Loved the glaciers
I'd wanted to climb Stanley ever since I first read about it here on Summitpost, when I first joined way back in 2004. We did 8 days round trip from Kilembe, making the summit on day 6 in bad weather, lots of new snow on our way up. It rained most days, but usually it was pretty light. The scenery is amazing, the whole experience was very unique...
Amazing day! 10 hrs door to door and then hikes down to Kitandara (3 more hrs). Incredibly satisfying.
I spent five days climbing the Rwenzori mountains from Mutsora (Mutwanga) in DRC. Currently there is very little tourist impact although a park infrastructure exists including a nice base camp, alpine hut system and easy system for arranging guides and porters. Typically a summit bid requires at least 7 days, I comfortably made the trip in 5 without prior acclimation. I saw wild monkeys, many birds and evidence of wild leopard. But the best feature of the mountain, besides heavily crevassed glaciers at the equator was the vegetation in the mid altitude forest - very unique.
From DRC, the approach passes Kyandolire ranger station and park entrance, then Kalonge hut which I skipped. I stayed the first night at Mahangu hut. The second night at Kiondo hut at 3310m. On the third day I passed the high camp, Moraine hut, and summited Alexandra and Margherita Peak, then bivied on the descent. Fourth day return to Mahangu hut and fifth day return to 'civilization'.
Amazing weather and 1000km views from the top of Margherita. The approach through bogs, bamboo forests and the groves of lobelia and senecia trees was equally amazing. Only wish I had got in Alexandra and Albert, too.
Normal route of Stanley climbed on 2ndof january 2011, good conditions, but access to the saddle between alexandra and margerita now implies descending on ladders from the stanley plateau (fixed ropes usually in place, but more time is needed than before, I climbed it with many stops in 5.35 from elena hut.
Mind the crevasses especially on the margerita glacier.
I had climbed nearby Mount Speke (vitorrio Emmanuelle) on a previous climb in august 2007, but wasn't successful on Stanley in those days).
A wonderful climb in pristine nature. It's quite advisable to go on to Albert peak from margerita if weather is fine and stable (apporx one hour back and forth)
Elena Hut - Stanley Plateau - Margherita Glacier - Margherita Peak. Solid cloud cover but the summit was free from mist until noon. No problems on the way, decent views to surrounding peaks and comparatively good weather. For more versatile climbing I'd recommend Mt. Speke (close by) though.
Climbed via Stanley Plateau and Margherita Glacier. Bergschrund issues accessing the latter. Some crevasses. Fixed rope and a ladder (!) on the final rock peak. Guides are compulsory but ours at least were liabilities when it came to rope work on summit day, and we'd have been far happier if they'd stayed in the hut. They know the mountain paths very well, but don't trust them to lead you up the climbing section safely. We had to take charge while they bumbled around dangerously, which was a weird situation. Most amazing mountain range in Africa, but don't forget your gaiters, wellies or an expendable pair of trainers for the bogs.
Brilliant adventure with my friends Romke, Ali, Schock & Colie. Beautiful hike, wonderful climb on one of the last glaciers close to the equator. We were the first team employing female porters and guide. See more news about the special project to support the local community here at the Climb High Foundation website.