Rented a canoe for the approach and spent the night at CMC camp. Led the climb in 3 long simul pitches. The 4th class descent was fun and required no raps. The descent back to the lake with a heavy pack was the crux of the climb.
Beautiful water approach and a stellar view from basecamp. Weather threatening we managed to climb to Drizzlepuss but got stormed off shortly after that. If you do this route this time of year don't forget your bug spray. The mosquitoes followed us up to at least 10500 ft. We also noticed the route still had a large cornice above the face.
As others have said, Bushwacking is extremely beat but things become much less demanding and frustrating when actually on snow and finding your groove. Def get on this route early as it tends to get a bit sloppy. Ideally, summit by 8:00, have that fantastic sunrise, coffee, then board. I've never seen it as crowded as I think it will be as not many want to deal with the lake (although in winter much easier).
Tough route for the descent, which took longer than the climb. Left camp below the glacier at 5am, partner bailed after 45 min, summited 9am, back in camp 2:30. Used kayaks to approach across Jackson Lake and followed game trails up the creek drainage.
The high camp is great. Awakened just past midnight with rain pounding tent. Rain continued through the morning and so plans to summit were scratched. Temps fell all day and rain turned wintery although it was more sleet than snow.
Late afternoon gave us clear skies, nighttime was starry and the next morning we set out. The sunshine felt great, the snow was great, the extra day of wait was well worth it.
Got lucky enough for the first fall heavy dusting of snow to melt out just enough for an attempt of Moran late season. In addition to having two perfect, warm, bluebird fall days, we had the entire mountain to ourselves and didn't see a single person past the Leigh Lake portage. Left high camp at 5:30, but lost a lot of time by accidentally traversing the Southern side of Unsoeld's needle. Climb took 14 hours RT from high camp, leaving us canoeing back in the dark. Fortunately, this made for an epic canoe ride with a full moon and elks bugling in the darkness.
90 minute canoe ride from the String Lake put in to the base of the climb. The portage was easy. Camped at your base(don't haul your stuff up the mountain for no reason) and did the climb the following days in 11 hrs roundtrip from the lake. There was little to no water at the CMC camp. We simul-climbed the entire face with 3 people and unroped where the route gets close to the Black Dike (4th class here, cairns mark this area). It seemed like there were a few ways to rappel, more at the center of the face and more on the south side of the face. We did the "south side" rappel route and found, like the below user, that a 60 m rope was too short for the lower rappels. We had to do some somewhat exposed 4th to low 5th class to get to the anchors. The climb back up to Drizzle Puss seemed like the crux.
great weather until we were nearly down to the canoe. One of the rappels is too long for a 60 m rope and you had to slide down a slick slab to the ledge below, then we got the rope hung up and had to climb back up to get it.
super memorial day weekend climb with mike and brian!
bushwhack to the base of the route wasn't pleasant at 1:30am, but we flew up the skillet once the angle kicked up. topped out at 7:35am and enjoyed the orange glow on the grand teton and solitude until other people started arriving 15-20 minutes later.
the descent of the handle was a little rough until the 45-50 degree slopes relented, then i was able to glissade 2500-3000' vertical back to the woods. done before 10:30am, then canoed back to signal mountain lodge.
all in all an excellent climb, not to be missed!
Climbed and skied Skillet Glacier with Brian and Jamie, bushwhack approach is annoying and time consuming, but once we hit snow we quickly made progress. Summit around 8am and it was already getting really soft, be prepared to get this line EARLY, direct east sun right from sunrise!
Fought big surf on the canoe trip up. Were all alone on the mountain. Not a cloud in the sky. What a fantastic trip.
One of the most stunning peaks I’ve climbed. The Hanging glacier and the East and West Horns are amazing! Did the climb in 3 days making it very enjoyable with a swim at the end to Boulder Island. Highly recommended!!!
Really great fun climb and beautiful views all the way. We were the only team on the mountain. Glad we borrowed a canoe because I think the bushwhack would be nasty.
I have climbed the CMC route twice, in September 2011, and August 2013. I ended up free soloing it the second time around. It is one of the most fun routes in the tetons!
climbed CMC route, second attempt
climbed NE Ridge
Long day on the CMC route. Beautiful mountain and I especially enjoyed the unique canoe approach to the base of the climb.
Daytrip from String Lake. Huge snow. Trip report.
And again in 2012, this time from Thor. Trip report.
Climbed CMC in a day. Bivied in the canoe in Leigh Lake, then got a 3 am start. The hardest part of the day was climbing back up Drizzlepuss...scary!
07/31/2010 via CMC route with arete variation with Brain.
08/10/2015 via CMC with Elise (@roundtheworldgirl), Sam and Natasha