshanuk range northeast of Haines burough and northwest of Chilkoot lake. Despite not being a particularly difficult or long climb, this peak has probably seen very few successful summits due to it's remoteness and difficulty with access. Also, the weather in there is very unpredictable. The days I was there it snowed everyday but also we had sun everyday.
The route I climbed was straight up the southwest face to a chute about 400-500 feet below the summit. The views just below and on the summit are spectacular! Peaks in the Chilkat and Takinsha ranges can be seen including Mt. Emmerich(Cathedral peak)and on a clear day the Eastern boundry of the Fairweather Range. To the East/Southeast Lutak inlet, and Haluta ridge and Chilkoot inlet are in view.

Route

The route I climbed was up the southwest face to a chute about 400-500 feet below the summit. The views just below and on the summit are spectacular! Peaks in the Chilkat and Takinsha ranges can be seen including Mt. Emmerich(Cathedral peak)and on a clear day the Eastern boundry of the Fairweather Range. To the East/Southeast Lutak inlet, and Haluta ridge and Chilkoot inlet are in view.

Camping

Camping spots can be found on the large unamed basin glacier close to the landing zone of the ski plane. Probe for crevasses before setting up camp, especially in later spring.

External Links

HERE

Gear used

Rope, pickets, ice axe, crampons, glacier gear(for approach to base of climb).

Getting There

There is a way to access this area via a trailhead called 7 mile saddle (from haines highway)and hiking through 3 mountain passes for a total of about 6 miles. This approach could add 2-3 days onto the trip(one way) depending on weather and fitness level of group. Clear sunny weather could turn into whiteout conditions in a very short time.
The best way to access this beautiful area is via a 15 minute ski-plane flight from Haines airport. Besides, the views of Tukgahgo mountain and Peak 3920 are great! I would recommend pilot Drake Olson-flydrake.com for a flight to the area.

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Images

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