This was my first technical climb and it was great! The weather was perfect, but I could have done without the swarms of flying ants at the summit. The repel was a little tricky due to some high winds, but overall it was a great trip!
Bad Weather, cold and total witheout
Lots of waiting due to 15 people ahead of us on the route. We scrambled up to a big horn at the top of the second ramp this time and belayed a very short pitch. The crux comes right out of the belay and then unprotected third class leads to the top of "the nose". I just used one large hex and a long sling for pro. From there we scrambled up to the summit and back down to the rap station unroped. I recommend taking the second ramp over the first ramp because rope drag isn't as horrendous and the climbing is shorter on more "solid" rock.
A long but easy approach with a short 5.4 summit. A nice, moderate day.
Climbed a looser variation on the first pitch and then some more solid variations on the second and third pitches. Flying ants were swarming at the summit this time.
Climbed with Chemetakans in the leadership of Steve Dougherty. Beautiful day, clear skies.
See Cornvallis's entry below. There's definitely more than one way to climb "the nose" just above the notch. I'm not sure that a standard route exists. First ramp or second ramp? Just gives me a reason to try the second ramp sometime. I placed a new register book in the summit ammo can.
Another early start for dkantola and myself. Left Salem by 3:00 AM and were on the trail by 5:30. Took the first ramp. Wow, just a bit of exposure as you climb the first chimney and find yourself hanging over the east face. No worries, David led the route well and placed solid pro (as solid as you could on this heap). Would not recommend climbing this variation unroped! Free climbed the next two pitches to the summit. Flies were overwhelming on the true summit, but 50 ft. to the north they left you alone.....king of the hill eh? Rapped the first pitch back to the notch. Don't believe the hype about the great rock on Washington, are holds supposed to move?
I found the rock not to be as solid as advertised. Many flies swarming at the summit rocks. The summit register needs a new book.
Have climbed it 3 times now. Was the first mountian I climbed....was in 2000. Scared me climbing the pinnicle the first time since it was just before sun set and the winds were high. Slept on top that trip. Second time set out to sleep on top again in early June 2002 but missed the trail up the North Ridge and ended up going up the NW Ridge and traversing to the saddle. We ran into high winds again and this time ran out of daylight. Had to bivouc down from the saddle and tie into the only tree we could find due to the steep slope. Hairy night sleep listening to the rock fall all night and not being able to see outside the clouds. Did not summit the next day due to time crunch. Thrid time summited no problem and back down in a day in late June of 2003. Glad to get to the trees by the time the lightning started. Awesome mountian. Love the adventure.
A fine summer climb --- but don't forget the DEET. We would have been dead of anemia had it not been for a friendly camper!
Washington is the best (only) volcano around that has climbable rock. Zoomed up the west ridge to a small saddle below the summit. There we broke out the rope and led about half a pitch --- that's all that was sketchy, with a nasty drop to the left. Purely positional belay since the pro was mostly weak. Nice summit --- until a storm came out of nowhere. We rapped the pinnacle, then plunge-stepped (ran?) down a NW snowface with lightning coming down all around. Exciting...
Unusually beautiful weather for late October. Got really hot slogging up the ridge to the saddle, but was nice climbing in the shade. Saw dog prints on the summit and the last entry in the register was from a solo climber and her dog!
First pitch was a perfect example of rotten volcanic rock. Beyond that everything was much more soild. Beautiful day, had the mountain to ourselves.
This was one of my first outings as a climb leader for the Ptarmigans climbing club. I lead 9 others to the top of this mountain doing a variation of the North Ridge Route. We had sunny weather except for the wind which was blowing very hard. Congrats to all the attendees of this outing for their successful summit.
November 2000 - Soloed North ridge to summit in running shoes. Downclimbed.
Also climbed North Ridge in November 2001 with my partner JZ. Had to use a rope that time - verglassed.
Also climbed the East Buttress in Summer 2002 with JZ. 5 Pitches of 5th class to 5.8 then 4th/5th scrambling for a few hundred feet to summit. Please do not try this route unless you are prepared to climb a full pitch of very loose and poorly protected 5th class.
Drove from Portland and hit trailhead at 10:40AM
Sunny day but VERY windy.
Got to the base of the summit pinnacle just in time to see another team nearing the summit on the same route. Because of a reputation of loose rock, we chose to wait until the team above returned to the notch before climbing. Hung out in sun to warm up.
Climbing team above was very, very cautious and therefore slow. By the time they rapped off and we started climbing, we had burned 2 hours of daylight and it was 4:30PM.
We belayed the first pitch and last pitch due to some less experienced climbers in our group, but this route can be easily climbed without a rope by experienced, confident climbers.
Rope is great, however, for last rappel back to notch and more fun than down climbing.
** Note on first pitch. Unless you are up for it, don't get suckered into the first left leaning ramp, as it leads to some serious exposure. The 2nd ramp, immediately above and slightly East of the 1st and most obvious gully, is much less exposed and easy to climb.
Summit views (early evening mountain shadow) were great and it was nice to find a summit register to sign.
Made it down scree descent and to the climbers trail before dark. Hiked back to the car via head lamp.
Next time will try more technical west face routes.
Wow, what a fun climb! Camped at the trailhead to the PCT and had no problem finding the climber's path. Fun scrambles up the ridge (although crappy "rock", more like graham crackers). Had some food in the little col next to the start of the technical climbing. Traversed over to the ramp on the right side and walked up to the first belay station. We went in teams of 2 to try to speed things up. Pleasantly surprised to find decent holds on the first move over the knob and then an easy scramble up to the next belay station. Carried the rope up as we scrambled. We went left of the main route up the next technical section and my friend Mark jokingly yelled down at me as he placed pro "Setting webbing over marginal rock" or "Crappy placement here" but as it turned out, he wasn't joking. But the climbing was easy enough (easy 5's) and before you know it we had scrambled onto the summit. Spent an hour there catching rays and waiting for 2 of our party that had traversed over to the west face to try to find a 5.8 chimney to do. They never showed.
We gave up waiting and downclimbed to the first belay station although I think most rap off. Long rappel from there to the col, make sure you bring a 60 meter rope. Two other climbers who showed up at the summit after us brought their 50 m. which would have left them hanging so I let them rap down on my rope. Just before I pulled the rope, our friends who had climbed the west face showed up and rapped down as well.
Turned out that one of the climbers in our party who was a friend of my friends was Sykoman who liked to climb in a Hawaiian shirt.
Descended down the scree field and back the dusty choking PCT to our cars. Awesome day.
My wife and I did this mountain as our first 'real' alpine trad experience. Took lots of unnecessary rock gear but ended up using slings ONLY. I thought that the pro I've placed (slings over horns) was pretty marginal in most cases so made an effort not to fall (not a hard thing to do since the rock is very easy). The summit was spacious and the weather was perfect (could hang out there for hours - no wind, lots of sun). From the summit we decided that it might be faster to just rappel over the 4th class stuff (starting about 50 ft below the summit). Did 3 of those up above the 'main' rappel down to the notch. It was a fun climb. Thanks to Hammer (here at SP) for the route beta.
After having climbed several long granite routes, I realize how crappy and loose the rock at Mt. Washington was when we climbed it a few years ago.
My husband, who was my boyfriend at the time, did his best to make the anchors solid. We made it to the summit and all the frustrations of getting to the top proved to be worth it. The view was spectacular and the weather was perfect.
Does anyone really know the best way to start up the base of the summit pinnacle? We traversed out left over the east face, instant exposure time. Then went up from there. Rappeling off the pimple of rock on the descent was fun too. If this is what 'solid volcanic rock' is, I think I'll avoid the loose rock. Solid alpine rock...what a joke. Still, after seeing it so many times while cragging at Smith, it was nice to summit.
This was one place my wife and I had a serious disagreement. I had a pathetic belay set up, a sling around a loose basalt column, backed up by me bracing my feet firmly on either side of the chimney. When she saw it, she cut loose a verbal barrage that was more dangerous than the loose rock. From then on, we stuck to granite for technical climbs, where anchors are of some quality.