Quite the talus slog above Meysan lake. The waterfall pitch was shorter than expected. Start of a Le Conte-Corcoran-Mallory-Irvine traverse.
Solo traverse from Malory, Irvine, and Candlelight. Descending the waterfall pitch was thrilling.
This was my first big Sierra Peak in nine months after injuring my knee. I went with my friend Laura, who is new to quasi-technical Sierra peaks. It took us a lot longer than expected. We intended to do the NF, but by the time we got to the plateau (postholing near the end--ugh!) it was too late. So we did the NW chute. I gave Laura a TR on a short crack/chimney halfway up (good job Laura--your first roped climbing in the alpine!). Even taking an easier route, we ended up missing burgers at WPS when we got down. Oh well. Pizza in LP was a pretty good substitute.
No ice or water on the route.
very loose getting to the plateau, but afterwards it's fun third class.
Soloed North Face in about ten minutes, down via NW chute. Third peak of the day, dark clouds rolling in...
Route finding was easy. Waterfall pitch was interesting and I believe it should be rated class 4. We put a quick link around the webbing for descending the waterfall pitch. Great views from the summit.
Summitted via NW Chute. Waterfall Pitch was really not that bad.
Fun scrambling on the traverse, which was *very* well ducked, by the way. No need for people to fuss around and suffer from "big air" - just follow the ducks for a nice climb. It was nice looking down on the waterfall pitch - didn't look too hard from the top.
Great day, but cold and windy.
climbed with Brian from UCLA on the way to Mallory; actually climbed twice, the first time "checking out" the route while he went back partly across the ridge of Peak 3985m on his way to see if he could find his harness and gear he lost...
Penelope May and I hiked the Meysan Lakes trail to the Upper Meysan Lake and next morning climbed the snow gully to the base of the North Face. Three vertical pitches of technical crack climbing on very good rock and a long traverse left put us on the summit. The problems started there. We elected to descent the East Ridge (class 3) and needed to rope up on 2 pitches of steep downclimbing to get to the access ramp. The ramp consists of easy 4th class slab but when covered by couple inches of snow, it represented a major problem. Two somewhat runout and insecure friction traverses (in mountain boots) got us back to the terra firma. A long descent down the 1500' of hardening snow gully followed. Reached our tent at 7:30 PM. The short (3 pitches) rock climb is suprisingly good climbing for the rating, 6-8 hexes and medium stoppers, 6 slings, we had 8mm rope. Great, early summer conditions. A lot of snow on the high peaks, somewhat more than one would expect for this time of year.
Second peak of the day on my solo link-up of Mallory/LeConte/Lone Pine Peak. Left the Meysan trailhead at 5:00am. Summited Mallory at 10:01am, summited LeConte at 11:12am and finally Lone Pine Peak at 2:00pm. I agree with others that the waterfall pitch needs to be rated class 4 on the climber's left side and then class 5 the further right you go.
The waterfall pitch seemed harder than some of the 5th class I've led. Traversed on to Corcoran afterwards (great beta from Eric and Bob made this fairly straightforward), and returned via Iridescent Lake/Arc Pass rather than repeat the traverse back to LeConte and downclimb (or fall down) the waterfall pitch. Dayhike out of the Meysan trailhead.
Met up with Matthew Holliman and did LeConte. A long day for me as I was not feeling the greatest. Lost Matthew (or he lost me) early on. Not sure about the class 3 rating. Nice day out. Waterfall pitch was not as much as I had expected although I did a quick rap on the way down (left a piece of new webbing there). Great views all around. The only snow on the route was between Meysan lake and the LeConte Mallory saddle.
A Lone Pine - LeConte - Corcoran triple header, a very long and tiring 14hrs. Trip Report
Was a little concerned climbing up the waterfall pitch. Also had a problem with weather. Clouds had formed up over the summit but I hoped they wouldn't develop into a thunderstorm. When I reached the top (or very near) and poked my head up I heard a buzzing sound in my head and immediately knew what it meant. Before I could locate the summit register I descended slightly to ponder my next move. A moment later a crack of thunder confirmed my fear. The summit was charged up and this was not a good place to be. I descended slightly more and another crack of thunder convinced me it wasn't worth the risk to locate the register. After the second crack of thunder it started to hail and snow. I realized that this would make getting over the waterfall pitch even more difficult so I headed down as quickly as possible. As I feared, by the time I reached the waterfall pitch the hand and footholds (the few there are) were covered with snow and hail. By this time it was really unloading on me. Realizing things were only getting worse with every passing second I descended the waterfall pitch as quickly as possible and somehow managed not to slip and break a leg. Thanks to whoever left the webbing up there. I probably would have slipped without it. Fortunately, the rest of the descent was uneventful.
ascent via the East Chute ("The Laughing Dolphin") from Tuttle Creek.
Fairly straightforward with the exception of passing the chockstone which was a huge ice cube underneath. A rope and a partner would have been nice!
Nice climb. I bagged this one on my way back from Corcoran. The route was rather anticlimatic, though, since the waterfall pitch wasn't as formidable as I had expected! Apart from cold hands resulting from handjamming in ice-filled cracks, and some akward chimney work, the 15ft scramble wasn't too precarious - I think there were more dangerous scrambling portions later on along the traverse to Corcoran!
I had meant to continue on to do Mallory and Irvine, but sadly I was too slow after having lugged a rope and pro all the way up. Perhaps another day!
After opting for Bob's non snow approach to the saddle, had no trouble navigating my way up to the summit. This was my first peak of 4 on this day(read my trip report for a full description of the traverse).