Mountaineers Route in Summer

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Mountaineers Route in Summer

Mountaineers Route in Summer

Most guidebooks recommend the smaller chute to the left of the large gully in summertime (Class 2-3, but less scree). Yellow line shows that route, except for some of the switchbacks in the lower approach.
jeffrawn
on Sep 3, 2012 10:45 am
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 811149

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ChristopherFranklin

ChristopherFranklin - Apr 8, 2013 4:17 pm - Hasn't voted

left or right?

How much snow do you need to use the main chute? Would the first week of May typicaly have enough snow to use the main chute?

jeffrawn

jeffrawn - Apr 8, 2013 7:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: left or right?

First, I suggest you read these:
http://www.summitpost.org/mountaineer-s/155528
http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Report_MtWhitney_Warning.htm
And read any trip reports you can find.

Now to your question:
I have only climbed this route in August. There were still a few patches of snow that were icy in the morning. I would guess the snow is still around in May and probably getting getting refreshed occasionally. But warm days could allow it to get icy overnight.
The main point of my picture was to show the alternate summer route that avoids the scree (and occasional ice) in the northern chute.

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