The route up to the plateau was pretty crappy, with lots of loose rock and sand. The waterfall pitch wasn't too terrible with climbing shoes, but we were certainly glad we had a rope.
Going up the NW chute I was thinking what to hike first; Mallory or LeConte. I decided for Mallory. I am glad I did. However, looking to LeConte from afar I made the judgement that the way to the summit had to be circling the mountain to the right, since the South/East face looked impossible to free climb. With that in mind I started my climb to the North and I keep dead ending in walls or drops. After 45 minutes of trying I decided to give up and turned around just to see a huge cairn toward the South side. I followed that ledge and I got to the Waterfall pitch, which I had no idea what it was until I saw it. I made my way up but I did not encounter a class 4. Either I bypassed it somehow or is just a very easy class 4. The approach for LeConte is nasty, but that Waterfall climb is very nice. When I got down to the top of the chute, I glissaded all the way down, using the ax to slow myself down and not go too fast. Yes my butt and legs were freezing, but it was a fast descend. All in all it took me 12 hours and 40 minutes car to car from Whitney Portal to bag both Mallory and LeConte.
From Meysan lake via Northeast face. Descended West ridge.
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNDGTjf_y2I
Last stop on a traverse from Mount Irvine and Mount Mallory. Short gully climb past a 4th class "waterfall" pitch. Good summit views, but we got snowed on on the summit so we did not linger. The descent back to Meysan Lake was a real pain (must be worse going up!).
Relatively easy dayhike with some tense moments descending loose chute. Waterfall pitch was fun, rapped down for safety. Gail force winds in the chute made the chute rather uncomfortable but great climbing.
The waterfall pitch was my first experience with class 4. Really tough. Going solo, got wedged in the crack. It took 2 attempts to surpass and it was not easy.
Have climbed it twice since. Used a light rope to rappel the waterfall pitch. Same route. Was hoping to traverse further to Corcoran. Failed on both attempts.
One of the worst approaches I've ever been on. (From upper Meysan Lake). Still, a most noteworthy summit to attain.
Chris stopped at the "waterfall pitch"
We hiked up the Meysan Lakes Trail and camped the 1st night on a saddle above the lake on the ridge up to Irvine. Then we traversed over to Mallory and LeConte before going down a gully and camping below Pickering. The next day we climbed Pickering, Joe Devel and Chamberlin and then down to Crabtree Lakes. The following day we went from Crabtree to the JMT and and climbed up Discovery Pinnacle before going down the Whitney Trail.
Nice climb and view and liked the traverse to Corcoran even more.
Waterfall pitch wasn't too difficult on the ascent. Challenging on the descent if you don't use the sling.
With Oleg R via NW chute. Challenging new late fall/early winter type snow.
Nice peak, and even nicer summit
As SJ wrote, scrambling in loose rock was not so much fun, but the other parts on the solid rock are beautiful. Didn't have any problems in the famous Waterfall pitch, it's little tricky on the way down, but the holds and steps are pretty good.
Scramble up to the summit plateau sucked, a lot of loose rock, but the climbing was great once we got to the solid stuff. Took the NW Chute.
Climbed via the northwest chute, Good snow leading up to the LeConte/Mallory plateau, and loose rock and snow in the actual chute. All in all a really fun climb!!
Left O.C. at 1am, started hiking at 5am. Probably the most miserable scree slog I have ever done above Meysan Lake. Waterfall pitch was a little hairy, especially since I was by myself, but I made it. Went over to Mallory too, and back to the car at 4pm, then drove 4 hours home. Long day! Love climbing peaks like this one that don't get much traffic. No one had signed the summit register for 2.5 weeks before I did.
After getting past the crumbling gully above Meysan Lake, it was a nice climb to LeConte and over to Corcoran. I was aided by a generous cheater sling on the waterfall pitch, which is certainly class 4+ in my estimation. Overall, I was worn out from the previous 10 days of climbing and had to skip Mallory.
Climbed with bighornmonkey and Miki...who did awesome on her first technical climb at altitude!
With Dave McLaughlin via North Fork of Tuttle Creek. Very unpleasant approach. Lots of bush-whacking, but a faint use trail can be followed if you are *very* observant. Expected water at our base camp at 9000 feet, but Tuttle was dry (subterranean). Had to descend back to a small spring at approx. 8000 feet to fill water bottles. Tuttle re-appears at approx. 11000 feet. The 2000 foot scree chute that leads to base of north face nearly killed us. The class 3 climbing on the peak, though, was fun and challenging.
Fun route, cold day.