Mt Aetna

Grand couloir lived up to its reputation – just under 3000 vertical feet of continuous snow to the top at 13,700', great workout! After starring at the route up Mt. Aetna from the ski lifts at Monarch this season, we couldn’t resist giving it a try. We found great snow conditions (overnight freeze, hard am snow for climbing) with a mild softening to corn snow by the time we were headed down.

We car-camped on the road as far in as I thought to drive my jeep (N38.55666 W106.30184 at 10,094’) in without getting it stuck. We got up at 4 am for a breakfast (including Subway sandwhich from Saturday for me) to start out 5:15. Follow forest road 230 in to the base of the couloir (there will probably be tracks to the Lost Wonder cabin, which is ¼ mile beyond the couloir base). There are several forks off from FR230 that I have marked on the map. We arrived at the base of the couloirs at 6:15, at sunrise. We packed snowshoes and poles and cached them before crossing over to the west side of the couloir. I put on crampons shortly after crossing to the west side of the couloir. Follow the couloir to its top (we arrived at 10:15), then proceed along the short ridge to the summit. 

The weather started to deteriorate early, so we left the summit at 11:15 am. We glissaded much of the way down, to be repacked at the base at 12:45 pm (maybe 30 minute down-climb to SECTN3, then 20 minute glissade). Groppel, lightning, and thunder all started just as we reached the base. Nice to have the climbing helmets, because some of the pellets were ¼” size! In retrospect, snowshoes were not absolutely required, but were nice to have in the afternoon for the 1st mile (the turn off to Boss lake at Fork3). There was close to continuous coverage between the base and Fork3, below which one owner had been driving up to his place using a 4-wheeler. We got back to the jeep at 1:45 pm.

It seems like the prime climbing season for Grand couloir is typically mid-April through mid-May. It is south facing so its season is relatively early, fortunately its known to get good coverage most years. It's not particularly steep (typically 30-40 degrees in the top segments), which also makes it helpful for those getting started with the climbing (or couloir skiing) season. With 3000 vertical feet, is a good one for those training for international trips to higher places.