Ryan, TJ, Scotty, and I headed out to Baker Lake and started the approach. We ran into a Ranger one mile below the saddle into the NP and he informed us that we needed a permit to sleep on the glacier. CRAP! So this forced us to sleep just outside the NP boundary and start even earlier in the morning. We found a nice bivy site above a log and enjoyed the most fantastic moonrise spectacle.
We set the alarm for 1 am, thanks a lot Ranger!
Climb and out
we started moving fairly quickly in the morning. Scotty an TJ brought their split boards and were moving very slowly on the icy slopes. Ryan and I were dominating them up the glacier with just the crampons. We navigated the glacier by moonlight and could see reflections of the moon on puget sound to the SW. Eventually scotty and TJ (Brothers btw) dropped their boards and continued by foot. We all met up at the top of the glacier and were rewarded with one of the best views of Baker I've yet to see.
From there we continued up to the summit block and followed the little snow remaining up to the top. We had to cross two rocky sections before dropping our pons and gear for the final rock climb/scramble to the top.
Once at the top we chilled for 15 minutes or so until Ryan's nerves started getting to him and he needed to head back down.
Our route down was the same except for a rappel above the spot in the image above. At the top of the rappel scotty tripped on his crampon and nearly fell over the edge! Sketchy however he claims he did not think he was going over the edge, fortunately we did not have to find out!
We got some great glissading in while heading down the massive snow/glacier fields and Scotty and TJ got a couple of really bad turns in with their boards. If you look closely in this photo there are two dark specs on this hill - scotty and TJ strapping their boards on.
We made it all the way out by 2 pm or so, just enough time for me to make it back to bham and go to work for 3 hours at the local Baseball stadium where i work the scoreboard. Baseball is sooo boring when you're tired.
And to Finish it off, here is a photo of Tj, the weirdest mountain man you've ever met
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