Mount LeConte Climber's Log

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Diesel

Diesel - Jun 29, 2018 11:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2018

Waterfall Pitch is a winner.   Sucess!

Going up the NW chute I was thinking what to hike first; Mallory or LeConte. I decided for Mallory. I am glad I did. However, looking to LeConte from afar I made the judgement that the way to the summit had to be circling the mountain to the right, since the South/East face looked impossible to free climb. With that in mind I started my climb to the North and I keep dead ending in walls or drops. After 45 minutes of trying I decided to give up and turned around just to see a huge cairn toward the South side. I followed that ledge and I got to the Waterfall pitch, which I had no idea what it was until I saw it. I made my way up but I did not encounter a class 4. Either I bypassed it somehow or is just a very easy class 4. The approach for LeConte is nasty, but that Waterfall climb is very nice. When I got down to the top of the chute, I glissaded all the way down, using the ax to slow myself down and not go too fast. Yes my butt and legs were freezing, but it was a fast descend. All in all it took me 12 hours and 40 minutes car to car from Whitney Portal to bag both Mallory and LeConte.

Simkin

Simkin - Oct 5, 2016 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2016

Northeast face  Sucess!

From Meysan lake via Northeast face. Descended West ridge.

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNDGTjf_y2I

Romain

Romain - Sep 1, 2015 2:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2015

NW Chute  Sucess!

Last stop on a traverse from Mount Irvine and Mount Mallory. Short gully climb past a 4th class "waterfall" pitch. Good summit views, but we got snowed on on the summit so we did not linger. The descent back to Meysan Lake was a real pain (must be worse going up!).

Deb

Deb - Oct 25, 2014 10:39 am Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2014

NW Chute  Sucess!

Relatively easy dayhike with some tense moments descending loose chute. Waterfall pitch was fun, rapped down for safety. Gail force winds in the chute made the chute rather uncomfortable but great climbing.

BobD3

BobD3 - Mar 15, 2014 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009

3   Sucess!

The waterfall pitch was my first experience with class 4. Really tough. Going solo, got wedged in the crack. It took 2 attempts to surpass and it was not easy.
Have climbed it twice since. Used a light rope to rappel the waterfall pitch. Same route. Was hoping to traverse further to Corcoran. Failed on both attempts.
One of the worst approaches I've ever been on. (From upper Meysan Lake). Still, a most noteworthy summit to attain.

Donno

Donno - Aug 11, 2013 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2004

NW Cute  Sucess!

Chris stopped at the "waterfall pitch"

Vic Hanson

Vic Hanson - Oct 21, 2012 1:28 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2012

#3  Sucess!

We hiked up the Meysan Lakes Trail and camped the 1st night on a saddle above the lake on the ridge up to Irvine. Then we traversed over to Mallory and LeConte before going down a gully and camping below Pickering. The next day we climbed Pickering, Joe Devel and Chamberlin and then down to Crabtree Lakes. The following day we went from Crabtree to the JMT and and climbed up Discovery Pinnacle before going down the Whitney Trail.

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Oct 1, 2012 5:26 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012

NW Chute  Sucess!

Nice climb and view and liked the traverse to Corcoran even more.

soslaw

soslaw - Sep 29, 2012 11:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012

NW Chute  Sucess!

Waterfall pitch wasn't too difficult on the ascent. Challenging on the descent if you don't use the sling.

Bill562

Bill562 - Oct 31, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011

From Meysan Lake  Sucess!

With Oleg R via NW chute. Challenging new late fall/early winter type snow.

Daria

Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

+  Sucess!

Nice peak, and even nicer summit

becquerel

becquerel - Aug 2, 2010 10:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

NW Chute  Sucess!

As SJ wrote, scrambling in loose rock was not so much fun, but the other parts on the solid rock are beautiful. Didn't have any problems in the famous Waterfall pitch, it's little tricky on the way down, but the holds and steps are pretty good.

SJ

SJ - Aug 1, 2010 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

Uno  Sucess!

Scramble up to the summit plateau sucked, a lot of loose rock, but the climbing was great once we got to the solid stuff. Took the NW Chute.

Climber Dave

Climber Dave - Sep 1, 2009 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009

Northwest chute  Sucess!

Climbed via the northwest chute, Good snow leading up to the LeConte/Mallory plateau, and loose rock and snow in the actual chute. All in all a really fun climb!!

cab

cab - Aug 31, 2009 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009

NW Chute from Meysan Lake  Sucess!

Left O.C. at 1am, started hiking at 5am. Probably the most miserable scree slog I have ever done above Meysan Lake. Waterfall pitch was a little hairy, especially since I was by myself, but I made it. Went over to Mallory too, and back to the car at 4pm, then drove 4 hours home. Long day! Love climbing peaks like this one that don't get much traffic. No one had signed the summit register for 2.5 weeks before I did.

derbilly

derbilly - Aug 22, 2009 4:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009

Challenge day 10  Sucess!

After getting past the crumbling gully above Meysan Lake, it was a nice climb to LeConte and over to Corcoran. I was aided by a generous cheater sling on the waterfall pitch, which is certainly class 4+ in my estimation. Overall, I was worn out from the previous 10 days of climbing and had to skip Mallory.

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Aug 18, 2009 3:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

up North face, down SW chute   Sucess!

Climbed with bighornmonkey and Miki...who did awesome on her first technical climb at altitude!

boyblue

boyblue - Aug 12, 2009 11:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1987

Northeast Face  Sucess!

With Dave McLaughlin via North Fork of Tuttle Creek. Very unpleasant approach. Lots of bush-whacking, but a faint use trail can be followed if you are *very* observant. Expected water at our base camp at 9000 feet, but Tuttle was dry (subterranean). Had to descend back to a small spring at approx. 8000 feet to fill water bottles. Tuttle re-appears at approx. 11000 feet. The 2000 foot scree chute that leads to base of north face nearly killed us. The class 3 climbing on the peak, though, was fun and challenging.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Aug 10, 2009 10:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

up North face, down SW chute  Sucess!

Fun route, cold day.

seano

seano - Aug 7, 2009 8:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009

NW chute from Meysan lake  Sucess!

Quite the talus slog above Meysan lake. The waterfall pitch was shorter than expected. Start of a Le Conte-Corcoran-Mallory-Irvine traverse.

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