Mount Mendel Climber's Log

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SchwartzOn - Jul 16, 2016 4:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010

Easy Class III Scramble up East Face  Sucess!

This is a great mountain to climb, with superb views of Darwin. I climbed from the Darwin saddle up the East Face in a couple of hours. Perfect weather, and nice climbing in Evolution Basin.


bkrause - Jun 3, 2015 10:54 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 1983

Twice  Sucess!

Last with Alois via Right Mendel Couloir

First with Dale via Right Mendel Couloir (July, 1981)


BobD3 - Oct 31, 2014 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2014

East face  Sucess!

Climbed the east face, then went right to the NE ridge near the top. Followed the NE ridge through a keyhole to the summit.
Dark gray skies all day.
Nice route.
With Steve E. and Mike B.

ripper333 - Sep 9, 2012 8:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2012

traverse fr gould  Sucess!

all part of a long fun day

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Aug 27, 2012 3:34 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2012

Mendel Couloir/EvolutionTraverse  Sucess!

Mendel Right: Fun climb with Max. 3 ropes of ice with loose snow on some of it.

8/24/2013: 27 hour c2c climb of Evolution Traverse.


atavist - May 23, 2012 1:21 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2012

Mendel Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed with Kevin and Moosetracks. Nice and easy hike in on Saturday but it was a long Sunday. 3 roped pitches with about half on ice, half on snow and rock.

tb00957 - Aug 25, 2011 4:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011

east face  Sucess!

loose class 2 till the head wall.


dshoshone - Aug 23, 2011 12:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011

E.Face - NE Ridge  Sucess!

E. Face to the NE ridge was the easiest way I could find and that last bit to the summit is cl 4.

No pencil in register


seano - Aug 18, 2011 8:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2011

East face  Sucess!

On the way from Tom Ross and Darwin for the Sierra Challenge. Mostly just crappy sand and talus, but I popped up to the NE ridge near the top for some fun. Trip report


zoomloco - Aug 13, 2011 1:14 am

traverse  Sucess!

couldnt find the left avoidance, so had to lead the 5.9 crack on rap cord. luckily no incident. traverse to darwin from peak 13385 (north ridge aka evolution ridge) with doug


Daria - Aug 22, 2010 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010

From Tom Ross

Got within 70 feet from the summit and explored multiple options, included the supposed 3rd class route-was blocked off by 4th/5th class overhanging sections or large 5th class boulders. Tried and exhausted all options, including east approach along summit ridge.


Deb - Jul 29, 2008 1:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

NE Ridge  Sucess!

After a nine-month absence from the Sierra - Totally loved climbing this ridge and found it quite aesthetic with beautiful granite and bountiful holds. The east face descent, on the other hand, was total bullshit. Perfect weather and dreamy partner - loved it!

Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Jul 28, 2008 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

Amazing NE Ridge!  Sucess!

Deb and I made a successful ascent of Mendel via the Northeast Ridge (more like an arete). Been wanting to get on this for years after oogling over the steep northern flanks of Mendel. We both agreed that the route is solid 4th class (especially at the bottom) with fun wild exposure! One of my Top 5 scrambles (4th class and below) in the Sierra. I would HIGHLY recommend this climb! Thanks for the adventure Love!

BTW, the East Face is one of the ugliest sections on Mendel. Unfortunately, this was the option we took for the descent. Lots of loose 3rd class. The only enjoyable part was the downclimb from the headwall (4th class). If you're considering this as an ascent, pass it up! :P


jimegan - Feb 8, 2008 8:06 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2003

MT MENDEL  Sucess!



glahhg - Sep 5, 2007 4:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

Evolution Traverse Attempt  Sucess!

Summitted via the ridge from the first unnamed peak, attempting to do the whole Evolution traverse. We kept thinking we were on top of Mendel after a few false summit plateaus. Then we finally saw the real Mendel, and it was freaking FAR away! Bailed after Darwin due to bonking and heavy pack. Next time: more food, lighter pack.


bechtt - Aug 1, 2007 5:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

SW Face  Sucess!

Secor's directions for the correct chute were confusing but the giant cairn at the top of the chute I took signified that others had been fooled as well. The ridge was the best part of the climb. Peak #6 on JMT adventure.


Pantilat - Jul 9, 2007 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

East Face  Sucess!

Climbed the east face after doing the North Face of Darwin but screwed up the route doing the top part of the northeast ridge making it more time consuming than need be. After descending the correct route, I can say that the East Face is not very aesthetic, but the mountain does offer a nice summit view to Darwin and Evolution Basin below.


travelin_light - Feb 14, 2007 6:26 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005

Route: Right Couloir

good stuff.


forjan - Sep 6, 2006 12:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006

Right Mendel Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed the right Mendel couloir with MichaelJ. Conditions as of August 26, 2006 were all neve to the chockstone. After that, you have glassy ice for about one 60m pitch. Then, it's mixed 4th class (low 5th) loose rock for another half pitch. The ice goes all the way to the notch narrowing down to 3ft wide at the top. Michael and I roped up for 1 pitch and solo'ed the rest. Bergshrund is easily crossed on climber's left. I went to take a look at the right side of the 'shrund and it had an approx 15-foot wide separation. Started out at 5:36am from a camp (elev ~ 11,800')near the east-most lake on Darwin Canyon. Took us about 3 hrs from the bergshrund to the notch. Summited around 11:15am or so. Back in camp around 1:30pm (8 hrs camp-to-camp).


graham - Nov 25, 2005 2:45 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: Aug-8-05  Sucess!

Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Thanks to Ron Hudson for leading us up the loose East face gullies

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