Roped up for glacier notch and the class 4 section. Crampons used for the class 4 section of mixed snow/rock. Tagged the summit with weather approaching. The last summit reached in my goal of climbing all the CA 14'ers. Thanks to good friends who joined me in this and previous hikes and climbs!
The third and final of my three epic unsuccessful dayhike attempts in the High Sierra during the summer of 2013(Williamson & Gardiner were the others). After success on Anna Mills two weeks prior I decided to attempt Sill as a dayhike from the backside via Bishop/Thunderbolt/Potluck Passes a few days before my 30th birthday. I ran out of gas and called it nine or ten hours into the day at about 13,500 feet, which was more or less exactly what happened on Williamson three months earlier. The fitness required just wasn't there.
Unfortunately I took a bad backwards cartwheel tumble in the talus between Potluck and Thunderbolt passes on the way back. I was very lucky to walk out on my own power. Nevertheless, I look back on this day as one of the most important days of my life for reasons I won't go into in this summit log. Some days the mountains don't give you what you want, but they give you what you need.
Long day from camp at Third Lake. Snow in the chute was sugary and the terrain was spicy. Didn't take gear, so had to downclimb!
Gaining the chute to Glacier Notch was a little tricky due to the receding glacier and rockfall. Couloir was dry...just a loose class 2 slog. The class 4 section had some snow on it, but we were able to kick steps in the snow to link the rock sections.
It seemed to take forever (13 hours) for my daughter Sam and I to get to the top from Willow Lake via Scimitar Pass. Very beautiful hike and views. We saw a water fueled landslide in progress on the way up.
A very fun and quick climb. The descent is a little spicy til you hit the top of the L-couli.
Fun climbing and awesome view. Moraine below Mt Gayley was annoying at the end of the day. Done as a really long day outing.
Fantastic route! We had to wait out some weather before starting, and during that time we scrambled up Gayley for an extra summit. Fun climb on great rock and amazing views of the Sierra!!!
Summited via SW chutes (Bishop to Knapsack to Potluck passes on the way in and Thunderbolt pass on the way out). Luckily avoided some weather blowing in from the south - those on the eastern side (Palisade glacier) ended up bearing the brunt of the storms!
Route was fantastic weather was perfect.
Great route, but rough approach through the boulder fields!
W/ Chris on descent from Polemonium
W/ Peter, Rahil & Reza
Awesome climb, bad rockfall. This low snow plus heat and rain is a bad combination this year. Managed without crampons and axe across the North base of Mt. Gayley. Started from Third Lake and wasn't too bad although I wish we would've camped at Sam Mack Meadow.
I will return for another summit bid. Made glacier notch and part way up N Couloir
Via "L couloir" and SW ridge, from Sam Mack Meadow. Some snow remaining on Apex-SW ridge section made things a bit tricky, but manageable. Great conditions on couloir and Palisade Glacier. Incredible summit views. A bit of roped downclimbing on 4th-class section on the descent. All in all an awesome objective with a good, healthy level of mountaineering challenge and 5-star scenery.
A classic route.
Great to be on top after a successful run of the Palisade Traverse with a great team. This followed an earlier summit by two weeks which began with a climb up Swiss Arete and was intended to complete the traverse but weather killed it at the U-Notch.
Swiss Arete......best views of the Sierra!
On our way to Polemonium and the traverse to Thunderbolt (which we aborted at the U-notch due to bad weather).