Wolf Rock, 5.1-5.9

Overview

Wolf Rock, in Mansfield, Connecticut, refers to a large cliff-top boulder left behind by southern glacial movement many, many years ago. Below this boulder lies a pair of 30 to 40 foot beginner-oriented rock faces. Wolf Rock is a great place to go to hone your skills on Top-rope or easy leads. Both the blue-blazed Nipmuck Trail and the the yellow-blazed loop trail meander their way through this natural wooded area within Joshua's Land Trust.

Parking/Trailhead

The roadside parking area can be found at N41.761 W72.216567. From Rt.195, travel on Brown's Road for one mile to where Crane Hill Road forks to the left. Travel on Crane Hill Rd about 0.15 miles to the crossing of the Nipmuck Trail (blue-blazed). Follow the trail (you'll see the Wolf Rock Nature Preserve sign) on the left (south) side of the road. Continue to bear left on the trail, for approximately .25 miles, until you reach the top of the upper cliff. You will know you're there when you see Wolf Rock.

Upper Tier Climbing

The Upper Tier is mostly slabby, with some more vertical routes toward the right side. The upper section is most often top-roped, and even has an enormous fixed anchor that looks more suited to anchoring ocean liners than climbers. If you're looking for steeper climbs try the Lower Tier.

Routes

Beach Party - 5.5 - Climb the slab just right of the short, right-facing "corner."
Blanket Party - 5.6 - Climb the middle of the slab, following the hairline crack with the orange-ish water stain.
Clean Up Party - 5.4 - Climb the slab to the right of Blanket Party and to the left of the Starfire cracks.
Jokers Are Wild - 5.5 - To the right of Toe Crack, climb the face, passing the large pocket, to the overhang. Pull the overhang and continue straight up the face to the top.
Starfire - 5.1 - Climb either one of the cracks to the right of the sunny slab.
Toe Crack - 5.6 - To the right of the gully, climb the finger & hand crack on the left side of this section of cliff.

Lower Tier Climbing

The Lower Tier is more vertical and slightly overhanging in spots, most notably at a small, blocky roof at the top of the prominent right-facing corner at the left end of the cliff. Like the face above, the climbing area also extends well to the right.

Routes

Eraser Head - 5.9 - Climb the face inbetween the corner and Lil' Abner's tree. The crux is in the first few moves after that it is a 5.7.
Lil' Abner - 5.8 - Ascend the short, left-leaning crack past some horizontals to the tree at the top. Run-out easier climbing at the top.
Lurch - 5.9 - Boulder up the overhanging face on the left side of the lower tier to a stance on top of a block. Easier climbing follows.
Mossy Crack - 5.7 - Short, dirty crack on the right side of the Lower Tier
Pebble Beach - 5.2 - Climb up the right-facing corner to the roof. Traverse right under the roof and ascend the crack/chimney to the top.
Reachy - 5.8 - Ascend Face directly next ot Lil' Abner's Tree
Roof Direct - 5.9 - Climb up the right facing corner to the roof. Use the large flake and only holds on the roof buttress and boulder your way to the top (crux).
The Monkey - 5.8 - The face inbetween Reachy and the Mossy Crack.
The Whale - 5.6 - Climb the hand crack system just right of Pebble Beach and left of Lil Abner.

Weather

Images

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