This climb was easier than I had expected and the descent with a single 60m rope is a breeze (3 rappels off excellent anchors). Full TR here.
Fun climb with great 360 degree views from the summit. We used two 60m ropes as suggested by many and that worked out pretty well. The existing anchors we used were solid and required no work. We only placed one nut on the first pitch and clipped an intermediate rappel anchor just above the crux. The second pitch didn't require any protection. We thought the 5.0 rating was about right.
Team of six. Perfect weather and a great friction climb. Recommend approach shoes or better. It's just a more enjoyable climb that way. We had a few folks with light hikers that struggled a bit. On the descent we used two 60m ropes and it worked great. The first rap put us back on the first belay ledge and from there it was just one more short rap to the base of the route.
Jack Kieffer and myself took a large group up the SE face route. You really need two ropes for each of the two raps.
Perfect summer day in October on a really fun route! It was a lot better protected than I thought it would be from reading beta. The run-out sections are not bad at all: they are short and offer lots of juicy contours. I agree with the 5.0 rating. The route is very obvious once you're on it. On the rappels, I would say this: after diligently studying the beta on how to do two rappels with a 60m rope, and feeling very confident about it, we STILL found it impossible to do! Whatever we tried, the math did not work--we ended 10 feet short of everything we tried from the top rappel anchor. We rapped down to a small ledge, about 4 inches wide and 3 feet long, where I set up an anchor for a down-lead to the rap anchor at the top of the first flake. Bottom line: Secor is right--take two ropes if you want a seamless rap with no downclimbing. Otherwise, be prepared to improvise. It took us 4 hours exactly to summit from the Mono Meadows TH.
The route was fun and not overly difficult. Might as well climb this if you're bring a rope and rack up with you.
Traversed it on the (very long) way to Clark. Fun, and not very hard, even in running shoes, if you're comfortable on slabs. Trip report.
Solo climb from Mono Meadow TH. I stumbled onto a bees' nest while bushwhacking on the approach and got stung twice. I've soloed the SE Buttress on Cathedral Pk. and the N Ridge on Conness many times, and the friction sections on Star King seemed just as hard to me. I should have brought a partner and a rope. Overall, a nice climb. 5:48, car to car.
With Chad. Easy 1st and 4th pitches. By no means a death trap, but some questionable rock and tricky placements on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. I will include more details on the route page. Three rappel anchors on the SE saddle. Killer summit views! Yosemite Valley and many of its formations, Lyell, Clark and Cathedral range, Sawtooth ridge and more.
To make it more of a climb we took the east face route up rather than the standard from the saddle. ElGreco did a great job on lead with some rock that was definitely not so great. Weather cooperated and had really nice views. Descended the SE saddle like just about everyone else.
Laura led the first pitch while I led the second. Simultaneously belayed Laura and Bill up that second pitch in windy conditions so I couldn't hear a thing they were yelling.
Day hiked from Glacier Point to avoid the creek. Led both pitches. It was a long day, but as usual, a great one!
Love friction slabs-nice easy climb
Penelope May and I did this very good and very seldom climbed route for her 60th Birthday on August 10, 2011. The summit register had one previous ascent of the East Face in the last 12 years. The summit view is just magnificent, from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows to the Clark and Ritter Ranges, everywhere you look you see domes and peaks. We found this summit to be one of the most beautiful in the Sierra.
fun day with Mark, Max, Blaise
Matt and I day hiked from Mono Meadows. We watched the clouds all around us move in, but clear right above. We roped up and I lead first pitch. Good long day.
Dayhiked from Happy Isles with Vitaliy, Max, & Blazin. Followed N Ridge from Panorama Trail junction over Pt. 8,574 (horrendous bushwacking!).
We decided to try Bob's NE side route. The class 3 scramble up and to a belay ledge to the right went according to plan, but we never saw the 2" crack described. Seemingly protectable cracks turned out to be seams. Apart from one where I dug out grass & dirt with my pinkie to make a cam placement, I mostly had to run it out (45 foot runouts on the 1st pitch, which seemed about 5.4-5.5, and about a 100 ft runout on the 2nd cl. 4-low 5th pitch, on sketchy pro). There was a piton at the first belay though (70m from the belay ledge - it was fortunate we brought 1 70m double rope!).
Not quite what we expected, but plenty fun! We also watched some big wall climbers on Liberty Cap from Nevada falls for about an hour, and 'bouldered' on the nice hand-fist crack, finger crack, and short fist crack at the lookout.
Climbed with Mike while Connie and Maria were suntanning on the SE Saddle. Spots of snow and runoff made for a more adventurous climb. Runouts on wet granite are always exciting! We were the first to the summit this year. Saw two bears on the way back. Stunning scenery all around
Day hiked from Mono Meadows, SE saddle route
Summited alone in rain and hail when everybody else had turned around.