Mount Starr King Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 39

Deb - Jun 17, 2018 10:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2018

SE saddle  Sucess!

Pretty easy and fun even with babysitting a new climber. No problem with one 60m rope and some simple downclimbing.


Romain - Aug 31, 2017 4:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2017

SE Saddle  Sucess!

This climb was easier than I had expected and the descent with a single 60m rope is a breeze (3 rappels off excellent anchors). Full TR here.


cab - Jul 28, 2014 11:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2014

Southeast Saddle  Sucess!

Fun climb with great 360 degree views from the summit. We used two 60m ropes as suggested by many and that worked out pretty well. The existing anchors we used were solid and required no work. We only placed one nut on the first pitch and clipped an intermediate rappel anchor just above the crux. The second pitch didn't require any protection. We thought the 5.0 rating was about right.


WayneFry - Nov 11, 2013 11:08 pm Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2013

SE Saddle  Sucess!

Team of six. Perfect weather and a great friction climb. Recommend approach shoes or better. It's just a more enjoyable climb that way. We had a few folks with light hikers that struggled a bit. On the descent we used two 60m ropes and it worked great. The first rap put us back on the first belay ledge and from there it was just one more short rap to the base of the route.


mhengst - Oct 8, 2013 1:16 am Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2013

15 people up the SE face  Sucess!

Jack Kieffer and myself took a large group up the SE face route. You really need two ropes for each of the two raps.

dkangas - Oct 20, 2012 2:05 am Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2012

SE Saddle  Sucess!

Perfect summer day in October on a really fun route! It was a lot better protected than I thought it would be from reading beta. The run-out sections are not bad at all: they are short and offer lots of juicy contours. I agree with the 5.0 rating. The route is very obvious once you're on it. On the rappels, I would say this: after diligently studying the beta on how to do two rappels with a 60m rope, and feeling very confident about it, we STILL found it impossible to do! Whatever we tried, the math did not work--we ended 10 feet short of everything we tried from the top rappel anchor. We rapped down to a small ledge, about 4 inches wide and 3 feet long, where I set up an anchor for a down-lead to the rap anchor at the top of the first flake. Bottom line: Secor is right--take two ropes if you want a seamless rap with no downclimbing. Otherwise, be prepared to improvise. It took us 4 hours exactly to summit from the Mono Meadows TH.


wmolland - Oct 19, 2012 9:04 pm Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2012

East Face  Sucess!

The route was fun and not overly difficult. Might as well climb this if you're bring a rope and rack up with you.


seano - Sep 27, 2012 8:39 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2012

Up NE, down SE  Sucess!

Traversed it on the (very long) way to Clark. Fun, and not very hard, even in running shoes, if you're comfortable on slabs. Trip report.


bobpickering - Aug 20, 2012 2:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2012

SE Saddle

Solo climb from Mono Meadow TH. I stumbled onto a bees' nest while bushwhacking on the approach and got stung twice. I've soloed the SE Buttress on Cathedral Pk. and the N Ridge on Conness many times, and the friction sections on Star King seemed just as hard to me. I should have brought a partner and a rope. Overall, a nice climb. 5:48, car to car.


ElGreco - Aug 10, 2012 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012

E Face  Sucess!

With Chad. Easy 1st and 4th pitches. By no means a death trap, but some questionable rock and tricky placements on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. I will include more details on the route page. Three rappel anchors on the SE saddle. Killer summit views! Yosemite Valley and many of its formations, Lyell, Clark and Cathedral range, Sawtooth ridge and more.


mrchad9 - Aug 6, 2012 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012

East Face  Sucess!

To make it more of a climb we took the east face route up rather than the standard from the saddle. ElGreco did a great job on lead with some rock that was definitely not so great. Weather cooperated and had really nice views. Descended the SE saddle like just about everyone else.


bechtt - Jun 25, 2012 4:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2012

SE Saddle  Sucess!

Laura led the first pitch while I led the second. Simultaneously belayed Laura and Bill up that second pitch in windy conditions so I couldn't hear a thing they were yelling.


lizklevy - Jun 10, 2012 3:57 pm

Long day from Glacier Point  Sucess!

Day hiked from Glacier Point to avoid the creek. Led both pitches. It was a long day, but as usual, a great one!


Daria - Oct 22, 2011 9:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

With Mt. Clark  Sucess!

Love friction slabs-nice easy climb


asmrz - Aug 26, 2011 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2011

The East Face

Penelope May and I did this very good and very seldom climbed route for her 60th Birthday on August 10, 2011. The summit register had one previous ascent of the East Face in the last 12 years. The summit view is just magnificent, from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows to the Clark and Ritter Ranges, everywhere you look you see domes and peaks. We found this summit to be one of the most beautiful in the Sierra.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jul 29, 2011 4:19 pm Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2010

Dayhiked  Sucess!

fun day with Mark, Max, Blaise

NoSam - Oct 23, 2010 2:15 pm Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2010

SE Route  Sucess!

Matt and I day hiked from Mono Meadows. We watched the clouds all around us move in, but clear right above. We roped up and I lead first pitch. Good long day.


PellucidWombat - Oct 11, 2010 4:17 am Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2010

via NE Face (not Bob's route?)  Sucess!

Dayhiked from Happy Isles with Vitaliy, Max, & Blazin. Followed N Ridge from Panorama Trail junction over Pt. 8,574 (horrendous bushwacking!).

We decided to try Bob's NE side route. The class 3 scramble up and to a belay ledge to the right went according to plan, but we never saw the 2" crack described. Seemingly protectable cracks turned out to be seams. Apart from one where I dug out grass & dirt with my pinkie to make a cam placement, I mostly had to run it out (45 foot runouts on the 1st pitch, which seemed about 5.4-5.5, and about a 100 ft runout on the 2nd cl. 4-low 5th pitch, on sketchy pro). There was a piton at the first belay though (70m from the belay ledge - it was fortunate we brought 1 70m double rope!).

Not quite what we expected, but plenty fun! We also watched some big wall climbers on Liberty Cap from Nevada falls for about an hour, and 'bouldered' on the nice hand-fist crack, finger crack, and short fist crack at the lookout.


Misha - May 31, 2010 4:21 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2010

Early season summit (x2)  Sucess!

Climbed with Mike while Connie and Maria were suntanning on the SE Saddle. Spots of snow and runoff made for a more adventurous climb. Runouts on wet granite are always exciting! We were the first to the summit this year. Saw two bears on the way back. Stunning scenery all around


haishan - Sep 28, 2009 1:38 am Date Climbed: Oct 19, 1997

First backcountry climb  Sucess!

Day hiked from Mono Meadows, SE saddle route

Viewing: 1-20 of 39
Return to 'Mount Starr King' main page