I did this climb nearly identically one week after you guys. It was a great trip and I hope to upload some video from it soon.
My route weaved between the gendarmes a little more and I recall discovering a few short and steep traverses on the eastern edge that required front pointing a bit.
However, it was that short summit gully that seemed the most challenging. It felt like 75 feet of 55 degree rime ice and having a second tool was definitely comforting.
I was just after whatever I could get that wasn't within the psychotic wind's grasp and could have easily missed an easier route up the summit.
Did I?
Because descending that chimney/gully was probably one of the most intense things I've done climbing - that is, it was mad freaky fun - although had I known of a different route I'm certain I would've taken it!
There was a very steep, narrow chute/chimney on its west face that I climbed. I've since realized that had I gone around to the backside/northside of the pinnacle I could have walked onto the summit. I guess that's what I get for being alone and deliriously tired, but It was an extremely fun chute nevertheless.
My buddy and chatted with you two briefly, near the sulfur vents on your way down. Very nice trip report - think I'll add the Casaval Ridge to my list of things to do!
Aaron
Thanks! I remember you both. I trust you both had a great climb as well.
ExcitableBoy - May 17, 2011 10:55 am - Hasn't voted
42 degrees
I distinctly remember one short section of neve that I guessed was 45 degrees. There was a minor rock rib on our left and the section ended at the ridge crest. Does this sound like the 'wineglass'? Kind of weird for the ranger to state such a definitive number. I would think the steepness would change based on snowfall, time of season, etc.
What you describe as "minor rock rib..." sounds like the steep part I described in my TR. If you click through on the route map link, our short, particularly steep, portion was between 11,600 and 11,800. Not the whole section, but based on time and GPS,within that section. Its where the line jogs almost horizontal towards the ridge line. I don't think what you described sounds like the wineglass. The wineglass was higher up, a little below the catwalks. The top of the wineglass doesn't open up on the ridgeline.
Also, what I referred to as the wineglass (I'm pretty sure that's how the ranger referred to it) seems to be called the "hourglass" by others. I agree with you regarding the ranger's specificity around the angle of slope, but overall his briefing was very helpful regarding what to expect. However, what he called the steepest section did not feel as steep as what we perceived to be the steepest section.
Cculd be but not sure. This picture shows the hourglass (what I was told is called the wine glass). It's right above the red x. I believe I went up the gully to the right and my partner went up the gully above the x.
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2011 11:15 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?
Above 11k, we stayed farther climber's right than any of the routes depicted. We hugged the rocky spine of the ridge crest as much as possible. I recall being able to peak my head over crest and watch the headlights on Avy Gulch. Know I know why the Wine/hourglass didn't ring a bell, I was climber's right of it.
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2011 11:18 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?
Wow, now it makes complete sense. As I was downclimbing the West Face, I went skier's left too early and met a roped party climbing up. They said they were on CR, but they were far to climber's left of my line of ascent.
We were pretty tight to the top of the ridgeline as well. We veered lower on the west side of ridgeline at around 12,800. This must be where the wineglass/hourglass is. If you look at the map link you can see our path along the ridgeline up to 12,800. Where the path angles more NE above 12,800 is where our GPS tracker cut out (we didn't traverse on the east side of the ridge).
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2011 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?
I'm having a little difficulty reconciling the photo with the route variations and the map with your actual GPS track. Would you say your GPS track (actual line of ascent) lies climber's right of the routes indicated on the map?
bajaandy - May 15, 2011 10:50 am - Voted 10/10
Nice!Great trip report. Sounds like you had an excellent climb.
jpsmyth - May 15, 2011 12:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice!It was a great climb! Thank you!
Holk - May 15, 2011 3:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Following Footsteps:I did this climb nearly identically one week after you guys. It was a great trip and I hope to upload some video from it soon.
My route weaved between the gendarmes a little more and I recall discovering a few short and steep traverses on the eastern edge that required front pointing a bit.
However, it was that short summit gully that seemed the most challenging. It felt like 75 feet of 55 degree rime ice and having a second tool was definitely comforting.
jpsmyth - May 16, 2011 2:28 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Following Footsteps:Looking forward to your video. Glad you had as good a time as we did.
ExcitableBoy - May 17, 2011 10:57 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Following Footsteps:I recall the summit gulley rime chimney/gulley, but I also recall a longer, but easier way to the summit pinnacle?
Holk - May 17, 2011 11:26 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Following Footsteps:I was just after whatever I could get that wasn't within the psychotic wind's grasp and could have easily missed an easier route up the summit.
Did I?
Because descending that chimney/gully was probably one of the most intense things I've done climbing - that is, it was mad freaky fun - although had I known of a different route I'm certain I would've taken it!
jpsmyth - May 19, 2011 6:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Following Footsteps:Where was the summit gully? Is it shown on the picture/route you posted the URL to?
Holk - May 28, 2011 9:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Following Footsteps:No, I'm referring to the summit pinnacle.
There was a very steep, narrow chute/chimney on its west face that I climbed. I've since realized that had I gone around to the backside/northside of the pinnacle I could have walked onto the summit. I guess that's what I get for being alone and deliriously tired, but It was an extremely fun chute nevertheless.
jpsmyth - May 28, 2011 11:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Following Footsteps:I guess we missed that part.
Bascuela - May 16, 2011 5:19 pm - Voted 10/10
Meet you two up top...My buddy and chatted with you two briefly, near the sulfur vents on your way down. Very nice trip report - think I'll add the Casaval Ridge to my list of things to do!
Aaron
jpsmyth - May 16, 2011 5:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Meet you two up top...Thanks! I remember you both. I trust you both had a great climb as well.
ExcitableBoy - May 17, 2011 10:55 am - Hasn't voted
42 degreesI distinctly remember one short section of neve that I guessed was 45 degrees. There was a minor rock rib on our left and the section ended at the ridge crest. Does this sound like the 'wineglass'? Kind of weird for the ranger to state such a definitive number. I would think the steepness would change based on snowfall, time of season, etc.
jpsmyth - May 17, 2011 1:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: 42 degreesWhat you describe as "minor rock rib..." sounds like the steep part I described in my TR. If you click through on the route map link, our short, particularly steep, portion was between 11,600 and 11,800. Not the whole section, but based on time and GPS,within that section. Its where the line jogs almost horizontal towards the ridge line. I don't think what you described sounds like the wineglass. The wineglass was higher up, a little below the catwalks. The top of the wineglass doesn't open up on the ridgeline.
jpsmyth - May 17, 2011 1:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: 42 degreesAlso, what I referred to as the wineglass (I'm pretty sure that's how the ranger referred to it) seems to be called the "hourglass" by others. I agree with you regarding the ranger's specificity around the angle of slope, but overall his briefing was very helpful regarding what to expect. However, what he called the steepest section did not feel as steep as what we perceived to be the steepest section.
Vitaliy M. - May 17, 2011 6:38 pm - Voted 10/10
Hourglass?http://www.summitpost.org/on-casaval/621593
Is this the spot you are talking about?
jpsmyth - May 18, 2011 12:31 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?Cculd be but not sure. This picture shows the hourglass (what I was told is called the wine glass). It's right above the red x. I believe I went up the gully to the right and my partner went up the gully above the x.
http://www.summitpost.org/casaval-routes/204288/c-155538
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2011 11:15 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?Above 11k, we stayed farther climber's right than any of the routes depicted. We hugged the rocky spine of the ridge crest as much as possible. I recall being able to peak my head over crest and watch the headlights on Avy Gulch. Know I know why the Wine/hourglass didn't ring a bell, I was climber's right of it.
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2011 11:18 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?Wow, now it makes complete sense. As I was downclimbing the West Face, I went skier's left too early and met a roped party climbing up. They said they were on CR, but they were far to climber's left of my line of ascent.
jpsmyth - May 18, 2011 12:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?We were pretty tight to the top of the ridgeline as well. We veered lower on the west side of ridgeline at around 12,800. This must be where the wineglass/hourglass is. If you look at the map link you can see our path along the ridgeline up to 12,800. Where the path angles more NE above 12,800 is where our GPS tracker cut out (we didn't traverse on the east side of the ridge).
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2011 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Hourglass?I'm having a little difficulty reconciling the photo with the route variations and the map with your actual GPS track. Would you say your GPS track (actual line of ascent) lies climber's right of the routes indicated on the map?