Up from Lake Louise via the death trap, then on to South Victoria. Trip report.
Climbed the west face a few weeks after the storm that wiped out the highway in Canmore.
Attempted to solo, little sketchy above 10,600 ft without a partner so I turned back.
Beautiful mountain, definitely will return to attempt both Victoria and Lefroy.
Fun climb...route was in great shape- good times at the Abbot hut!
Perfect snow conditions. Quick, fun and easy climbing from Abbot Pass Hut with Tim Bester and Andy Meyers.
Solo jaunt up Mount Lefroy this am. Start at 4:45 from the hut and on the summit one hour later during sunrise. Although our temps at the hut were 5C at 4:15am, despite a clear night sky, the wind had blown most of the previous steps hard enough. Great conditions with snow cover keeping rock fall at a minimum and travel conditions fast. Again, best condition this route has been during August for quite a few years.
Climbed the rightmost gully on relatively firm snow. Snow was thin on the upper half of the gully, with about half a pitch of ice exposed at one point. Summit ridge was dry as a bone. Descent was a bit dicey with deteriorating snow conditions and rocks zinging past us from above. Great trip but I advise getting off of this peak early!
total whiteout conditions but excellent snow. A basic walk up. Couldn't see a thing!
Lots of fun and a nice icy section near the top.
All I can remember is breaking trail up good steep snow with two short scrappy sections near the top. Took about 2 hrs hut to hut in the very early morning hours. Moved on to Victoria next and had terrible isothermal snow conditions. If there is any snow on this face DO IT EARLY!
Great climb, ice starting to show on upper reaches of face; took too long to reach top. Didn't see need for much belaying until last 50m, rather hairy ice. 3 rappels off a 60m rope until better snow was reached. Top gully was ~50 degrees? Downclimbed most of the way - UCK - until we plunge stepped 200m from bottom of snow, from there 5 minutes and you're off the face. Nobody on the mountain. Started at 5AM, down by 1PM or so. Could have been much faster.
Starting from the Abbot pass hut an excellent half day (morning) of climbing. Mainly a 45 degree slope. Due to terrible snow conditions we started at 4:30 am and we were off of the peak by 6:45 am. The bottom had already turned to mush.