Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.36000°N / 21.60000°E |
Route Type:
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Trad Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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TD+ (VI) 200m |
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Overview
One of the first "modern" climbs in Varassova, opened in May 4, 1975 by Dimitris Korres and John (...?). It is considered a classic. Moderate difficulty by modern standards, takes natural pro well, and the few bolts that replaced rusty pitons haven't change its trad style.Photo and route description at Routes.gr
Approach
A short (15') trail starting by the well under the route "Skoupa". From the top follow the signs to "Nalidonisce pfeiler" rap stations.Route Description
Pitch 1:The start is near a big block. An easy dihedral (V-)leads to a cozy ledge (20m).
Pitch 2:
A right traverse and then straight up on an easy slab for 6-7m. Another traverse to the right (V+) for 3-4m and again straight up in the dihedral (one V+ move)and easy exit to the anchors(40m).
Pitch 3:
Straight up the wall and behind the lip (VI) to a slab. WARNING: The belay to the right belongs to "Christoforos Agnoglou" VIII. Go straight into the dihedral. Exit to the left (V+) onto the small belay ledge (30m).
Pitch 4:
Right and up into another dihedral getting gradually harder (VI-, bolt), exit to the anchors (25m).
Pitch 5:
Straight up onto a slab (V) followed by an easy dihedral leading to the next belay anchor (20m) which is shared by "Christoforos Agnoglou".
Pitch 6:
Straight up into the dihedral (V), to a tree where we make a belay anchor. (25m).
Pitch 7:
Short easy climb to the large ledge above.
athpal added:
"Africana" is an aesthetics climbing route. The pitches are 6 and after the 6th pitch you have to scrambling (diff. III) if you want to reach the footpath for the abseil from another route (usually from the route "Kalidonische Pfeiler") I don't recommend this because you must know the place very well and you need about 20 min to reach the abseil anchors of "Kalidonische". I recommend to abseil down the same route. Note that the route is very well equipped at belay positions.
Also, the difficulty of the 1st pitch isn't V- but a real IV, and the key point of the route is the beginning of the 3rd pitch. Pay attention in the short left traverse just before the 3rd belay.
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Essential Gear
A full set of stoppers, ½ set of cams or hexes (medium sizes), slings, 10 draws, 2x50m ropes.Bolts at the first five belay anchors and few intermediate.