Returned with Josh to climb Easy Mox. Decided to climb the SE face from Col of the Wild instead of mess with the glacier and moat. This was a fun route, with comparatively little loose rock. Fun climb!
Peaks 1 and 3 of the Chilliwack Choke. Hard Mox was mostly class 3/4 up a loose garbage gully, followed by a pitch and a half of exposed fifth class garbage. Not 'hard' per se, just dangerous. Easy Mox was arguably a more difficult climb - a tricky moat crossing, exposed 4th class to gain the ridge, more looseness on the ridge, and a pitch of mid fifth class, also extremely loose of course.
North Ridge on NE Mox and West Face on SE Mox. NR route had a difficult moat crossing, but once on the ridge it was moderate and fun. Route finding confusion on SE Mox due to visibility. Take care to get into the correct gully on the West Face. Fun climbing once on route!
Hard Mox is like 50 Boston Peak summit endings put together plus more (I wish this was an exaggeration). While do able for the experienced, one must take great care up here. Certainly not for the faint of heart. One of our partners kept accidentally knocking off rocks and boulders, making the sounds of explosions a common thing for the day. As Matt mentioned, the crux is on the trail which is a sketchy traverse before the gully descent. There are very limited hand holds on the overhang, it's a death fall, and is a narrow down sloping traverse. Did I mention that it's loose? Ball baring rock over a bit of exposure awaits you after this. Fortunately both of these can be thoughtfully handled.
The main theme is for each move that you make, much care and some thought should be put into them. Breaks may have to be made to compose yourself and rest your mind. ;-) The summit ending looks scarier than it actually is.
Led the route with Josh and John. Having two ropes made them able to climb up at the same time. Would have been much safer to just solo!
That step across just before the descent down the gully after crossing the ROG was scary as hell. Had the entire Chilliwack region to ourselves.
The first part of a semi-long and enjoyable day up Depot Creek, along with Redoubt. The north ridge of Easy Mox was easy. Downclimbing its west face to the saddle between the Moxes (Moxen?) was rotten and scary. Someone had added plenty of cairns to the first part of the Hard Mox route. I thought the crux was awkward and exposed, but probably no more than 5.2-ish. Trip report.