With James Barnett
Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Climbed with Ron H. and Rick G. Routefinding on the east face was less problematic than anticipated. Fun class 3/4 climbing on the uppermost part of the NE ridge.
Team of three. Lots of dinner plating but good ice low and into the couloir. Last two pitches were thin to no ice and lots of loose rock. Night fell at top of couloir and forced a bivy with one pitch left...made for a great a.m. summit. Great route.
Climbed this in a long day with Charles Ince. My first real ice climb. 9 pitches from the bergshrund to the top. Ice was dinnerplating badly. Not sure where the actual descent goes, we ended up having to do some rappels. The hike out over Lamarck Col was a killer, man I am beat today. ~22 hours tent to tent.
Day 4 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. The NE Ridge was a fine scramble, but Secor's class 3 rating is seriously sandbagged, or else it is the hardest class 3 I've ever encountered in the Sierra. Trip Report
This was a great climb. David and I did this on a weekend blast. The first couple of hundred feet were hard Neve, the rest hard ice; dinnerplating but solid. After I spent too long setting up a belay we were passed by a faster team just as it narrowed down. Much falling ice from whoever was climbing meant only one party could climb at a time and the upper party was generous enough to stop after each pitch to let us climb a pitch. Eventually we all four joined up and swapped leads so only one climber had to lead each pitch and the rest could move faster on a top rope. As it was I came up the last mixed pitch in the dark, terrified of planting my axe thru the rope. I remember seeing the sparks when I hit rock with the pick. Bivyed at the top of the couloir just on the other side of the ridge, with moonlight views of the evolution basin. Got to the summit at dawn and hiked out that day.
The northeast face is a maze of possibilites - we found a combination that got us to the top (and down)
long exposed ridge with some really high quality climbing, and a scary 4th class section low down.
another awesome day in the mountains.
I'm reaching way back for this one. Bill Krause and I climbed the right Mendel over two day weekend. I remember a few pins on the right side of the gully, very good ice and pretty steep upper part. The thing I remember most was the return to Lamarc Col where our tent was. That hill back up to Lamarc felt like 10,000 feet, I remember it like it was yesterday. Great, steep climb. I second Craig Peer's opinion of it, as one of, if not THE best ice couloir in the High Sierra.