Fun climb and great 360 views from the top. Don't feed the friendly marmots....
a fun route, all hard spring snow. pretty steep - we measured 50 degrees at one point, the crux was a very short section of ice covering a rock band about mid way up. next traversed over to peale and down back into gold basin. down-climbing tuk's east ridge was my least favorite part. the ice crux was my favorite. PICS
Started at cross country ski lot on Geyser Pass Rd. - snowshoed into Gold Basin and then up to little Tukuhnikivatz through very deep snow. Continued along ridge to Tukuhnikivatz's summit and then back the way I came. Glissaded down a lot of the way, but it still took me nine hours roundtrip!! The climb itself was absolutely miserable with the deep powder, but Tukuhnikivatz is probably the most scenic summit I've ever been on!!
I originally planned to summit Peale, but coming from the La Sal Pass parking lot, I did not contour far enough east to find the correct couloir. I reached the ridge just west of The Razor Fang, the wrong side to be if you want to reach Peale. I thought about attempting to traverse Razor Fang, but it looked rather forbidding, considering I was hiking solo, and my Summitpost handle contains the word "Hiker," not "Climber." I decided instead to summit Tukuhnikivatz, and I was not disappointed.
Had good weather (but windy) accross the Fang, Started at the pass around 7:00 am made it to Peale and over to Tuk by 10:00 am.
Steep slopes. Scree on top, but a pleasant hike.
Great route, the sliver of snow along the ridgeline was a welcome reprieve from the killer talus and scree. It was the first named peak (2nd total) of a ridgerun that day covering 6 peaks, which included Tuk, Peale, and Mellenthin.
See trip report on Peale's page for details. Made the traverse over the Razor Fang from Mt. Peale. Fun traverse on terrible rock across The Fang.
Fun climbing on the snow when its hotter than 47 hells in the canyonlands.