We climbed this route taking a variation off the Northern Rib route next to Navajo Glacier at 13000' by traversing west onto a 35 degree snowfield that steepened and approached 40 degrees near our exit onto another small rock rib. Then we climbed the snow couloir west of that rock rib continuously to the notch below the saddle. This couloir gradually steepend to 52 degrees near the top. Crampons and axe were mandatory for safe climbing on the perfect snow. The scramble to the actual summit was easier than we expected and we reached the summit at 11:00 am.
There were two people on top that we followed to the first saddle west of the notch and watched them strap on their skis and make perfect turns down the north facing couloir.
We continued along the ridge to El Diente, the route taking us three hours from summit to summit. The route finding on the ridge was fairly easy, cairns marking the route under the western points that needed a downclimb on the south side. Overall an excellent climb, but probably the hardest climb I've done to date. Not recommended for climbers without experience and equipment for steep snow.
This one was a fun peak - and I thought it was easier than El Diente, but that's just me. The last 150 feet were a blast! College students aren't supposed to wake up at 4:30 in the morning.........but we did. Though it paid off because we beat the storms! Great views!
Traversed from El Diente, took somewhat less than two hours. Exposure wasn't as bad nor climbing as difficult as its reputation. There were no moves as hard or as exposed as the final ridge climb to Mt. Wilson's summit on the traverse. Still, it was a lot of fun!! Mt. Wilson's summit is the best I've been on in the San Juans!!
Erin and I finished the 14ers except for Culebra with this climb. I enjoyed the scrambling at the top -- what a fun jumble of pointy boulders!
After an awsome climb up El Diente's west ridge we had an awsome traverse to Mount Wilson. The traverse was alot of fun with some great clmbing along the way. The final approach to the summit involved some great class 4 climbing and my climbing partner and I actually went separate ways climbing different lines to the summit. We were able to glissade almost the entire way down to upper Navajo Basin. Snow was perfect for standing glissade.
Summited on traverse from El Diente. Upclimbed the rappel section on the traverse ... a rope was not necessary but could be nice.
Traversed to El Diente, then climbed Wilson Pk
Easy to ridge with a 4th class finish.
Wow...there was quite a bit of snow near the top of this mountain...so the final moves were rather difficult. The mountain looks pretty daunting from the 13,000 foot saddle near Wilson Peak...but it is not as bad as it looks...just watch out for snow on top...as that was pretty risky for me...
Finally, third time is charmed! Since I'm long on endurance but short on speed at high altitude, this time my husband and hiking buddy, Jay, and I did it in two days as a backpack to Navajo Lake. The two previous attempts had been from Silver Pick Basin, and what always stopped me was having to lose and reclimb 700' from the 13,020' saddle. It was still a long and strenuous climb, but at least the weather was on my side.