Mount Winchell Climber's Log

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Diesel - Aug 25, 2020 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2020

The freaking out hike  Sucess!

That was the theme of this hike to the summit of Mt Winchell. I woke up at 2:52 AM (so I thought, but it was actually 12:52 AM and realized it only after I got ready to go). I freaked out about hiking for 3.5 hours in the dark; what if there were bears? What do I do? - freaked out! When at Sam Mack, the entire chute/ waterfall was snow: I had spikes and ice axe, but not good enough for that steep angle. It turned out I did not need any of it since I had to climb under the snow, and that freaked me out some more (on my way back, coming down the glacier trail this time, I noticed that the part of the snow where I climbed under, had collapsed!) Took almost 6 hours from the parking lot to the summit. Thunder all around while a sunny, clear sky - freaked out some more. Toward the top, going up, I ended up in a very exposed situation, at the white rock level, and I did not like it. Very windy. While on top I was freaking out on how was I going to go down if I end up on the same path - lucky I found probably the path everyone uses. From Winchell I went to Gayley, over the glaciers. And that was a freaking experience. I just have to say, on the mountain, from afar, nothing is as it seems. This hike will never make it on my favorites list. I'm glad I did it, but that's about it. The whole thing car to Sam Mack - Winchell - Thunderbolt Glacier - Palisade Glacier - Glacier notch up - Gayley - Glacier notch down - Glacier Trail to Sam Mack to car was 23 miles and a total of time of 15:40 hours. Beat to the pulp.


Deb - Sep 28, 2016 12:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2016

East Arete  Sucess!

Great easy climb with a good friend. She and I spent night #1 in Sam Mack Mdw, then attacked East Arete the next day. Simple route-finding with terrific scrambling that only gets better. No problem with the moraine, I think it's fun. Then I ran back to my truck with 20lb pack to beat the sunset. Wonderful trip!


Romain - Jun 21, 2016 5:03 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2016

East Arête  Sucess!

Nice class 3 climb.


Fairweather - Oct 23, 2015 10:56 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1984

East Arete Day hike  Sucess!

Perfect weather, great summit.
With Kevin.


CWessels - Jul 18, 2015 6:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2015

East Arete  Sucess!

This was fun, but it seemed more like a standard class 3 chute than an arête climb (except towards the very top). Maybe I missed something?


bechtt - Apr 25, 2015 5:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2011

East Arete  Sucess!

Part of the Sierra Challenge -- with Ephrat


craig512 - Aug 2, 2013 12:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2013

Class 3?  Sucess!

Awesome climb. This is some steep class 3 and I would say borders on 4 in some parts because a rope would definitely protect a long fall down the chute. The exposure was awesome and the view on top was amazing. We opted for this because of the bad rockfall all across the palisades.


cab - Jul 15, 2013 11:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013

East Arete  Sucess!

Dayhike from Glacier Lodge. The class 3 near the summit is very solid with nice ledges. Fun climb!


Bill562 - Sep 30, 2012 11:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012

Via East Arete  Sucess!

With Barry O and Tim G, camped at Sam Mack Lake, perfect weather all weekend


soslaw - Sep 12, 2012 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2012

East Arête Variation  Sucess!

Ascended a chute on the north east side. To avoid loose rock in the chute I climbed the rock on the left side. This became class 4 and as difficulties increased I traversed left which deposited me in the correct chute at the point where one traverses left into chute 2. This was class 3 as advertised and made for a much easier down climb.


asmrz - Jan 28, 2011 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 1976

My 1st Palisades summit

Kathy Crandal and Paul Harris led LA RCS trip to the Palisades and Mt.Winchell in August of 1976 and let me come with them. We hiked up the East Arete and on the summit met Tim Ryan and John Mendenhall. This was my (humble) introduction to some well known Sierra pioneers and also my first Palisades summit climb.


ckerth - Sep 26, 2010 10:49 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2010

East Arete  Sucess!

From camp at Third Lake. About 100 feet below the summit it started to snow.


Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2009

One of my favorite climbs  Sucess!

Sierra Challenge alternate 09-hideous boulder field, but climbing the peak was lovely-very cool airy summit and palisade views.


TheNobleSunfish - Jul 19, 2010 8:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010

East Arete  Sucess!

A really fun class 3 route - mostly scrambling, but had to pull out the ice axe for a couple of snow traverses.


kraymes - May 22, 2010 6:19 pm Date Climbed: Jun 1, 1991

East Arete  Sucess!

First summit in the Palisades. Remains the standard by which I judge of Class 3 routes.


bryangast - Jan 8, 2010 12:46 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2008

Perfect  Sucess!

Great climb from Sam Mack Meadow.


96avs01 - Sep 28, 2009 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009

East Arete  Sucess!

Definitely worthy of a repeat. Great trip!


mhengst - Sep 15, 2009 12:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2009

Via East Arete  Sucess!

Climbed from our camp at Sam Mack Meadow. Crossing the moraine was a pain but once there the chute and summit were fairly straightforward. Found a bottle of Jameson and two shot glasses sitting next to the register.


boyblue - Aug 13, 2009 7:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1986

East Arete Solo  Sucess!

Great and exciting climb. One of my favorites.


seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009

East Arete  Sucess!

Alternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Fun route once you get off the moraine. Hard to spot the direct approach from Sam Mack Meadow.

Viewing: 1-20 of 43
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