Did the ridge and its multiple pitches to the summit with Pro Guiding Service out of North Bend. Long and challenging day but still very fun and the exposure is exciting for hours upon hours. Would love to do this one again.
Great day in the mountains! We were planning on a three day adventure but ended up doing it in two. Could only get a permit for Saturday night. Left the car at 6am arrived at the col at 11am and setup our tent and headed over for the climb, hit the summit just before 5 pm and were back at the tent at 9:30pm. The 15.5 hour push was tiring but made for a relaxing Sunday.
It's such a striking peak that I had to do it one way or another. Thought about doing the NE ridge, but opted for the easier NW instead; the crux is steep and a bit loose, but short-ish, and it's all there. Trip report.
Car to car in just under twenty hours. We had originally planned to bivy on the ridge, but the bugs (and some cold beer at the car) drove us off. The route was very enjoyable with excellent views into the Pickets on mostly solid rock. We climbed it in three belayed pitches and three running belays. We climbed the 5.7 offwidth crack, which was easier than it looks. A single 60M rope is perfect for the descent. The rap stations are numerous and bomber. One of my favorite climbs.
Another awesome weekend in the N. Cascades. It was still midday when Jim and I arrived at the col and decided to cross the glacier. A big chunk of ice broke loose and slid just as I was about to cross it, which freaked me out. We continued up the gully and two pitches up on the ridge to a great bivy site. The setting and views were just spectacular. The ridge climb the next morning was great fun and finally we managed to simulclimb parts of the ridge in about 9 pitches. We reached the summit but the long descent was on our minds. We made it down in 5 double, 2 single rope rappels and downclimbed the knife-edge ridge to the top of the access gully. It had taken us actually less to come down than up, not bad. The hike back out was still long into the dark evening hours and the usual early morning arrival in PDX, gotta love the N. Cascades...
Deflowering the summit-log page for Triumph falls to me I see....oh well, somebody's got to do it.
Shirley and I climbed this as a Saturday/Sunday outing. Drove to TH Friday after work. Hiked in on Saturday morning in sweltering heat. The approach (after the initial saddle, ~4900') is quite pretty. The gully to the col had some painful scree but not too bad. One party was bivied in the main area at the Col. We found OK bivy sites above them on slabs. Early arrival at camp allowed for much R&R (=eating and sleeping). Plenty of snow and running water at Col. Up at dawn on Sunday. Cross glacier/snow field to reach start of climb. Went up low 5th class terrain left of the class 3+ gully. Moats are really beginning to open up. Did the route in approx. 8 or so pitches stretching our 60m ropes to 300' or 400' with some simulclimbing. Pleasant, mostly easy climbing on mostly solid rock. The climb UP goes surprisingly fast. Heather ledges were kind of spooky (would be VERY spooky if wet) with no pro (incl. pro-less belay). Great views all the way. Great summit. Descent was looooooooong (longer than the climb). A combo of single and double raps with much belayed downclimbing - all intermixed. Back at col at 5pm and hiking back by 5:45. At car by 10pm and change (had a couple minor route finding issues). Drive 2 hrs. Seep 2 hrs at rest area on I5. Seattle folk have it good. Get home by 6am. Shower. Back at work <--sucks!
PS this was actually our 2nd attempt on this route. Last year, hiked in to Thornton lks. in drizzle which was supposed to taper off....instead it started showering. Doing the Thornton Lks. trail twice is one time too many.